Here is a list of all the postings Robert James 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: All things Beaver Mill |
18/05/2017 13:32:16 |
I have had many things taking up my time and have not been able to work on my mill. I know the head needs attention. I would love to see your pictures. My head is bound up it does not feed manually or under power milling has to be done by raising the table. |
Thread: Restoring Beaver VBRP Mill |
18/01/2017 15:43:37 |
Can yu send me a link to the McMaster page? My draw bar is a home made rig. Thanks! |
14/01/2017 00:32:34 |
I'm in Indianapolis, and you? |
Thread: All things Beaver Mill |
13/01/2017 01:24:53 |
Hi readers! I have started this thread for anything related to the Beaver Mills. If you have a question post it here, we won't accuse you of hijacking a thread. If you have a Beaver Mill and want to post pictures go for it. Thinking of buying one and have questions ask thm here. I'm on the road but with my next post I'll post some pictures. along with my model and serial numbers. Know something special about these Mills that is a little known fact chime in. Know someone who built these mills see if you can get them to chime in. As the title says this thread is all about the Beaver Mills. Thanks and enjoy! |
Thread: Restoring Beaver VBRP Mill |
12/01/2017 00:46:54 |
Posted by Travis Hitt on 08/01/2017 17:31:33:
Anyone have the dimensions for the drawbar and spacers on the bar? My machine failed to come with one when purchased. It doesn't have the black wheel at the top of the head either. Can anyone post the dimensions on these parts so I can make some new ones? Travis if no one answers before I get home on Friday I'll get you measurements and pictures. I'm just curious are you in the U.S. or Great Britain? |
Thread: Wiring my Beaver Mill |
12/01/2017 00:42:31 |
An update for anyone needing a new motor start switch. Here in the States I found a company called WEG. They have a nice inexpensive replacement switch, mine cost about 66.00 usd. It works on the 220V 3 Phase I have to run. It senses a phase loss as well as overload conditions. I have one on order if this works as advertised I'm going to replace the suds controler as well. When I get it installed I'll post pictures. |
Thread: Restoring Beaver VBRP Mill |
12/01/2017 00:40:09 |
An update for anyone needing a new motor start switch. Here in the States I found a company called WEG. They have a nice inexpensive replacement switch, mine cost about 66.00 usd. It works on the 220V 3 Phase I have to run. It senses a phase loss as well as overload conditions. I have one on order if this works as advertised I'm going to replace the suds controler as well. When I get it installed I'll post pictures. |
08/01/2017 00:26:32 |
Thanks for the response those make a nice system. Are they setup for a specific flow for for a specific point? |
06/01/2017 21:27:47 |
Posted by Mark Rand on 31/12/2016 17:38:22:
That pump is for the table feed gearbox itself. On the Mk1, 2 and 3 gearboxes, lubrication to the gear train relies on oil being carried upwards on the gear teeth of lower gears to feed higher gears and bearings. It worked, sort-of, on the earlier ones... My Mk1 had suffered the indignity of at least the previous owner using grease on the ways. At the end of the re-scraping/rebuilding process, I blanked off and redrilled the existing oil ports and added a few more when fitting a one-shot system. It has 68ISO oil for the horizontal ways and 220ISO oil for the column ways:-
Edited By Mark Rand on 31/12/2016 17:39:51 Mark what brand is the manual oilers you used I like the manifolds you used. |
05/01/2017 21:56:57 |
Today I found out my "Manual Mortor Start Switch" is toast. Since this switch is the main switch , It sends power to both the spindle and the suds pump I'm going to try to find a suitable replacement. The old switch has an adjustable amp setting. Does anyone know what that setting was supposed to be? Have any of you found a suitable replacement? the only one I've found is almost 250.00 U.S. dollars. Ouch! |
02/01/2017 00:37:04 |
Hi Guys, A few questions if I may. First, My machine has the zirk fittings that we here in the states use for grease. What kind of lube gun do you have in England to inject oil into those zirk fittings. If you know of a factory supply that has a website where I might order one that would be awesome. Second, Does anyone have a good page 36 from the manual? Could you send me a copy mine is cut off. Third Does anyone know anything about the main switch on the left side of the machine close to the floor. I believe it is the main switch. I think it supplies power to the head and the suds pump and table drives if the machine has any. Mine is wired out and the head is wired directly to the phase convertor. I don't know how it is supposed to work so I don't know how to test it. Is it a electromagnetic type that once turned on will stay engaged until turned off or until there is a power failure? Forth, What kind of Cutting Fluid / Coolant was used in the suds pump sump? ( try to say that fast 5 times) Thanks!
Edited By Robert James 3 on 02/01/2017 00:38:33 Edited By Robert James 3 on 02/01/2017 00:39:18 |
27/12/2016 00:24:05 |
Alan what is a 3 phase isolater? In the one picture from the back (you may have to move down on the picture) I have a Rotary Phase Convertor sitting on a piece of plywood temporarily till I can find some Isolators. |
26/12/2016 14:56:03 |
Hi Alan, I am finding this forum very hard to use so pardon me it my posts are not right. Here is a Icloud album with pictures of my Beaver Mill and my South Bend Lathe. In the photo that shows the main switch you'll see the switch hanging out of the box. Do you know anything about these switches? I don't and don't know how to check one out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bob
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23/12/2016 23:00:51 |
Guys please pardon the interuption. I am across the pond in the States I have a Beaver Mill that I just powered up today for the first time. What a thrill since I had to use a phase convertor. Can someone point me to a forum for these machines. Many thanks in advance. I am suscribed to this thread so I should see any post. |
Thread: Wiring my Beaver Mill |
22/12/2016 01:20:57 |
Thanks guys! I'm in the process of running the conduit for the feed. Do either of you have any experience with The factory push button switches? Mine look like they have disconnected for a while now. I have seen this kind of switch for years in the shop but I have no knowledge of them or how they work. Right now the motor pig tail is just hanging free. It was connected direct to the phase convertor using the switch on the head to turn on and off the motor. Where ever possible I plan to use the factory equipment unless it dosen't work and cannot be replaced. Again Thanks for your help! |
21/12/2016 22:45:19 |
I am some what confused. I have a Beaver VBRP MK1+2 Mill. The pig tail coming out of the head has four wires coming from it,,a white, a red, a blue and a green. The green is the ground that I understand. Which of the Coloured are L2, L2, L3. Does it make a difference. I will be running a phase convertor. It has all the lines marked so on it I know which is which on it. I the mill manual it shows two number five connections I understand that if the motor is running backwards you reverse those two wires and it will change directions. Can anyone confirm this for me? Thanks in advance. |
Thread: Restoring Beaver VBRP Mill |
08/10/2016 00:17:42 |
Thank you for your post to Drop Box. Your post has made a happy weekend for me. I decided that this machine is just taking up space and I need to get it running. I'm off in the morn to get the items I need to run the power to it. Thanks Again! Oh by the way I have two copies one will go into the safe. |
29/07/2014 04:10:58 |
Hi Paul, Hello from across the pond, I'm Robert. I just set a VBRP ser 4769/2 in my shop. It's late here and it has been a long day but I look forward to reading your posts in the days ahead. Your posts will be very helpful to get my machine up and running in good shape. Thanks for your posts. Cheers! Robert
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