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Member postings for Ian L2

Here is a list of all the postings Ian L2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: wanted classifieds
21/12/2014 23:21:59

Thanks Michael

I was so busy looking I missed the link i was looking for embarrassed

21/12/2014 21:57:13

How do I place wanted adverts?.

Thread: electrolysis for rust removal- carbon plates
21/12/2014 20:20:35
Posted by Phil H 1 on 07/05/2014 16:05:16:

Guys,

Maybe not quite the right section but this is related to rust removal.

I am very very pleased with the results from a quick (24 hour) dip of my 40 year old Rob Roy frames in brick cleaner.

The pictures don't really do it justice but they came out of the bath completely free from the rust shown in the first picture and not much pitting. The 'staining' around the main horns in the third picture simply wiped off.

A quick clean with rough emery cloth and they were virtually perfect.

I just need a dimensional check (I was 15 when I made them), a few more holes, Ill true up the horn slots in the miller and some new horns (I lost 2 out of 6 during the removal process).

Thanks chaps. That saved me just one or two hours hacking out new frames and its nice to be making use of the originals.

Phil H

rusty frames 1 - copy.jpg

rusty frames 2 - copy.jpg

rusty frames 3 - copy.jpg

Ok I Know its an old post just looking to remove the light brown rust stains from some lathe parts. They aren't that bad that they aren't usable but it would be nice if could get them to look like new.

Couple questions :-

Is this likely to do the job and is it just soak or does it need the electrodes?

Is there better solution?.

Thread: Oil Cups - or their lids
19/12/2014 23:28:10

Nothing to do with the Thread but the ingenuity of you guys is mind boggling thumbs up

Thread: where does one go.
15/12/2014 21:51:16

Ok. Thanks for the replies.

15/12/2014 13:23:20
Posted by Russell Eberhardt on 15/12/2014 08:15:07:

I would just use a three jaw on the chuck register with some brass shim to protect the latter and the spindle supported close to the threaded portion with a fixed steady.

Ian, did you see the sectional drawing I posted in your other thread?

Russell.

Yes I have seen the dwg thanks Russell. Once I know what getting the spindle usable again is going to cost then I can concenterate on bearings. as the bearing problem int a problem if I dont have good spindle. and if I have to purchase second hand spindle might be lucky ang get bearings from same source at same time.

14/12/2014 22:04:27
Posted by JasonB on 14/12/2014 21:21:24:

If you have enough wall thickness to turn off the thread and fit a sleeve then you should definately have enough to just skim off the thread, recut a smaller dia one and make up a new adjusting ring to fit that thread

As for holding it in teh lateh assuming the spindle has a MT taper then hold a blank in the 4-jaw taper poking out , push the spindle onto this and support the other end with a fixed steady while you turn down the end.

That made me think a little but think i know what you mean. Will the MT hold it tight enough so as to not spin while cutting a thread. I would have to get this done out as mi lathe is in bits this being one of them laugh.

14/12/2014 21:16:02
Posted by Swarf Maker on 14/12/2014 20:25:41:

Ian, you have a personal message

Hi again as fellow member (Swarf Maker) has rightly pointed out that I have not actually mentioned what this is for so just so as not to confuse the item is a lathe spindle.

14/12/2014 20:10:01

Thanks for all the good useful info. I'm on few other car related forums but you guys (and just to be correct girls if there is any) are pretty high on my list already as the best. Any way back to this topic. Just run a file over the spindle and its not as hard as I first thought. Below is picture of the spindle and its easy to see the problem. Now apart from making threaded part to attach to the damaged area (after removing the thread) as someone has mentioned the re-threading of the spindle and making new threaded collar could also work the only problem I see which might not be as bigger problem as I think is how to hold this in a lathe the bearing at the other end is not easy removed without wrecking it and very expensive to replace. Any thoughts appreciated.

Must also add there is chance that I might be able to get second hand spindle from fellow ME member so just pursuing other options as back up plan.

hpim1429.jpg

hpim1428.jpg

 

hpim1430.jpg

Edited By Ian L2 on 14/12/2014 20:14:30

Thread: ideas on dismantling bearings
14/12/2014 18:28:55
Posted by Ady1 on 14/12/2014 11:58:07:

Lidl Aldi etc sell a sonic bath cleaner for 20 quid btw. May be worth looking out for one

Edited By Ady1 on 14/12/2014 12:01:27

Now there's a thought Mrs has one for rings ect.

