Member postings for John Chandler

All is well! I used the middle approach and everything is back together again and running smoothly.

Thank you all for your interest and advice on what was a rather minor problem.

As regards drilling a dimple on the pin for the grub screw I decided I was not skilled enough to do it dismantled and if I did it in situ I was concerned about damaging the thread on the lever, so I shelved it for now.

I have actually had this machine for 26 years,I made a visit to the factory in Beeston and brought it home here to the USA with me in 1988. Obviously minimal use so it is in pretty good condition.Bit heavy for carry-on!

Once again, thanks very much.

JC

Thanks Brian!

I will try that and let you know how I get on.

JC

Sorry for delay, had to do some RPA (Revenue Producing Activity).

To go back to my original thought, there are only three different locations, with a dimple for each on the bottom of the quadrant plate and only one way for the quadrant plate to go in the top cover.

If I move the sliding gear to the left to engage the 32T gear then the only way that the thrust block can engage the sliding gear is if the lever is to the right i.e. 4 o’clock. So if I position the quadrant plate on the outside dimple then the only way you can move the sliding gear is to the right, or clockwise from the top, so that should be the position for fixing the upper lever as in the chart. This is what I meant in my earlier post where left and right positions may have been confused.

Am I right this time?

JC

To go back to the beginning of my problem, the reason I needed to take the cover off was because the lever was rotating on the pivot pin and so I did not know what the original position was, so I do not know where the thrust block should go and in what position. There is no flat spot on the pin ,just a recess off the surface of the pin. My pin was scratched up with elongated rough grooves caused by the slipping grub screw. A new pin is £12.50 + VAT. I thought a little steep, as I would have to add postage here to the USA, so I will just try to smooth out the old one.

According to the chart the coarsest threads are with the lever to the right, so the fastest rotation would be on the left end of the gear spindle in the box. Getting the thrust block in and re-assembled looks like it might be a bit fiddly. When a the box has the cover on again I will just fix the lever in the right hand position and really torque it down.

Is my reasoning correct? Would appreciate an opinion or a better suggestion.

Thanks to all so far.

JC

Actually I was just preparing myself for the eventuality of my stripping the socket hole in the screw and the resultant mess trying to get the screw out.

All of which led me off on a tangent regarding the shortening of an allen key. I first tried with a hacksaw but then resorted to a bolt cutter, but was concerned if grinding the end smooth, with the subsequent heating, would change the temper of the key which was pretty hard. Luckily I have a box full of 3/16 keys so could experiment with a couple.

I might need some help on what is supposed to go where, when and if I get it open.

Thanks

JC

My lead screw suddenly stopped rotating and I found that the grub screw on the lever was loose and the lever just rotated on the rod without moving anything. There was no flat spot on the rod so I thought I had better look inside the box to determine. the correct position. The first three screws were easy to access, though extremely difficult to unscrew.The fourth one (top right hand corner) is directly under the oil cup and somewhat inaccessible.

Is there a correct way to remove and replace the oil cup if I have to, without damaging it. I have shortened the short arm on my allen key to reach the screw but was concerned that I might strip the head or hole in the screw considering the unusual force required to remove the first three screws.

Or maybe I shouldn't take the top off.

Any advice would be appreciated.

JC