Here is a list of all the postings bodge has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Repairing iron pulley wheel damage |
21/01/2017 23:38:26 |
Have done similar repairs to cast iron using mig , i would not of bothered trying to weld the broken bit in though just clean the edge up to bright finish with a dremel type grinder, with the bigger dink start weld at both ends and finish weld in the middle, dont try to do it all in one hit let it cool a bit to black heat then go again Same with smaller bit though i think a start a each end would pretty well get to the middle. then just fill in the middle bit , again do a bit and let it cool black heat, keep the process going till you have enough weld on to effect the repair. profile to shape with files , might get the odd hard spot about the size of a match head, take care of it with dremel type grinder The Mig machine i use has 7 steps on transformer , have found no 4 about the best, just using standard mig steel wire 0.6mm............................b In cold weather a bit of pre heat helps it does not need to be much hand hot is good enough just so long as its not stone cold.............b Edited By bodge on 21/01/2017 23:45:11 edit for typos........b Edited By bodge on 21/01/2017 23:51:59 |
Thread: missing lathe parts on a drummond lathe? ID please |
06/01/2017 20:37:22 |
Phil The oil buttons are not for use with a grease gun , just a standard oil can is fine, depress the ball with the spout of the oil can then squirt When the bearing are removed from the head stock you will see the head stock bearing holders are hollowed out forming an oil reservoir , if you take a look at pics of the bearings you posted on the right hand in pic you will see it has small hole drilled in the lower part of the bearing opposite to the hole in the top of bearing you can also see a shallow trough on the inside of the bearing that dos not quite extend to outer edges of the bearing, I have one of these lathes & the oilers work just fine ! As for correct oil something like 30 w will be ok or the same oil you use in your car ,that is all i am using semi synthetic about 10 - 30 w seems to cling to the bearing & spindle nicely, i use the same oil other machine too,no problems, As for counter shaft follow Keith"s link, the correct size of chuck for this lathe would be 3 inch for the 3 jaw & 4 inch for a 4 jaw independent............b Over size chuck is one of the quickest ways to kill the bearings. edit for typo................b Edited By bodge on 06/01/2017 20:40:40 |
Thread: Cheap but decent Mini Tape Measure |
05/01/2017 20:21:48 |
Then there is the decimetre, Should have made it part of conditions = 25 mm to 1 inch, try buying a 6 inch rule marked decimal inch on more than one edge..........b Edited By bodge on 05/01/2017 20:27:48 |
Thread: Which is best single phase motor - 2 pole or 4 pole |
04/01/2017 18:02:36 |
Posted by Michael Briggs on 04/01/2017 10:10:31:
I am sure there will be other members on the forum that can throw more (accurate) light on this than I can. I suspected that a two pole motor would be noisier than a four pole, looking in an ABB publication they are quite a lot noisier though given the racket my Clarke compressor makes, you probably would not be able to tell the difference. Regards, Michael. Hi Micheal I think the perceived difference in noise between 2 pole & 4 pole is more to do with pitch rather than db , made all the worse by having the the pump head & motor bolted to the receiver which amplifies things a bit, in my case i knew that was going to be a problem so i had flexible hose made up at the local hydraulic works about 2 metre long so i could remote mount pump & motor from the receiver , really quietens things down.........b edit for typo error........b Edited By bodge on 04/01/2017 18:08:48 |
04/01/2017 17:29:44 |
John many thanks for the info , not too sure how to use the tech data though, it seems like they are saying ,at 4 bar = 107 litres free air per minute, . at 7 bar = 76 l / per minute I take it thats how you are reading it too ? or i have i missed something ? I take it you are planning on using it for plasma arc cutting on the Tig machine, watched a few you tube vids a week or so ago but didnt take notice of the compressor size, was to busy looking at how the plasma cutting went , Knew someone a few years ago, had the same type of m/c but with smaller 25 l air tank he had no problems with it at all though he was only running an air nail tacker for upholstery work .. I suspect it will depend on the cleanest cut you can get for the minimal amount of air pressure.. hope it works out OK...............b
