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Member postings for Harry Souders

Here is a list of all the postings Harry Souders has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Restoring Beaver VBRP Mill
12/03/2014 06:22:03

Here's all the documentation I have....

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/565517/Beaver%20Manual.pdf

09/03/2014 23:57:56

Hmm, thanks. I'll probably end up using a bicycle brake pad for my brake.

In the past I've used dropbox.com for transferring files to others. You can upload the file to dropbox, make it public, and just share the link. You don't need to use it as a backup service or install the desktop client like they want you to.

09/03/2014 19:25:28

Thanks for those brake pictures - it shouldn't be too difficult to fabricate a simple working brake. One question - do you have any idea what material the shoe is made of?

I followed the quill removal instructions, but when I removed the clutch box, the quill spring still unwound. I guess I'll solve that problem when I reassemble it.

An easy way to figure out if your lead screw is hardened is by running a file over it. If the screw cuts easily, it's probably not hardened. If the file doesn't cut easily, the screw is probably hardened. You can try a file on a couple different materials treated to different hardnesses and you'll get a feel for it.

Lastly, my prints don't show the hidden set screw under the mic ball bearing, but that was definitely the issue. I should have taken a closer look at your writeup/pictures, but I got impatient and took a gear puller to the locking ring. The gear puller won the day, but it wasn't pretty. I can now see the hidden set screw, but I still can't push out that ball for the life of me. There must be a burr on the hole that's stopping the ball from coming out.

Is there any chance I can get you to upload your documents? If you give me a couple days, I can probably scan/upload everything I have as well.

07/03/2014 20:52:02

Hey Dan... I don't suppose I could convince you to post a couple photos of the spindle brake assembly on your mill? Also, I'd love a copy of the user manual....

Any chance I could convince you?

02/03/2014 09:41:36

Hi Paul,

I signed up just now to post in this thread. I was recently gifted an old Beaver PAL mill, and I've been trying to fix it up for the last month or so. My PAL is the smaller sibling of your VRBP - it's smaller overall, and only has (had) one powered axis. You're doing a great job so far, and I really appreciate all the detailed pictures and descriptions.

I haven't gotten as far as you, but I have started the disassembly and inspection. The good news on my mill is that it doesn't seem like it's been used much. I see very little wear on leadscrews, gears, and other bearing surfaces. But, the bad news is that it looks like the mill was abused when it was used.

Other than the usual cleaning and relubricating, I've discovered the following problems:

  • The spindle brake was removed long ago, and some monkeys vice gripped the drive sleeve to change tools.
  • The X axis used to be power-fed until a forklift operator tipped the mill on it's side and sheared off the motor mount and bent the X axis leadscrew and handle.
  • The collet locating pin inside the spindle has been sheared off. (Further inspection shows that the grease in the spindle is pretty old, and I'll have to press out the bearings out and re-lubricate everything)
  • The spline head on the worm shaft that nods the head has been sheared off.

So... there are a number of problems to overcome, but it was a free mill so I can't really complain. Worst case scenario is that I'll learn a lot trying to fix it up. So far, I've taken most of the machine apart into its smaller subassemblies, drilled/reamed the worm shaft to install a 3/4" hex head, and I've straightened the bent X axis leadscrew. My progress has slowed over the last few weeks, as I'm waiting for a gear puller to remove the collar around my Y axis lead screw.

If you have a chance, I'd love to see some shots of the spindle brake assembly, as I may end up fabricating that (it seems like parts and information are virtually nonexistent for the PAL mills). I'm loving the pictures of the mill disassembly - keep em coming. I wish I could help you, but it looks like you're farther than I am, and you already have all the lathes.co.uk info. While our machines aren't exactly the same, please let me know if there's anything I can help you with.

Before I go, a couple questions... Do you find it strange that an English mill has all ANSI screw threads? Are your leadscrews also not hardened? Did your quill return spring also make a very unnerving unwinding noise when you pulled the clutch box? Do you have any ideas on how to retension that guy?

Keep up the good work.

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