Member postings for David Brown 9

I have just signed up and downloaded the program. I tried logging in using the password I set up, it says the password is wrong. When I try to change the password using my e-mail address or user name it says'The e-mail address or user name is not associated with an Autodesk account'.' When I try to downlload the program again I am told I already have it. Should I have received a confirmation e-mail-I have not been sent one?

Not sure what I have done wrong or how to solve the problem!

David

Thanks a lot. I thought it would be obvious!

It is the socket heads, I tried tightening them before, I just wasn't tightening them enough. Now both axis lock. The Y is indeed a pain to reach!

David

I cannot figure out how to lock the x and y axis on my Sieg SX2P mini mill from Arceurotrade.

Does anyone have this machine who could let me know how to do this?

I am sure it is obvious, but the design seems a little different to some other Sieg SX2 mini mills and so googling hasn't helped so far.

David

Thanks for the advice. Hopefully I will mill the flange over the Christmas holidays. I will write again when it is finished. I am slowly getting the hang of using the milling machine, (as long as it is nothing too complicated!).

David

Thanks for all the advice. I should have realised that I can mill the sides square. In which case I don't need a rotary table to do this. On the other hand I think I may need a rotary table for something else,

I will hopefully get this done over the Christmas holidays. Most probably I will cut keyways in the shaft and flange to secure the shaft better. I will write again when (if!) I get the flange finished,

David

I need to make something very roughly like this, except this is a picture of a bearing not a flange, but it is approximately the right shape.

A 11/2 inch steel shaft will fit inside the flange, secured by set screws. The flange will then be bolted to a 15 inches diameter wooden pulley.

David

It is 83mm diameter aluminium round bar, T6.

David

What is the best way of holding something on a rotary table (I haven't got the rotary table yet!).

I need to mill the outside diameter of 83mm diameter aluminium round bar to make a flange. What is the best way to hold this, do I need to buy a chuck?

David

Edited By David Brown 9 on 12/12/2015 08:28:23

I don't have a lathe, so I can't turn it. Could I use an end mill in the boring head? Even if I could I have understood that this is too much for a boring head on the mini mill. I will get a rotary table. I wanted one anyway!

David

I need to bore an outside diameter on a 83mm diameter aluminium round bar. This is to make a flange, the part I cut has to be large enough so I can fit bolts arround the outside of the flange, probably m8 bolts.

I can cut the hole in the center of the flange using a 2 inch boring head. I have a Sieg SX2 mini mill. But is it possible to cut the outside diameter with this, or do I need a rotary table?

Also, to do this I have read that you need a reverse, which I don't have. Why is this?

David

I found an American site, Mini mill.com, which says that a 6 inch rotary table will fit, although it is a bit big. They say that a 5 inch table would be good, but they don't seem to exist!

I am not sure what I would use one for. Except I need to mill a flange from some 83mm diameter alumium round bar and it may be useful for this. Although I have a boring head and bar I could posssibly use these instead?

However, having used a boring bar once I got the impression that to remove quite a lot of material with one will take a long time! Using an end mill and rotary table seems likley to be quicker?

I guess I thought a 6 inch would be good as I could fit bigger things on to it, if neccessary.

David

I am thinking of getting a rotary table for rmy Sieg SX2P mini milling machine . It's table is 40 cm long and 14.5 cm wide, just under 16 inches long and 5.7 inches wide.

Will a 6 inch rotary table fit on the mill, including enough room under the spindle, or should I get a 4 inch rotary table?

David

So I tried again with some cutting oil and turned off the pendulum action and it worked fine! Thanks for all the advice.

It cuts straighter now. It still isn't cutting totally straight but I have understood that this is probably not possible with a jigsaw. It is straight enough that I can easily use my mini mill to get it really straight if I need to. I cut it free hand.

I will try sometime using a thick length of bar as a guide, Using a straight edge does not work well as it is not thick enough, or I guess I could just try a straight piece of wood.

I would have got a metal cutting band saw but don't have enough space. Unless I have a really thick peice of metal this jigsaw will do fine.

David

I have not been using cutting oil I will try this next. The blades seem to be jamming, maybe cutting oil will help?

What cutter is best for aluminium on a mini mill (I have the Sieg SX2)? I need to remove around 2-3mm from the edge to get it straight, the sheet is around 70cm long and 17cm wide. Also, what is the best way to hold this on the milling machine?

David

I have bought a Bosch GST 25 metal cutting jigsaw. I wanted to cut 6mm thick 6082 aluminium.

The jigsaw comes with special blades for cutting alumium. I have managed to destroy 3 aluminium cutting blades and 3 ordinary metal blades. I only managed to cut the aluminium with extreme difficulty and the cut is not straight. I can probably clean it up on my mini mill.

Does anyone have this jigsaw and have any idea what I am doing wrong?

At first I thought I was not fitting the jig saw blade properly, but having changed blades a number of times I am pretty sure I am doing this right. The instructions are useless.

David

Thanks for the advice. All I had to do was push the base of the lever on the DTI reasonably hard and it moved further out! It should now touch the outside of the pulley bore.

I guess it should have been obvious, although it would be nice if these things came with instructions! I watched a lot of videos on youtube and none explained this simple thing!

Next weekend I will have my first try at using a boring head and boring bar.

David

I have bought a boring head and boring bar set to use on my Sieg SX2 mini mill. I need to bore out the bore of a pullet from 19mm to 20mm to fit a 20mm shaft.

I need to find the center of the pulley bore on the milling machine so that the boring bar is centered in the hole, in the milling machine spindle.

I have a coaxial centre locating indicator, but firstly there is not enough room on my mini mill to fit the probes which will reach to the edge of the pulley bore, only the smallest probe will fit and this does not reach the edge of the bore. Secondly this is designed to work with the spindle turning under power and the key slot in the pulley bore is likely to catch and break it.

I I have a dial test indicator which fits in the spindle but the indicator only has 0.8mm of movement and again does not touch the edge of the bore when centered.

I think I need a wiggler with an attachment for a dial test indicator, to which I can fit the indicator at an angle so that it touches the side of the bore. I can then turn the spindle by hand and adjust the x y tables until the bore is centered.

Is this correct? If so where could I buy this?

I do not have DRO.

David

I need some steel for a 35mm pulley shaft (and also a 20mm one). The 35mm shaft will support a load of around 25kg, rotating at around 40rpm. Proably around 100cm long. I am going to use pillow block bearings. What steel should I get? I was advised to get precision ground mild steel for this shaft.

Metal Supermarkets have 'engineering steel' precision ground bar, EN8, EN 16 and EN24. Also 4130 and 4140 (just round bar).

Also 'bright steel' EN3A. EN3A (leaded), EN3B, EN8,EN24, EN16, EN19.

I am confused, which one would be best?The 20mm I will need to machine, the 35mm shaft I possibly may need to, I have a mini-mill.

David

I will have to think about this, however given the 3 times price difference and that I need 4 bearings it is tempting to go for the cheaper option!

I don't suppose anyone knows anywhere in London (an actual shop/store open to the public) that sells pillow block bearings? I realise this is unlikely-I wouldn't imagine many individuals as opposed to companies would want to buy them. Everything seems to be on line these days- I guess given the rent in London especially this is hardly surprising!

David

Sorry, to make it more complicated I have now noticed that Metal Supermarket have 'engineering steel' precision ground bar EN8, EN16 and EN24 would one of these be better for the 35mm shaft?

David