Thread: where does one go.
14/12/2014 08:44:34

Good point JohnF will do that as when I have found some material might be asking who's local who has working lathe. (mines in bits). might do sketch of what the application but will have to scan it at work tomorrow.

Thanks Mark C.

13/12/2014 23:09:31
Posted by Bill Pudney on 13/12/2014 22:50:48:

Can't help you with a shop for steel. However I think you may be heading for a problem.... Heating the hardened part up to shrink fit it is likely to anneal, or at least soften the part. I would suggest that you consider loctite, if you use the right grade and do it i.a.w. instructions it will not come off....

best of luck

cheers

Bill

Wondered about that but it would not be getting much more than domestic oven hot so thought it would not soften it much.

13/12/2014 22:28:05

Where does one go to purchase small round bar (around 33-35mm dia by around 100mm long) suitable for hardening and what type steel should I ask for? need to machine a thread on outside bore the inside then harden it, I then need to heat it up so when its on the shaft and cooled its not coming off. I have contacts via work who purchase steel but supplier only sells large amounts.

Thread: ideas on dismantling bearings
13/12/2014 21:02:26
Posted by Nicholas Farr on 13/12/2014 20:54:45:

Hi Ian, you mean like this;Taper Roller Bearings

This is the most common arrangement for pre-loaded taper roller bearings to eliminate any backlash. the idea is that it retains a constant bearing load throughout a wide temperature range. All bearings rise in temperature during use and expand, this arrangement will have the heat generated in the bearing transferred into the spindle and as this expands, the inner race moves away from the outer race and the corresponding expansion of the rollers fills up the gap keeping the load fairly constant. meanwhile the heat generated dissipates to atmosphere through the spindle and the bearing housing. All a matter of good and careful design.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 13/12/2014 20:55:04

Yep the RH cone is up against flange and the LH cone is supposed to be tight but sliding fit along the shaft.

13/12/2014 20:22:20
Posted by Metalmuncher on 13/12/2014 19:33:57:

Hi All I might be talking out of my butt but looking at that bearing it looks to be arse about face. When I serviced tractors the tapered part went on first and the roller part was put on last with a nut and cotter pin to secure.

Just my thoughts Keith.

Yep that's what I have seen in past but this has fixed outer race and the inner race is pulled at one end at the same time the mirror image at the other end of the spindle the inner race is pushed to pre-load.

13/12/2014 15:01:06

has any one got any ideas on how I can dismantle (remove rollers) this taper bearing the rollers sit inside a recess on inner race. I would like to then be able to reassemble after cleaning.

bearing inner.jpg

Thread: taper bearings
12/12/2014 21:36:53

Hi Max

Some good points "why do they have shelf life" its one of the occasions that one could end up spending more restoring than the cost to purchase new budget lathe. Problem is having never had this lathe running I am unsure on how good or bad it is, it looks as its done very little for a very long time and to get the bearing off it required the hydraulic press which has not done it any good. I'm hoping a contact has some good used parts once running I can decide if it justifies the extra expense to perfect it.

12/12/2014 19:32:07
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 12/12/2014 16:12:32:

Ian,

I just found this 'archive' of notes

There may be something useful in amongst them.

... I suggest you grab a copy in case it disappears.

Found and saved Cheers Thanks

12/12/2014 19:16:14
Posted by Russell Eberhardt on 12/12/2014 16:57:44:

Whatever you do you need to consider the rather unusual oiling arrangement that's used and make sure you still have the oil path.

Reply:- Thats a very good point probably need to drill hole and align with oiler.

The spindle thread shouldn't be too difficult to fix. depending on how bad it is you may be able to clean it up with a thread restoring file.

Reply:- Way beyond thread cleaning.

No need to change the bearing diameter.

Reply:- My thoughts on that as the outer race would be smaller might need inner race bigger to absorb heat.

12/12/2014 19:06:31
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 12/12/2014 16:12:32:

Ian,

I just found this 'archive' of notes

There may be something useful in amongst them.

... I suggest you grab a copy in case it disappears.

MichaelG.

.

P.S. ... a Google search for "60 mm od taper roller bearing" gives loads of results; so that might be a suitable size to consider.

P.P.S ... Sorry, that might have been a little hasty ... many of the hits are for 60 mm id

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 12/12/2014 16:16:59

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 12/12/2014 16:22:02

thanks will have look.

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