Member postings for pgk pgk

Almost all glues soften with heat..but often there's a sticky residue that one spends ages with solvents to shift and gums up any abrasive. i rather wanted to keep the disc if possible...just seems a waste that diameter and a square edge keeper part coming off the lathe could be painful at that size if just the centre bolted?

No recommendations on sticky tape types?

I need to trephine a 5 3/8in hole in a 9in square 2.5mm ally sheet. I was planning on using an MDF backing bolted to the faceplate with edge clamps and a centre but decent edge clamps are going to get me close to the limits of swing unless i pull the gap (and for a simple job the nuisance of cleaning and putting it back..)

So recommendations please on a double-sided sticky MDF=> ally that i can actually get off again....

pgk

I can second NFU. It was the obvious choice for my farm stuff and they seem quite flexible about adding things like me rc helis and hobby stuff.

Practical reality with barns and shed.. or even with my previous business - is that unsophisticated smash and grabs are almost indefensible. Why bother with the 'subtlties' of a stihl saw when you can just ram through the fence and wall...

It;s a change of culture: we want it yesterday and we want it cheap and we'll throw it away as soon as used (not saying that applies to this hobby). Cheap means imported cr@p and immediately means a large inventory which a small business can't finance and the big stores will focus on cost-effective stock. Bluntly it;s simply business.

Where i am it's 24miles+ round trip to any decent hardware shop unless you want standard jobber drills or building supplies. And it's a 60 mile round trip to B&Q. So almost eerythig is mail-order.

Where i lived before in Surrey we had a local hardware shop that did care. The guys working there knew all their stock, could give sane advice and their inventory was quite extensive or they'd get it in 1-3 days. I think the reason they stayed so solvent was just because that sort of service was worth travelling for in a major suburb so their customer base was also huge.

I suppose another argument (from and complete newbie) is that the essenceof this hobbyis making stuff.. which could apply to a lot of tooling apart from, say, drill bits and endmills or the very very acurately ground.

To take that furthergo look at the qualty of medaeival german fashion armour. I doubt the guy making it could pop down to B&Q for a new angle grinder disc....or even buy emery cloth.

Just to remind folk that the original question was regarding the math for shimming..since I was feeling particulalrly dense at the time.

That is a bit moot right now. I've just been rechecking and the sideways tram was out again. One of the problems with this model is that it shifts as you tighten the head bolts and I'd obviously not doged them donw enough last time anyway. After much pratting about Ive got it to 0.03mm over a DTI width of about 18cm. Not as perfect as I;d have liked but the head bolts are dogged as tight as my 18stone can lean on them.

Right now the nod has gone.. so evidently the head bolt tightness affects the way the head sits against the main pillar. Whether there's any effect fro the shed cooling and then the woodburner heating up again... well i'll see how the sideways tram is tomorrow.

I also didnt have the quill lock engaged last time which might also affect things.

0.03mm over 18cm.. well the widest cutter it's rated for is 80mm and at that the sideways variation would be 0.014mm'ish ..just over a half thou in imperial over the cutter face. So for a tyro about to skim his first metal it's close enough.

Incidentally my first message math was near enough -.shim thickness half the DTI difference proportioned to the DTI spread compared to column bolt spread.. although i drew a cheat pic to get my head around it. It may still need to be shimmed..but no point rushing into that.. a few more days of checks and measures to see if anything moves. I still have to check quill lock on/off and indeed whether how far the quill is out matters

By heck there were some typos there (sticky laptop keyboard in the shed!)

I was thinking dual feeler guages if I was going to do it, too... and once corrected cut them off and run a bead of silicone sealant around the junction? It was more a case of a math starting point.

The other minor issues with this mill...the nylon fan in the main motor head has a cracked boss and sits skewed and rubs and whoever tghtened up the fixings on the guard cracked both plastic mount holes so replacements requested. The manual supplied is dire so use the one from Grizzly's site to see how to access the spindles for cleaning and greasing. It was also supplied with a freebie surfacing mill that uses 4 bits of 12x12 HSS but the bits in there have some really nasty casting inclusions so I'll chop up/grind some nice bits from one of my 5%Cro's. And the usual crappy chinese gearbox so you have to twist-rock the quill to help change gear. I hope that will loosen up a bit when it's run in.

I'm feeling dense today so need to check this, please.

This isa chester superlux. I was trying totrma it in last night.. got the sideaxis within 0.01mm o my DTI with a spread of 24cm (ie 12cm horizontal arm).. whch is probably more than within the resolution of a cheap DTI. (and not easy with the way tightening the bolts affects stuff)

The nod measures some 0.07 to 0.08mm on the same spread. The only adjustment wouldbe by shimming column bolts.

If my brain isnt malfunctioning too much then i see that as a ned to shim the back bolt to tilt forards by half that measured nod? And with the fore-aft bolt spacing being approx 12cm that would theoretically be 0.02 shim??? Which would be less than a thou shim in old fashioned money i.e best left alone???

Or are my sums right out?

I used to have 3 large oaks on the drive but 2yrs ago in the bad snow one cae down and took out my woodstore and barely scratched he wife's car. I;ve been hunting for a climber (at sensible money) to top out the other two since then.