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04/01/2017 11:29:56 |
Posted by Ajohnw on 04/01/2017 09:34:53:
I looked around at compressors before buying the Einhell one and asked why 2,800rpm motors. Not sure he said but think it's due to the stop start running. I wonder if it was just cost. Seems not. If I do finish up putting another pump on the Einhell I would have been inclined to fit 4 pole. John One other reason i can think of is with over frame cooling on the motor one gets more air flow to cool the motor with 2800 rpm, just a thought.! , though it tie in with the stop / start running nature of compressors I had a look on line for Einhell compressors but could only find small ones, any chance of a pointer where to look and what model to look for similar to the one you have.? .......................b |
04/01/2017 00:25:54 |
Hi John Well it makes for an interesting foot note. Also clears up for me on how i come to be thinking 3 HP 2 pole faired a little better, ( which i forgot to state is cap start & cap run on the compressor i have here ) its along time ago since i bought it about 20 years ago, I did look into it a bit at the time, and it goes some way to explain why the vendors go for 2 pole 3 HP rather than 4 pole it would probably blows most 13 amp fuses , as would think the ones that dont blow must be very close to the limit......so thanks for the info......................b |
03/01/2017 22:32:06 |
Posted by Nick_G on 03/01/2017 18:09:39:
Posted by Ajohnw on 03/01/2017 18:00:28:
It's left me wondering if other than cost one type has other advantages over the other.
- . One runs at about 1400 rpm the other at about 2800 rpm Different uses require different requirements for end application. Nick Yes i should think that just about sums it up . As John says "would avoid 2 pole motors like the plague" me too, but they have there uses......b |
03/01/2017 21:57:21 |
Posted by Ajohnw on 03/01/2017 20:18:15:
That;s what struck me about 3hp bodge, A lot used to reckon that a 3hp lathe motor couldn't be run on a 3 pin plug. I did have one. Some one had fitted a 3hp to it so that he could turn certain tool steels. It was a Viceroy. I'd guess that the belt drive just wouldn't transmit that much really. It didn't blow fuses though even though the full load current draw is usually about 13 amps so start up could be a lot higher. I do wonder if one of 2 pole or 4 pole is more efficient or a different starting torque characteristic etc. I suspect it's just min cost. Many have a large pulley on the pump. Why not make it smaller as it would be cheaper. Leaving it the same size and increasing the other would cost more. The size of the big pulley might be needed to give the power transmission that's needed. John -
Going from memory on m/c i have the motor pulleys is about 4 inch dia, & the driven pulley a good 12 inch dia , the spokes on the big pulley are fan blade shaped to get a bit of air blast over the cylinders so 2800 rpm is going to be better than 1400 rpm in that respect. though of course the big pulley is not doing 2800 rpm It looks like just your average compressor as sold by Clarkes / machine mart , though i bought it from a company that went by the name SIP years ago, ..3 hp = about 2.2 KW there are quite a few house hold appliances that draw that these days so i dont really see any problem with using a 3HP motor . Clarks and co must of sold hundreds of them over the years! Have seen some real old compressors that where really slow running , but with compressors its all about how much free air cubic feet per minute , which with a 3 HP motor is usually around 14 CFM i agree that a 2 pole motor is going to be cheaper to make than a 4 or 6 pole motor but i still got a nagging idea it may be a bit more efficient but i dont know enough about electric motors to be sure about that ,...not much help really , well got to go put the kettle on that draws 2 Kw, thirsty work typing............b Edited By bodge on 03/01/2017 22:01:37 |
03/01/2017 20:47:52 |
Posted by Nick_G on 03/01/2017 19:21:14:
Posted by Ajohnw on 03/01/2017 18:52:03:
A look round youtube shows just how disgusting the innards of some compressors are.
