Member postings for George Sword

Many thanks to everyone for all the helpful comments and suggestions.

I have no doubt that a gantry crane would be the best solution but unfortunately my workshop has a false ceiling which rules this out.

I am going to go with a hoist crane from E-Bay and modify if required.

Thanks for the suggestions, but unfortunately the big problem that I have is that my workshop is on the small side and simply does not have the clear floor space for a engine crane.

I am looking a build a jib crane for my workshop. Probably looking to lift a maximum weight of 125kgs and have a reach of 2 meters.

I have looked at you tube and seem some nice and also some seriously scary home built cranes.

I have a good idea of what I am looking for but have no idea how to ensure that it is a safe design. There was one case on you tube where a chap used software called Fusion 360 to validate his design. Is there anyone out there who could carry out this type of stress testing on my behalf?

Many thanks to everyone for your comments.

I am going to plumb it into the manifold on the boiler top.

I was wondering if there is a right or wrong way to plumb in the pressure gauge on my Garrett.

The drawings indicated that I just tee into the steam supply from the block on the top of the boiler to the manifold that supplies the water feed valves.

Someone told me (a good while ago) that this would result in an inaccurate readings depending upon the usage of the aforementioned valves.

I suppose I could just tap into the boiler but I am unsure if this is wise and I am concerned how I would get a steam tight seal on a curved surface. The boiler is steel.

Any guidance would be much appreciated.

George

Many thanks to everyone for replying. It's all been a great help.

Regards

George

Emgee,

I usually use 10 or 12mm tooling. My lathe is a Colchester Student.

I wonder if anyone can supply me with lathe tools ground to shape to enable me to produce the semicircular grooves required for the manufacture of the formers required for the tube bender described in issue No 297 of MEW. I only require the formers for the 1/4" and the 3/16" pipes.

I will recompense for all costs including postage.

Many thanks.

Roy,

I have managed to find someone locally to help me to completion. Many thanks for showing interest and sorry to have troubled you.

George

Roy,

Many thanks for the quick reply. I live in the Glasgow area but would have no problem in getting the engine to you if required. If you give me until the weekend I will get photographs organised.

I would say the engine is 90% complete. The main parts still to be completed are as follows:

1. Guards for the gears. The metal work has been made and is probably ½ way through being stitched together. I am having great difficulty in finishing them and fitting them to the engine. Been working on this for over a year!
2. I had the motion working well but I had to take the horn plates off to work on the tender/guards and this needs to be lined up again. It took me 6 months the last time to get everything revolving and I really don’t want to go through the process again.
3. The rear tow hitch needs putting together. The pieces are there but are just held together with screws at the present time. It needs welding together.
4. All valves, water feeds, steam feeds etc need to be piped.
5. The boiler needs cladding.
6. Possibly a great deal of fettling on the work already done.
7. Above and beyond everything else, it will require to be painted. I tried painting as I went along but this has turned out to be a disaster.

George

I have been building a 4 inch Garrett over an embarrassingly long period of time and I feel that the time has come to be honest with myself and admit that it is a project beyond both my skill level and the time I can now make available. Indeed my whole interest in the project has simply waned.

Is there anyone out there who would be able to take the project over and finish to a good standard on my behalf?

Any comments or suggestion would be much appreciated.

I apologise in advance if this matter has already been covered but it would appear that there are dimensional errors in the article on a pipe bender in No.297.

Regarding the base, the bottom left hole is marked as 0.583 down from the datum point. However, this is only 0.170 down form the hole above (at 0.413). Given that both holes are 0.25 in diameter and there is a slight gap between them, the hole centers but be at least 0.25 apart. Should the measurement not actually be 0.683?

Regarding the levers, the one for odd 1/32" sizes shows the third hole from the left at 1.938. obviously does not make sense. Am I right in assuming that it should be 0.938.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks for the comments one and all.

Dinosaur,

I AM screw cutting on the lathe so is the answer different?

Hi,

I am trying to cut an external 1/4 19 BSP thread. The data book I have states the basic major diameter as 0.518 inches. Is this the diameter I have to turn the part to before starting treading? Or is it more complicated than this?

All comments gratefully received.

JasonB, the engine is a Garrett. That's good news as I am reasonably happy to work with brass.

IanT, no sucking of eggs here I assure you. Your comments are taken on board and much appreciated.

Many thanks to you both.

George S

I am not happy with the casting I have for the water pump on my 4" traction engine and I am thinking about fabricating it from stock material using silver soldering. Is this practical and if so what material should I use? The drawing says cast iron but I am not sure that I have the skill to silver solder CI. Can brass be used or is this a no no?

Any guidance in this matter would be much appreciated.