Member postings for matt stevens

Whats the best way to flare a 1.5" copper tube out to 2"? This is a chimney for a boiler.

I know there are flaring tools available, but they are typically for much smaller pipe....anyone got a suggestion?

Hi All,

Thanks for all the replies and information. I already have one of the burners Brian mentioned (https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.mapp-kit-with-ts4000-gas-cylinder.1000538341.html) but my concern with that is that its not going to be enough to get the 6" pipe hot enough to silver solder. What i was thinking to do was use a 'general' burner to get the assembly hot and then use my MAPP gas burner to actually do the soldering.

The other thing is that i will have alot of annealing to do so theres no way i will have enough gas (guessing).

Bullfinch have a cheap standard handle and cheap burner attachments, i am wondering if i could use a Canadian BBQ regulator and one of those handles??

And to the comment about POL gas fittings, they are not used here. Hence i would have to source a regulator locally

Hi All,

I am based in Canada and finding it difficult to locate a hand torch that can be connected to a propane tank for silver soldering a boiler. I am looking for something similar to a Bullfinch torch....the only thing i can find is froma company called Sievert in the states which are very expensive....importing a Bullfinch would give me connection problems to a gas tank and i would likely have to change the regulator.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? WHat other makes are out there and where can i buy them from in Canada?

Thanks

Matt

Brilliant.....thanks guys, alot of useful information there!

I agree the GLR one looks nice, not too expensive but then it is a 4" boiler and i don't really want to build a smaller one only to have to do another one a few years later if i make a Stuart triple. But then again i did note the comment above about practise small first....how hard can it be

When i'm back in the UK visiting, i will be calling into Congleton one day which is pretty close to Macclesfield and so Macc models is most certainly an option! And it looks to be cheaper than M-Machine for copper too.

And a step further, it looks like the plans from Reeves are exactly the one built by Chipmaster for which they sell the cast lid! Couldn't ask for more....thanks all....forums are great!

@Thor - I have ordered a copy of the book - Thanks

@JasonB - Thats an excellent boiler, i would love to copy that! I have e-mailed the modeller and asked for a copy of the plans but have not had any response. Doesnt anyone have plans for it or a similar one?

The other problem i have it getting the 6" copper tube. I have done a good search on the internet and rang a number of places and i just can't get it over here in Canada. The best i could find had 0.5" wall thickness which is over the top and extremely expensive.

I will be int he UK in August so could pick some up them. Can anyone recommend suppliers of said copper pipe either in the UK or Canada?

Thanks

Matt

Hi,

I am wanting to make a vertical boiler to use with Stuart steam engines. I want to make it big enough to use with the majority of the Stuart range - whilst i only have a D10 engine right now, i will be doing a beam and maybe the triple in future and dont want to have to make another boiler later.

So - where do a start? Fire tube, water tube or just a very basic no tube design? What size copper tube? What length? What thickness copper? Do i need to use stays? How much to bend over on the formed caps (1/4", 1/2"?), does someone have a design i could use? How many tubes? How many entry points are needed int he main boiler for water in/out, sight tube etc? What to use for insulating? Where to position things like site tube etc etc

Yes i am a beginner at this so any help and advice would be appreciated.

Thanks Matt

Quick response please.... i have come across what looks like a well looked after South Bend Model C lathe. Its local to me in Canada and the seller will even bring it over in his van.

Comes with table, 3-jaw/4-jaw, cutting tools, dogs with plate, change gears (imperial only) and a few other bits and pieces.

Only issues i think are that the cross slide has some play in it, doesnt affect cutting but you can feel the play so need to be aware of it....or i guess i can change the threaded bar and associated nut driving the cross slide. Also, the 3-jaw doesnt center brilliantly so its better to use the 4-jaw...or better, but a new 3-jaw.

$500 CAD....i think that sounds like a great deal...but want to check?

Will any 3-jaw fit or would i have to get a new south bend one?

Tool post holders - its just a T-nut style fit so i assume i could get a fast release 4-way version?

any advice?

Thanks

Matt

Thanks all for the comments....

I see no-one has used or recommended the actual stuart paints themselves! Is this because of cost or because people prefer to use their own colours i wonder?

With regards to preparing before painting - I noticed from Jasons link that the fella in question also used a dremel with a wire brush - seems like a good choice. But i wonder if taking so much of the roughness off the castings and making them all pretty smooth takes away the authenticity? Maybe its personal preference, but whilst the Stuart No.4 in the link looks absolutely superb, i can't help but thinking a bit rougher would have been better?!?

Thanks

Matt

P.S. I have a long way to go before being ready to paint anyway - just preparing!

Another question.... Once i have machined all my parts for the steam engine ready to assemble, whats the best way to clean up the castings to ensure all dirt is off, swarf etc so they are ready for painting?

Thanks, Matt

Edited By JasonB on 22/03/2014 11:58:44

Hi All,

I am new to model engineering and learning fast on my dads machines...unfortunately he cannot help me as he is badly disabled and hence why i am using his machines.

Anyway - i have started building a Stuart 10V steam engine, so far so good, but i have noticed that the machined castings dull very easily. The finish is good and smooth and the geometery is correct but they look dull. When i look at google images of this engine, the castings are shiny.....any advice?

For info i am using a diamond shaped carbide bit in the lathe tool.

Thanks

Matt