John - . That is mostly due to many people putting them under the bench and forgetting about them until they start rattling or chuck their conrod through the casing. I have a cheap (presumably far east) JCB branded one. I have seen the same model with lots of different badges on. - After a guesstimated 1 hour running I dropped the oil and replace it with a known quality product. Then did the same after a few additional hours. I was quite surprised how little oil the sump holds. i.e. a little has to do a lot, so it's little wonder they complain if they are forgotten. Nick I guess you must be talking about mine then !........lives outside under the bench Though it does get a pretty through inspection before use ,drain cocks left open when not in use only had it twenty years ! Change the oil often works just fine. Not sure where it was made, Italy for the pump , UK for motor & receiver ..............b Having said that i have seen some real rough ones receivers more full of muddy water than air,..... |
03/01/2017 20:17:08 |
Posted by John Stevenson on 03/01/2017 19:57:17:
The 'good' ones are probably made by China Nail and Silk Flower Factory You may well be right at that, but not joshing or any thing, not all fuses are the same , tried it on a couple things that are a bit thirsty on the sparks an sure enough same thing happens one brand will blow other brand dont !........b |
03/01/2017 19:45:30 |
Hi John I may well have this wrong but if one used 1428 rpm motor one would only get half the free air per minute compared to 2800 rpm unless one plays around with pulley sizes , a 1428 motor is slowing itself down in effect, so am thinking 2800 more efficient ? What i can tell you though is not all 13 amp fuses are the same , as some one who runs a 3 hp compressor on a standard 13 amp square pin plug / socket , one particular brand of fuse will blow as quick as you can change them, and another brand will last ages It took awhile for me to figure that one out......i cant remember where i bought the good fuses other than to say at one of the local supermarkets but you can tell the difference by looking at them once you have both types.........b |
Thread: Metal cutting bandsaw |
03/01/2017 18:52:36 |
Posted by Ajohnw on 03/01/2017 17:35:08:
I'm pretty sure mine is powered by a 1400rpm cap start motor as I can hear the click. Low torque start so maybe no run capacitor. It has proved to be an excellent purchase. Bought not long after they appeared from Grahame Engineering in West Brom. I think i might inclined to put that down to a sign of the times, things just aint done how they used to be !........i am pretty sure mine dont click, will try it over the next day or so with belt off ,and no load , see if it clicks or not, it would seem to be a much latter m/c as it is fitted with NVR, ...though it would be fair to say it does do what its supposed to do , and as you say an overall excellent purchase Note for Neil............Warco market a smaller one as the CY 90 which i think is the same the small Chester , but Chester got the edge for price Have got Mike Cox original article some where but may take a bit of finding, mods i made were pretty similar though .............b
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03/01/2017 16:06:05 |
Hi Tom I bought a Clarke / Machine-mart variant couple years back , works Ok,...Though i think the Warco one is better priced and has a bit bigger motor fitted to it, One the worst aspects of the clarke is the belt tension adjustment is not as good as it could be ( have not got around to doing anything about it as yet, other than cutting a couple of hard wood wedges to apply pressure between the gear box & the motor casing ), ..the tension bolt is not really in the right / ideal place.... will do some thing about some when , needs a better motor carrier plate / frame making . I did think the stand was a bit flimsy , so cut four bit of angle iron so as to make a frame to stand the stand in , then drilled two 6.5mm holes through the end pieces of angle and the tin ends of the stand, and secuerd it with 6 mm bolt each end, which firmed it all up, and put some better wheels on As for the tin table supplied, i didnt even bother ! ..that was very first mod, made a small sub plate out a bit 6 x 4 x 3/8 inches ms then used 1/4 inch thick ally plate 11 x 12 inches bolted to the sub plate using 8 mm c/s allan screws The one thing i would change , would be to fit braked casters to the corners of the angle iron frame , as its still a bit of a pig to move easily using just two wheels at the heavy end. though a trailer type jockey wheel might be an option ! I think the motors used on these m/c are just the standard type capacitor run type ,ie the capacitor is permanently in circuit , not the type that has c/f switch fitted internally so not cap start / cap run. Beats the hell out hack sawing.....................b Saw a bit on you tube where the chap was hard soldering blades, might be worth a look if any ones interested ........
