Member postings for Izack Madd

The sort of blades I'm thinking of are around 500mm x 50mm x 2mm and used on the machine shop static powered hacksaw. Also so long as there not the bi metal ones which cost the earth. They are fully hardened. So hard to work but very economical as you can get say 18 out of a full blade deepening on the break and how it's cut. Table saw blades are ok as the carbide is only at the tips but they tend to only be thrown out when some twonk has jammed a piece of wood down the side so have what we call black spot which means there's either a ring or a big patch of overheated metal that's lost its temper... And expands faster than the rest of the blade so causes wobble. That much I do know from when I made the trainee change the blades after messing them up and clean out the saw at the same time knowing that the wood that had jammed it would have thrown hot sap and burn wood onto the sides off table saw...nasty and messy... Heh heh never did again though.

Thanks though bandersnatch I know what you mean normal hacksaw blades are only about? 15mm max usable but a bit thin so tend to snap and make a mess of the finished piece, usually just as

Hi,

Thanks for all this. Sadly starting you Maurice. Due to very poor mobility now I'm unable to get to the sale to buy the great old blades as I used to do that. But thanks. And JasonB I'd love to use old machine hacksaw blades but all the works around here are working on a waiting list of model makers. And I've never actually worn out a normal blade other than junior that is. In forty years. So none of them but as a last resort I may break one deliberately. And with care. As for the the suggestions of Keith Long and JasonB about "gauge plate" or "ground flat plate" my only issues is. How do I temper it? Especially at home the best I can do is an old pri us stove I've used to melt lead in the past. But ive no idea how hot, I do know that bit . Or what else. So help.. Again please.

Also thanks for reminding me of the Dremel as I was thinking I'd have to shape them by hand. Bad enough having to use them but I dare not let my self loose with a router any more. I enjoy counting to ten thanks

Edited By Izack Madd on 18/10/2014 21:08:09

Hi,

Stupid question time again I'm afraid.

I want to make some scratch stock blades. Simple enough. I hope you know what they are. If not there usually about 25mm x 50mm X 1.5mm. And I want to grind/file certain profiles in them to use to scratch that profile in timbers.

And hers my problem everywhere I go there's loads of different metals all with different numbers. Which mean nothing to me. Do I need tool steel? Will stainless do or even mild, which I doubt. But I just don't know. I don't want to pay for the highest quality metal only to discover something for 99p would have done me or visa versa.

So please help this old wooden top. Thanks

Hi.

Thanks for that I thought it wouldn't need heating at this size. But like I say totally alien to me if it doesn't have leaves and bark on it.

Thanks for the info on equipment as for dents on the back they won't show as it's got to have a food safe internal epoxy coating. That's also why I didn't mention normal epoxies. But I'll do some test runs first. Great item you've got there. Nice to that its not only oil running through your veins

At least now I can go in the shop and ask for the right thing. Without that "here's another weekend diy'er" look especially as I've been mangling wood for thirty odd years.

Just wish I could do the same as you in metal. Then I'd never buy another tool again. But then again id be too busy making tools to use them.

Cheers

Hi.

Im an utter newbie to this sort of metal work as i am a woodentop by trade. But ive been asked to add some riveted brass bandin to an item. And i dont know anything about solid rivets beyond where i can get them.

Im looking at using 1/16th x 3/8th rivets. Mosly for decoration but if i can get the right gear and knowledge. Im hopeing to use the rivets perhaps with a small washer insid to ensure the brass stays put.

I do know that large steel rivets neet haeting and this would be out of the question. But di i need to with brass or should i use copper (because i assume its softer) and what tools do i need?

Thanks in advance for what im sure are very elementry question.

Izzy