Member postings for Martin King 2

Hi Rik,

Any particular little tricks to making these holders as I have literally hundreds of al sorts of different tips in all sizes and shapes from all the tool lots that I get? It would be helpful to try and use a few if possible.

Regards, Martin

Thanks Ian, ordered and on the way! Diagram would be great thanks, [email protected]

Cheers

Martin

Hi all,

I have just bought this small Parvalux motor for Ebay to try to use as a power up & own on the head of my Warco WM18 Mill.

The specs of the unit are:

Details
1440 RPM motor (at 24vDC)
40 RPM at output (at 24v)
will run on 12v (approx 20 rpm)
40 watt,
Gearbox Parvalux worm and wheel 2.81 Nm

Approx 60mm diameter rubber drive wheel on a 8mm shaft.

Does the 'panel' think that this is going to be suitable for my anticipated use?

I had a look at the 24V power supplies on eBay and was completely boggled by the vast number available. I know very little about electrics and wonder which would be the best thing to get. It would be great if there was a dual 12V/24 unit as I could use the 12V for other things also. Would it work as a charger for small batteries (12V) and for a small electrolysis unit?

Could the unit run the up and down on the mill at 2 speeds by switching voltage?

Given my lack of know how here should I leave well alone and get someone in to do this?

Really just trying this as I am chuffed to bits with the x axis power feed I just did using Ian Parkin's help and great idea.

Cheers, Martin

Hi All,

Finally got around to having a go at installing this unit with some very kind help and 'phone calls from Ian Parkin, many thanks Sir!.

Made the alloy plate by transfering the hole positions from the yellow plate on the mill, drilled and c/bored.

Made the steel posts and fiited to the dismantled motor plate then had a bit of head scratching to work out how to mark the holes on the alloy plate. In the end made a brass piece to fit the mill shaft at one end and the motor bush at the other, jiggled it all around with vee blocks to keep top edges square, held a small square against the transfer punch which had to have a turn of tape arounfd it as i have no metric ones. Got a pal to tap the punch whennm all square. One the DRO to my utter amazement the holes matched to within 2thou x & y!

When all bolted up , measured for the central sliding joint which was easily made. Then managed to break 2 centre drills and one tap while doing the bolt to tighten to the mill shaft! Going too fast I think so my fault.

I should mention that in the middle of all this I was using my brand new (2days) co-axial centre finder which is amazing. All was fine until I tried the little accessory that picks up a centre punch mark. I somehow had too much tension on the spring part and while adjusting it snapped off. I was not a happy bunny!

Arceuro told me that they do not carry spares and could only do another unit so was pretty much amazed when they got back to me and offered a complete second unit a a price that was way more than fair to help me out, great service!

The motor unit was finally put back on today but for some reason it only runs at one speed - pretty damn fast! the rheostat switch seems to do nothing so I guess its back on to AXI technical to see what the problem is.

£31! Doncha just love EBay

Hi all,

One of the jobs that I never seem to get around to is finishing the refurbing of the 15 or 20 or so single and double pinion hand drills that I have almost ready for sale.

The stumbling block is ALWAYS the three small springs that go in the chucks for the 3 small jaws.

I am forever waiting to come across old useless chucks that might have salvageable springs but not often that I find them.

As soon as I get one drill done they fly away on EBay as most are by Millers Falls or Goodell Pratt which are very collectable.

Any thoughts on where one might source these springs in quantity?

Also how does one specify a spring size please?

Cheers, Martin

Listed at 99p, be fun to see what happens!

Life on EBay is so full of surprises for my wife and I. Last week she came home from a boot sale with a rusty metal screwdriver that took her fancy for 20p because she could just see a name on it, when cleaned up it had a flag logo with the word PENNANT inside.

Turned out to be a screwdriver from the tool kit of a Vincent Black Shadow Motorcycle and made £165! Took 12 'phone calls about it and god knows how many emails.

Has turned out to be a nice little business as my film career comes to an end.

Martin

Neil, I just noticed that too.... tryting to list it at the moment but InkFrog playing up as usual Grrrrr!

Bikepete, thanks for the info weird items.

Will list it today at 99p for spares, see what happens.

Hmmmmm! Might give it a try........

Hi all, thanks for that.makes perfect sense. Is it of any use to anyone on here before it goes in the scrap?

