Member postings for Phil Grant

Dias,

As Roy says, VCC == +5V, the others are as you said. Clough42 recommends that the power for the stepper driver and the electronics remain seperate so do not connect the grounds together, the 5V and GND from the PCB should only be used to power the optocouplers in the driver.

Phil

Hi Dias,

There is a pinout diagram in the other thread and a link to a document I put together tho show how it is assembled, does this pinout help?

As far as I know the ALM (Alarm) is a signal that comes from t and if you use a stepper it's not used anyway.he servo controller when there is something wrong like missed steps etc. the last I read it wasn't implemented yet.

I hope that helps.

Phil

Dias,

You're Welcome.

Answers o your questions: -

1. I'm not sure, other than power everything up on the bench I've not yet had it connected to my lathe properly, I would suggest a visit to Clough42s GIT page and ask the question there.

2. I haven't yet see answer No. 1. I was thinking of using a Dymo type printer and varnish over the top of the label.

3. I also have a NEMA23 double shaft I bought from steppersonline, I also bought a DM542T controller Digital Controller I believe they are smoother than the cheaper Chinese non DSP controllers.

I hope that helps, I know it's probably the answers you were hoping for.

Phil

Roy,

Here you go

Roger,

You should be fine with a resin printer the resolution should be more than enough, my Ender3 struggled with the small text above the LEDs.

Phil

Roger,

I've been using Fusion360 for a couple of years and I never new you could do that every day is a school day thanks for the tip.

I spent ages inserting and placing the text on the front surface .

Phil

I did the same thing on my 3D printed lid in fusion 360 but when I printed it the text didn't come out to well, print it with the smallest layer height you can but it will take a lot longer to print.

Dias,

I'm printing the top now , the measurements look the same as mine.

I'll print some buttons as well.

Phil

Dias,

Here is the link to the box I bought, it is the 1590B version

Ebay Link

Phil

Dias,

I can 3D print you the top cover, I bought the metal case and lid off ebay and as I don't own a milling machine I 3D printed the top,

If you get the case and Confirm the measurements I will print and send you a top, no problem.

Phil

As far as I know this wouldn't work with this display without changes to the code, the structure of the display is completely different to the key n LED display, not sure about the interface without reading the spec's.

Phil

I put your kits in the postbox this morning 😁

Phil

Yes it looks like it a common 5V with switched grounds

Link to wiring plan

Yes I noticed that I had the connectors the opposite way around on my design, that's one reason why I used an surface mount power connector to stop it fouling the pins underneath.

If you trim the protruding pins that stick out of the bottom on the display connector it shouldn't foul anything, maybe I should update the info document.

To check the wiring of the stepper driver check out Cloough42 videos, they can be wired either way and you arduino setup may have been wired tho other way and worked fine but the ELS may need to be wired the other way, i will check my wiring later.

Phil

Zan,

Have you got the logic level the right way for the stepper driver module, I can't remember which way they should be off the top of my head.

Have you connected with a common ground or a common 5V?

Phil

The first test I did was to test the voltages on the pins that supply the TI board are correct.

To do this plug in the 5V supply to the power connector without plugging the PCB onto the TI board and test the voltages on the 5V and 3.3V pins.

Once this is done and the voltages are correct you should then be OK to plug it into the TI board.

If you have flashed the TI board and have a display connected then the display should work when you apply power, if not then a multimeter or oscilloscope may be needed, Clough42 has a YouTube video on what should be seen with an oscilloscope.

Good luck,

Phil

I have a question about the type of stepper motor to use for this application, why is the servo option considered to be better?

My understanding is that a servo with feedback is Ideal where positional accuracy is required, say a cnc axis control.

This application requires synchronisation between the spindle and the leadscrew if steps are missed due to external factors then the synchronisation is lost and adding steps on will not recover that synchronisation between the spindle and leadscrew.

I would think spending extra on a more powerful stepper motor would make more sense leading to no missed steps in the first place.

Or have I missed something?

I bought my kit (just a stepper motor and driver) from Stepperonline, they were quite cheap and deliver from different countries and they have some offer codes at the moment (I have no affiliation with them)

LINK

Usually the stepper driver will have an upper voltage which could be upto 40 volts and it provides the current to the stepper motor (set with jumpers).

I'm using a 24v supply in my setup and it drives the lead screw OK but I've not tried threading yet.

Glad it arrived OK.

It may be a good idea to trim the length of the pins that stick through the PCB on the display connector.

insert it onto the PCB and before you solder it use some snips to shorten the pins to just proud of the PCB, I'm sure the holes are plated through so the should still secure properly into the PCB.

For the pictures I would use the album feature in the black bar towards the top of the page then you can insert a picture into a post from the album, as per MichaelGs link.

Phil