Member postings for Stuart Osborne 5

Nowhere on any myford site can I discover what oil is recommended for the original Compton drive motor on my 1972 S7. There is a spring cap oiling cup at each end of the motor. Can anyone tell me what lubricant to use please. Incidentally I am the proud possessor of 15 liters each of ISO32 and ISO68, the smallest quantity available here in Spain!

Stuart Osborne

Sorry if this is not the right place for this enquirybut I too have just acquired a long bed S7 Mk2 (1972) myford that has been standing untouched for several years. It came with the two shelf octagonal stand - eat your heart out mr builder!

Anyway the clutch seems to be permanently engaged and the handle just rotates.

I know about the dangerous spring so have approach it carefully. Took off the plastic cover at the handle end and I can see the ball bearing just lying in the bottom of the tube. The rod is not touching the operating the cam. Hence the handle just flopping about.

At the pully end the screw slot has been broken and there are two nuts on the thread, there Is 0.5 mm gap between the lower nut and the clutch plate assembly.

Any advice please.

Hope this is the right place.

Bit late I know, but I have almost finished building John wildings turret clock. I have done it using a Hobbymat lathe and integral milling machine, a vertex rotary table and a division master. I have made a grasshopper escapement but there is a problem with the drawing in the book, using the drawing the top arm does not clear the escape wheel so the pallet can't reach the tooth so recommend you make a mock up to get the right dimensions for the length of the bridge and where to drill the pivot holes. Although mine works well, it's difficult to set up. Harrison had problems with keeping his grasshoppers going so he changed his clocks over to deadbeat escapements. When I finally finish I will put a deadbeat in the finished product.

I have just dismantled and re-bushed a hobbymat mill gear box. If anyone has any questions about it please ask away while I remember!

FIO Neil Wyatt. Grovel grovel. It seems it was the bearings. They have been re packed and the taper cleaned and there is now less than half a thou run out. To remove the spindle and bearings there is a left hand threaded bearing cover beneath the spindle flage. There are two stud holes in the bearing cover accessed through two corresponding holes in the spindle flange. Thanks for your interest.

Have tried tapered drills too. It is definitely the taper that is out. If necessary we can re grind it or make a new spindle If I can't sort this out but the problem remains of how to get the thing out of the bearing sleeve. I am using the mill for clock making. On the up side it drills holes halfway between imperial and the metric equivalent!

Thanks Neil. It is about one thou. Out. The tip of a small drill is a blurr. Bearings are nice and tight. A friend gave me this mill and had tried to ream the taper but his lathe was not rigid enough and the tail stock just vibrated when he put the reamer in. ( he can't remember how he got the spindle out of the bearing sleeve!) I have found someone with a heavy lathe and will try reaming again if I can get the spindle out of the sleeve. I am not sure whether these posts go automatically, I can't find a 'send' button, that's why you might have two copies of this.

The morse taper in my mill is not running true, it is perfectly clean. I have dismantled the head and I can not see how to remove the spindle fron the bearing sleeve. Any ideas please, tried gentle encouragement with rubber hammer but no joy.