Member postings for stewart wood

Hi, just came on here to idle my time away , know I should be doing something more productive but!!! saw your thread and thought Aircraft , interesting , But I must have missed something some where ,it feels like I have only halve the story ,or should I have looked some where else for the start of the thread Stewart

Sort out the little black book that holds all your pass words , and remember to have it with you before you sit down with the iPad.

Hi The glass lapping plate, not thought about using it other than with wetndry paper . ,use it mainly for sharpening wood chisels and the plane blade occasionally . Re finding PCD ,Idid as suggested but used a piece of HSS tool steel held in the tool post and ran the spindle Stewart.

Hi Bandersnatch , the chuck is a 3 jaw 6'' Rohm on a Drummond lathe one of the last ones I think , before it went to Myford . Don't forget , the holes need to be drilled PDC otherwise you will have runout of the part you are machining. Stewart

Hi I think the most important thing will be the speed your drilling at , anything around 600 rpm would be good or slower wont hurt . some lube will help too . I suspect if you try to run slow the drill will pull up, or at least slow down and thats the trouble with electric drills not much torque. unless its a really good one . drilling by hand (not easy up a ladder ) .General rule, if you can see the turnings coming off and they are grey silver spirals you have hit the spot speed wise . lots of time and a good supply of drills. good luck Stewart PS carbide tipped drills may be ok on the concrete but not on the steel . A solid carbide drill may help but only if you have deep pockets.

Have you ever had that feeling , that the lights have just been switched on ? The problem was, how to get a six dia x 1/8 thick plate into the chuck on my lathe so I could drill bore and face it . The chuck is big enough , external jaws fitted , but the jaws wouldn't swing through the bed gap ,when holding the plate . Bright idea!! drill and tap each jaw 6m/m on the last step , screw in a caphead on each one , now the work is clamped using each caphead to clamp the edge of the plate, works perfect. I am sure someone else will have solved this in a similar way but still , its all part of the fun . I think someone mentioned using glass has a lapping in plate , , I use a small double glazed unit 10 x14 inch much stronger than one sheet of glass and most units are made from toughened glass these days. have fun Stewart

Good morning every one , just wanted to say thanks to all who replied to step pulley supplier question ,
Stewart.

Hi ,I have posted on here once before ,and i am a long term reader of of the thread pages , all very interesting to anyone who likes repairing stuff, making things ,or just keeping out of mischief .My question is can someone tell me where I can buy a step pulley . I have one, purchased sometime since , and managed to bore it out of true . I cant remember were it came from , and would like to try again ,and hopefully make a better job of it Thanks to anyone who can help Stewart

I remember a machine that was used for threading nuts many years ago ,that had a tap with a long plain shank which was bent at 90 deg. The nuts where threaded one at a time and traveled up the tap and off the back end to drop threaded in to a box .Did the nuts go round or was the tap revolving ? can anyone remember how it worked . Stewart

HI and a happy new year to all . I want to say how much I have enjoyed the recent discussion about CC AND HOW passionate we all are about it . I read this site most nights , but spent most of my time reading the climate change posts last night , I love the engineering bits too {lost skills } specially . Thanks again to all keep up the good work Stewart

Thanks again for your help , my enthusiasm as been re ignited . I was given this lathe a couple of years ago and spent a few quid on a motor and lead screw nut [I had made ],a complete strip down paint and rebuild only to find I couldn't stop the chatter .I will have another go re armed with new info . Stewart

Thanks to you all for your advice, the bearings on my machine are the later type, tapered bush into tapered casting with the small tapered block under the lube screw and the C spanner nut on each end of the casting. Eug you are probably right with your idea of one shot at getting it free of play ,sometimes when I set it up its been better than others.I will get back to you on the thrust bearing if I am still struggling .Ady thanks for the link. Another thought ,,could the 6 inch chuck be to heavy ? its got to be 5/6 kgs or more. Stewart

Hi i have a Drumond M TYPE and i have removed and checked the head stock bearings and spindle ,when i reassemble them and try to machine say EN 1A i cant get a good finish . i have tried and checked all the usual things , tool geometry ,slide play , speeds etc, I have a Rohm chuck dia 6 inch and a 3 inch sharp both tried to same effect, i can machine Brass and Aluminium no problem . I think perhaps i am missing some thing when setting up the head bearings . All advice and thought s would be appreciated thanks . Stewart