Cheers, Martin

Hi all, just bought the entire tool component of quite a large shed clearance and am slowly going through all the stuff getting rid of scrap and sorting out the wheat from the chaff. Quite a nice Myford ML10 and tooling, reasonable Tool and cutter grinder and lots of odds and sods incvuding his funny little item that was in with the tool grinder but I have no idea what it is.

The motor runs very slowly with very little power behind it, easily stopped with a finger. It would appear to connect to the little piston assembly but even when cleaned and oiled it will not have enough ooomph to run. The whell apppears alittle like a diamond wheel but really smooth so perhaps not...

Any thoughts welcome.

Cheers, Martin

Sorry, I was a bit misleading when I said 'windows', they are about 150mm x 20mm is all. Sounds like it is going to be a lot of trial and even more error! I have a lot of diamond honing stones so they might help.

What do the watch and clock makers do for their glasses?

Martin

Hi All,

I have a need to make various small discs in thin glass to replace broken faces in small compasses, instruments etc, also some small rectangular windows in a couple of plane table compasses I have in my 'to be fixed' cabinet.

The glass varies between 2 & 6mm thick and the circles needed between 30mm and 150mm.

I have a variety of cutters including VITREX circular wheel cutters and diamond point cutters by Sharrat & Newth, Shaw etc but so far have only managed to break a lot of glass and get very frustrated.

Can anyone please give me any pointers, tips etc?

Some of these do need to be pretty accurate dimension wise.

Cheers, Martin

Hi All,

Always wanted to be in the medical profession and was rather hacked off wjhen I found that not a single University offered the specialist course I wanted, namely Diseases of the Extremely Rich!

Did a degree in Metallurgy and went on to run the family used car business, did some motor racing and got to drive some of the worlds finest cars and somehow make a good living out of them!

Then one day got a job acting as safety diver (a long time passionate hobby) on a producer friend's commercial film shoot where I lounged around doing nothing for 5 days, got very well fed and watered and paid really well. Thus was born a 25 year + career in the film business as I went to work briefly for his camera rental company and learnt the ins and outs of the gear and became a freelance Video Assist operator. This was my first real contact with the world of engineering as all the studios have large machine shops for making the weird stuff that filming needs, particularly the effects houses and stuff for strange camera rigs.

Got to film all over the world on features, commercials and music videos and specialised in underwater filming to get the best of all worlds. I still have a piece of an underwater camera unit but as one of our main customers was the Syrian Tourist Board we are not too busy at the moment....

More or less retired now so have the time and resources to have a lathe and mill and get to learn anew. My wife and I have a small EBay presence where we buy, sell and restore old tools, instruments and anything weird etc which is great fun. We love poking around in car boots and often get to France for a nose round! Spend far too much money at auctions buying stuff.

Been very lucky as apart from being 'generous' in build have had good health so far and good friends. Really appreciate the help and kindness found on here and would love to help out anyone who I can in my own way.

Cheers, Martin

cheers

Hi all, I perhaps should put my thinking re the cling film in perspective!

I do lots of really small jobs over the period of a week or so producing very small amounts of swarf which I brush down into the tray. I walk away at the end of the session and just carry on next time. Once a week or so I will just carefully pull the film away and have proper clean up. Just seems to save me a bit of time is all.

I do like having things fairly clean but don' t consider myself anal about it....

Cheers, Martin

Hi Mike, Many thanks for the great pics and info, much appreciated.

Martin

Hi Mike, PM sent

Regards,

Martin

Hi, Totally agree that the machines are there to be used but I quite enjoy string work on something that is tidy.

i take the point about long swarf and will keep an eye out.

martin

Hi All,

Having spent a week last month hard at various small jobs on the Myford, mainly making small parts for the various tools that we restore, I was aghast when I saw the state of the lathe, covered everywhere in fine brass and steel swarf, oil and grease everywhere.

It took a good hour of elbow grease to get everything clean and regrease all points and clean all tooling.

It ocurred to me that if I were to cover the tray with layers of cling film this might make the cleanup next time easier and it really did! Just carefully peeled back the film with all the s**t on it after brushing the lathe down. Nothing got spilt and a quick wipe round a nd as good as new!.

Just done the same thing with the mill as shown.

Probably been done before but a revelation for me!

Cheers, Martin