Member postings for Ian L2

Guys,

Maybe not quite the right section but this is related to rust removal.

I am very very pleased with the results from a quick (24 hour) dip of my 40 year old Rob Roy frames in brick cleaner.

The pictures don't really do it justice but they came out of the bath completely free from the rust shown in the first picture and not much pitting. The 'staining' around the main horns in the third picture simply wiped off.

A quick clean with rough emery cloth and they were virtually perfect.

I just need a dimensional check (I was 15 when I made them), a few more holes, Ill true up the horn slots in the miller and some new horns (I lost 2 out of 6 during the removal process).

Thanks chaps. That saved me just one or two hours hacking out new frames and its nice to be making use of the originals.

Phil H

I would just use a three jaw on the chuck register with some brass shim to protect the latter and the spindle supported close to the threaded portion with a fixed steady.

Ian, did you see the sectional drawing I posted in your other thread?

Russell.

Yes I have seen the dwg thanks Russell. Once I know what getting the spindle usable again is going to cost then I can concenterate on bearings. as the bearing problem int a problem if I dont have good spindle. and if I have to purchase second hand spindle might be lucky ang get bearings from same source at same time.

If you have enough wall thickness to turn off the thread and fit a sleeve then you should definately have enough to just skim off the thread, recut a smaller dia one and make up a new adjusting ring to fit that thread

As for holding it in teh lateh assuming the spindle has a MT taper then hold a blank in the 4-jaw taper poking out , push the spindle onto this and support the other end with a fixed steady while you turn down the end.

That made me think a little but think i know what you mean. Will the MT hold it tight enough so as to not spin while cutting a thread. I would have to get this done out as mi lathe is in bits this being one of them .

Ian, you have a personal message

Lidl Aldi etc sell a sonic bath cleaner for 20 quid btw. May be worth looking out for one

Edited By Ady1 on 14/12/2014 12:01:27

Can't help you with a shop for steel. However I think you may be heading for a problem.... Heating the hardened part up to shrink fit it is likely to anneal, or at least soften the part. I would suggest that you consider loctite, if you use the right grade and do it i.a.w. instructions it will not come off....

best of luck

cheers

Bill

Wondered about that but it would not be getting much more than domestic oven hot so thought it would not soften it much.

Hi Ian, you mean like this;

This is the most common arrangement for pre-loaded taper roller bearings to eliminate any backlash. the idea is that it retains a constant bearing load throughout a wide temperature range. All bearings rise in temperature during use and expand, this arrangement will have the heat generated in the bearing transferred into the spindle and as this expands, the inner race moves away from the outer race and the corresponding expansion of the rollers fills up the gap keeping the load fairly constant. meanwhile the heat generated dissipates to atmosphere through the spindle and the bearing housing. All a matter of good and careful design.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 13/12/2014 20:55:04

Yep the RH cone is up against flange and the LH cone is supposed to be tight but sliding fit along the shaft.

Hi All I might be talking out of my butt but looking at that bearing it looks to be arse about face. When I serviced tractors the tapered part went on first and the roller part was put on last with a nut and cotter pin to secure.

Just my thoughts Keith.

Ian,

I just found this 'archive' of notes

There may be something useful in amongst them.

... I suggest you grab a copy in case it disappears.

Found and saved Cheers Thanks

Whatever you do you need to consider the rather unusual oiling arrangement that's used and make sure you still have the oil path.

Reply:- Thats a very good point probably need to drill hole and align with oiler.

The spindle thread shouldn't be too difficult to fix. depending on how bad it is you may be able to clean it up with a thread restoring file.

Reply:- Way beyond thread cleaning.

No need to change the bearing diameter.

Reply:- My thoughts on that as the outer race would be smaller might need inner race bigger to absorb heat.

Ian,

I just found this 'archive' of notes

There may be something useful in amongst them.

... I suggest you grab a copy in case it disappears.

MichaelG.

.

P.S. ... a Google search for "60 mm od taper roller bearing" gives loads of results; so that might be a suitable size to consider.

P.P.S ... Sorry, that might have been a little hasty ... many of the hits are for 60 mm id

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 12/12/2014 16:16:59

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 12/12/2014 16:22:02

thanks will have look.