The guys turned up today and did the first but took out the phone line with a large branch. Out here in the sticks getting Openreach to sort stuff can take a few days so I spliced in some weatherproof ethernet cable I had,, twisted the wires, soldered, heatshrunk, wrapped in insulation tape and heatshrunk over the lot. The big problem was getting the heat from my 50Watt gas iron to do the job outdoors - pretty darned cold today even in the sun bits and then it snowed. Still we have internet again and the phone 'cos this is a cellphone and terrestrial TV dead zone

Am I right in guessing that this technique depends on rotating the stock slowly enough that the sage is consistent at the measuring point?

I had that very problem with my last garage. After climbing up with some boards to walk about on I found that some of the flashing was dud at the front too. Since it was mine i wanted a good repair so cut in some lead for the flashing and then wire brushed/cleaned off the surface of the sheets and painted them with bitumen.. solved it for years.

Now I realise this is a rental but if there's anything worth storing in there then it might just be worth some aluminium tape over dodgy flashing and the bitumen job just to protect your stuff. Anything you put underneath is still going to allow the water into the space with the associated high humidity - it'll still be damp.

It's done.

The 'rivet' turned out not to be.. I gave it a modest tap with a drift and it's just a press fit from one side to the tight side. Some careful filing and it's staying cocked albeit the pull to discharge if anythign is a bit heavy..but that's the safe side and its hard to make a real judgement for this amateur without replacing the stock.. and some screws have gone missing so I need to dig about in my assortments to find some. At least they're standard metric threads so easy to source if I'm out of stock for that size (i had some that were too short)

Thanks for all the help guys.

pgk

Idont know how I mssed the makers name before.. It's a Slavia 620. I must just have had my hand over than bit Doh!

A few points from the comments:

Yes, it's probably a cheap and crappy air rifle.. It's not a 12 guage etc and I happen to have my own 50+ acres of land so no-one else will be affected. Yes I could save time and hassle if I really wanted a smart air rifle and go buy a modern nice flash thingy with scopes etc. or since I have a farm I could likely have a word with Mr Plod and get a license for something much more lethal. None of that s the point. It was my Dad's and I'd iike to have a go at getting it working safely.. And then perhaps shoot a tin-full of pellets at a piece of paper before getting bored and putting it away.....

Now this looks more fun:

If you mean the beak tip of the trigger then filing that was my first thought. But the metal is pretty tough and i don't think I can do a neat job in situ; there's no way to mount it all and be able to lean on it nicely. I had thought of filing out the rivet it pivots on and removig the trigger to reface it on the side of my wet grinder, pop in a temporary bolt where the rivet was for testing etc and the replace rivet when correct?

If I push the trigger against the cockign mechanism then it holds.. so the other thought was that the tiny return spring at the back of the trigger might be a bit weak but I do realsie that a tough or sticky release will affect usage.

Bear wth my while I think about this and get my better camera out. I just mounted my new mill on it's stand yesterday and want to get the packing grease and stuff cleaned off it, shift the engine crane out of the shed and tidy up the installation messes...

I must admit I was a bit wary about using tyre plugs as a DIY on my car.. the thought of a highspeed failure whether my fault or not, compared to a tyre place doing it....

My land is pretty thorny so stuff I drive/ tow on the fields has had lots punctures.. tractor front tyres in particular with some 10 patches this year.

Am i the only one that actually has a trolly jack in the back of the car 'cos bending down to use cr@ppy scissor jacks hurts old bones...But then my car is 20yrs old 'cos it's comfy and still goes like a rocket.

I hadn't throught about a jib extension. I did consider pallet forks but my liklehood of needing them again is low. If it wasn't a case of having to shift the thing due to weather.. if it could have waited a day or three then neighbour farmer is quite good at popping down when he's free and bringing a telehandler (usually to pull me out of a bog)

Not so sure about a long enough jib for this job anyway- single point would make safe roping harder and a long jib would mean rear weights (or the topper attached and harder to manoeuver). I wouldnt have trusted a lash-up of scaffold poles with my new toy.....

I'm unaware of any makers name on this. There is a long serial number below which is a tiny indeciferable symbol scratched in - possibly a makers mark? I'll look more closely at the parts for soemthign but i think it was just a cheapy even back then.

Any further advice on hw to fettel this appreciated..

<<They also had what we were told was the only working gallows in the UK. It was kept because hanging was still the ultimate penalty for treason.....>>

I have some vague recollection that even after hanging for murder was repealed it was still on the books for 'arson in his/her majesty's dockyards' - unless that's an urban myth...

( a bit like the quaint but prbaby untrue story of the Cambridge student who discovered an old college rule allowing him to take a pint of ale into an exam - And was punished for not wearing his sword.)

This is my deceased father's air rifle.. donkeys years old and originally from former Czechoslovakia.

The problem is that the trigger will slip unpredictably from the cocked position and obviously that's unsafe and unusable.

I'm guessing that it's worn and needs a bit of a notch or greater angle filing/grinding behind the point that holds against the round block on the spring (whatever that's called). And it's pretty hard material making little impression with a small round needle file in situ. So again I'm guessing it's goimg to need the rivet drilling out to take the trigger unit off for access.

But I'd appreciate the opinion of folk into such things before 'winging' it..

I just needed to get it in out of the rain and over the doorstep.. well that's after getting it all the way from the tarmac drive down the stoned trackway. It was on the pallet for that but still nerve wracking