Member postings for Tom Gullan

Matt,

I too have a Warco WM16 Milling Machine. Fitting the X axis was pretty straight forward. I used double sided tape to keep the encoder in place until I marked out exactly where it should be located.

Fitting the Y axis required a little more thought. As you can see from the photo, I used a piece of square aluminium bar which required milling diagonally to accept the shape of the base and to allow the yellow end plate (side) of the table to move to its maximum travel.

The LCD Z axis DRO which comes with the machine continually gave my inaccuracies. I therefore elected to fit my own one as the photo shows,

Finally, mounting a DTI seemed to always give me issues, I could never fined the right place. I mounted an adjustable plate which can be moved up or down as the photo shows. Apologies for the angle of the photo.

I hope this is of some help.

Tom

Hi again,

My mistake, the link should read http://www.bwelectronics.co.uk

Tom

Hello,

Feedback on a DRO for my Myford Super 7 lathe

I recently asked for help regarding a DRO system for my lathe. After receiving information from fellow forum members and reading a digital back issue of MEW I decided to take the plunge and buy a DRO system from BW Electronics **LINK**. I also ordered a second system for a friend who also has the same lathe. We are both very pleased with the system. It was very easy to install and is accurate.

Although we bought the system for our lathes, if desired the sensors can be quickly and easily detached and used on a Rotary Table.

This system has the following functions:

Zero keys to set datum points, switching between imperial and metric, half finding, radius/diameter work and global/local datum points.

The sensors in this system rely on a very thin, fine wire as opposed to the more common optical type encoders. As you can see on the photo of the Y axis I had Bob (the proprietor) make up a telescopic tube to protect the wire.

My main reason for choosing this system was because of the limited space that there is available for mounting the optical type encoders, particularly on the Y axis.

Prior to installing this system I used modified digital vernier gauges on the X and Y axis. To a degree this was successful but was susceptible to coolant and at times swarf. I also experienced issues with batteries failing in the colder winter months.

If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask.

Tom

Hello,

I don't know an awful lot about DRO systems and would like to fit one to my Myford Super 7. I subscribe to both ME and MEW and read with interest David Haythornwaite's article in MEW issue 181 on BW Electronic's solution. Can anyone tell me if they use this system and how they have got on with it? I would be particularly interest in any information regarding the Super 7.

Regards

Tom

Les, Roderick,

Thank you very much for your help.

Tom

Hello,

I have an Imperial Myford Super 7 lathe with a gear box. I've read a bit about cutting threads and have cut a number of imperial sizes which have turned out well. I have been told that it is possible to cut metric threads on a imperial lathe by changing the tumbler gears. Can anyone help? Is this possible?

Regards

Tom

Gentlemen,

A very big thank you for your time and thoughts which will keep me occupied for some time to come. Very interesting...!!

Neil, I'm not particularly acquaint the with the running of this type of webpage. Have I posted my initial question in the correct place?

Tom

Michael,

I do not have a taper turning attachment. Can you recommend one which I can use on a Myford Super 7 lathe/

Tom

Hello,

I hope I've posted this question in the right place.

I'm fairly new to the hobby of Model Engineering and am looking for help to order to turn a taper on a con rod. I've never turned any kind of taper before. The con rod is just over 6" in length. The centre should be 5/16" and each end should be1/4". I have absolutely no idea how to go about turning this. Can anyone help? I have a Myford Super 7 lathe.

Regards

Tom

Gentlemen,

Once again many thanks for your help. I've made contact with a seller on eBay.

Regards

Tom

Gentlemen,

Thank you. Have you any idea where I might pick up a copy of that ME magazine?

Regards

Tom

Hello,

I'm looking for help as to the best way to machine the flywheels on a Stuart Victoria Twin. It has been suggested to me that they are machined together. Can anyone give me assistance as to how to go about doing this? I would appreciate any suggestions.

Regards

Tom

Hello,

I recently bought a job lot of various mixed up metals including silver and stainless steel. I need a piece of silver steel for a job. Can anyone tell me how to tell the difference between silver steel and stainless steel?

Regards

Tom

Edited By Tom Gullan on 02/10/2014 08:20:09

David, Les,

I'm probable a bit on the late side with this post. I've had a Warco WM16 for approximately twelve months now and am very happy with the machine. I have always required a light tap with a copper hammer in order to eject the arbour.

Gentlemen,

Thank you very much for your input. I ended up removing the headstock spindle and greasing up the gears, pulley and spindle. It now works fine. I now have a manual, I didn't realise that the lathe required so much attention.

Regards

Tom

Bazyle,

yes, the large gear which lifts up when you move the back gear lever rotates freely when the lever is in the down position.

With the pin out ( disengaged) and the back lever in the down position (disengaged) the pulley cone rotates and so dies the chuck.

Bazyle,

I've done that, the pin has been rotated and the back gear is engaged properly.

Hello,

I have a problem with my Myford Super 7 lathe. I'm new to model engineering and have recently learnt how to cut threads using my lathe. This afternoon I engaged the back gear and started to cut a thread. When I switched on the power the spindle/chuck jerked rather that turned. It appears to be seized. When I disengage the back gear lever the internal gears rotate freely. Can anyone help with this problem?

Gentlemen,

I've used a combination of less speed (a really slow feed rate) and an angle on the left side of the tool to overcome my problem. I am still left with a slight pip but it's nothing compared to what was getting.

Thank you.

Tom

Gentlemen,

Thank you very much for your words of wisdom. I'm just home from work and I'm now off to give your ideas a go.

Regards

Tom