Edited By bodge on 03/01/2017 16:24:22 |
Thread: missing lathe parts on a drummond lathe? ID please |
01/01/2017 14:37:21 |
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 01/01/2017 14:28:34:
Just in case it isn't obvious, never run it without oiling the bearings first. Fitting a pair of oilers instead of the nipples would be a good upgrade. Neil There are reservoirs formed in the head stock casting , might not be such a good idea unless one likes mopping up excess oil , more than any thing it needs a counter shaft ..............b It probably a bit late , i get the idea by the pics of the bearings it might be in need of new ones Needs counter shaft and size smaller chuck ..........b Edited By bodge on 01/01/2017 14:50:06 |
01/01/2017 12:58:24 |
Posted by Hopper on 01/01/2017 12:17:02:
I can't see in the pics but I think those two screws sticking up on the top of teh headstock casting, one at each bearing, should have a small hole drilled down the middle of it to allow you to oil the bearings with an oil can as you work. Many owners solder on fittings to each screw to allow a drip feed sight oiler to be fitted, a la later Myfrods. They are the original push point type oilers There was some post on here last year on similar lathe might be worth a look in the archive........b |
Thread: Myford change wheels |
31/12/2016 18:26:19 |
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 31/12/2016 16:34:43:
I found 0.004 over 12" for precision ballscrews and 0.0005 over 12" (one in 24,000) for "precision plus" so 63T may fall down for the highest precision uses (the data was from Thompson Illinois - interesting that the Myford leadscrew of the 40s is better than a 'precision rolled ballscrew' of the 2010s!) Neil Well that is a bit of a surprise ! A quick scan of the book case i found a piece on Drummonds circa 1919 quote pitch error for commercial lead screws.... " now never exceed an error of 0.001 inch in any inch of pitch , or 0.003 inch in any foot of length, either in progressive pitch or periodic error " the periodic error, it should be explained, is departure from theoretical helical form and occurs at each revolution of the screw; progressive error, invariably minus in character ,is the variation from true pitch length..........info from " Machine Tool Adjustment " ---ISBN 1-55918-218-0 The myford lathe referred to was the 4 inch precision , which i suspect myford got from Drummond on a plate along with every thing else that Drummond were ask to hand over to myford The 4 inch looks like a Drummond than a myford , even more so when you see one with a full 11 inch cross with the tee slots running the length of the slide rather than across the width,.............b Tried posting a pic but its not having it ...bloody computers!!! Edited By bodge on 31/12/2016 18:56:03 |
Thread: Single point threadform tools? |
31/12/2016 16:18:13 |
Posted by John Stevenson on 31/12/2016 08:42:16:
Industry doesn't use Coventry die heads any more. 20,000 video's on You Tube of all types of machining operations, show me a CNC with a die head in the turret. ?
The only people selling die head chasers are small concerns selling to the jobbing shops and repair industries, not manufacturing. Look in any of the big catalogues of cutting tools as sold to industry and you won't find die heads or inserts listed because fact is there is no demand.
How industry worked in the 60's and 70's has no relevant on how t works today I missed this one , who said any thing about using a cnc with a die head ? how about you show me where i made a statement saying that .............b or to that effect ? this really isnt going any where Edited By bodge on 31/12/2016 16:25:38 |
Thread: Myford change wheels |
31/12/2016 13:16:37 |
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 31/12/2016 12:42:59:
Interesting, 0.0005 over 1" is 1 part in 2,000 and 0.0015 over 12" is 1 part in 8,000, both worse than the 63-tooth metric solution, confirming it is perfectly good for 'normal' lathes. Neil I expect myford thought that was pretty good for a cut square thread at the time , what with the war going on an all, i would hope rolled acme thread would fare better these days I think its down to operator ability as much as anything, which ever way one goes about it ( 63 or 127 ) for a one off its pretty much a bespoke item............b |
31/12/2016 11:30:07 |
Myford did offer an improved accuracy pitch screw for one lathe they made in the early forties Stated as 0.0005 in 1 inch, 0.0008 in 3 inch, 0.0015 in 12 inches...............b according to www lathes ,co Edited By bodge on 31/12/2016 11:32:31 |
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