Member postings for Steve G

Thanks John,

Just looked at the link. I will look into that one. I will have to practice my arduino programming skills.

Thanks again.

Steve

Hi,

I have just completed a build of a flat 4 cylinder 4 stoke engine that uses glow plugs. I did think about using spark plugs but I thought that glow plugs would aid simplicity.

However, trying to find a circuit diagram online for a 4 x glow plug driver is proving fruitless. Does anyone have any idea where I could find such a diagram? I have looked at the option of buying a 4 x glow plug driver, but funds are limited and they are expensive devices.

I have found a single glow plug driver diagram online and perhaps modifying it to drive 4 plugs, but not sure if it would have sufficient current to drive 4 x mosfets.

I may have to revert to using 4 single cell batteries attached individually if all else fails.

Any ideas would be gratfully received.

Regards

Steve

Thanks for the replies, great reading. I think I have a workable solution.

Based on the last few replies, my solution will be to make an internal ring with an OD that fits the ID of the tube and there is sufficient room to accommodate the nuts (two off at 180 degrees) and about three times it's thickness.

As mentioned by John, I shall drill through the internal ring and then cut to the depth of the nuts a minor diameter, just below the across flats but smaller than the major diameter of the nut. By applying a minimum of heat to prevent too much deformation, press in the nuts.

The nuts will be held captive and providing both nuts are not removed simultaneously, should remain inline and serve in a pseudo anchor nut fashion. The nuts will not need to support a high torque, just a nip up, or slightly snug, as they say.

Great support guys, I managed not to scratch all of my hair out on this one.

Now I wonder, as it's black Delrin, can I weld it using black tie wraps as welding sticks? Haha, I will experiment this and report back sometime later.

Steve

Great info.

Thanks for the replies, this confirms my thoughts regarding the success of anything adhereing to Delrin reliably. I think I will have to devise a mechanical support for the nut to attach to.

The application is within a high power antenna balun assembly thus not being able to use a metal support structure. I will have to figure something out.

Thanks again, your support has been valuable.

Steve

Hi,

I am wondering which adhesive to use for delrin plastic. I need to glue an anchor nut inside a delrin tube and wondered whether cured fibreglass resin would be adequate. Any ideas?

Many thanks.

Steve

Hi Mick,

That' a great question. I have assumed that with only one compression ring, the lubricating oil in the fuel would pass the ring on the cylinder wall and disseminate in the crank case. This would then form a fine mist that would 'wet' all of the roller type bearings in the engine. Note that there are no plain bush type bearings, On the rear of the engine is a breather that emits black oil deposits so that may be indicative of lubrication occurring.

To confirm how well this is accomplishing adequate lubrication I will have to disassemble the engine but I ask those here on the forum whether my theory above is correct or they have a better explanation than I do.

Steve

Hi All,

I am stunned at the interest for this engine and very humbled by it - I work alone from time to time in my garage and no-one here, at home that is, seems in the slightest interest!

I will try and answer some questions;

Niels; The crankshaft is made up in sections as illustrated and a press fit of the crankpins (with some bearing loctite) was used. The mail problem was, on first assembly, is ending up with a lot of run-out (a banana). The remedy is to try and maintain concentricity during the removal and replacement of the same component during machining operations. It took a while getting that right and I fear is the main downfall of many of these types of engine cranks. I used 12L14 for the main crank parts with two ground silver steel rods for the crank pins.

Craig: Contact me any time, glad to support you - I have cheated in some areas and more than happy to share. I am also building the 4 cylinder boxer engine and happy to report that the crank is turning with no binding (with some tweaking) - no small feat with built up cranks. I used the same cast iron Meehanite for both liners and rings, seems to work fine. I see no reason for using steel liners, they should work fine and be less messy around the lathe although take longer to hone. I put a You tube video out on my 'Heath Robertson' cam grinder, it is a real hotch potch but works which is the main thing. Finally the heads require some thought working out what the drawings say.

John: The engine has a lot of compression, and is difficult to start due to this, but I believe that spark ignition is the way to go. I think I left too much material in the head, for fear of drilling through too much, leaving long glow plug holes - thereby leaving the business end of the glow plug a bit far up the hole. I think spark plugs would work better as this is a large engine - and finding 1.2 volts at 5 Amps is a pain, read 10 Amps for the 4 cylinder!

My cam grinder, for those interested is here - https://youtu.be/jQpSARubxKY

Steve.

Edited By Steve G on 03/01/2019 14:25:19

Hi All,

I have machined, completed an IC twin Inline Engine that might be of interest to those something doing similar.

I have run the engine but not too impressed with the glow plug ignition system, I think spark ignition would be better.

Engine running here https://youtu.be/JS3N3v8eq5I

Steve

Edited By Steve G on 01/01/2019 21:01:52

Edited By JasonB on 02/01/2019 07:05:49

Rod,

Ha ha, I hope that never becomes the case but a good reply nonetheless. The North East, does not in general, support the separatists. But I hope we remain in the UK and the Brexit situation turns out to be a success. Just think of all the cheap tools we will get from China, whether or not they are any good.

Many of us moved up here (from England) in the 80s to support the oil industry, I was one of them. And many of us remain and do not want to be separated from the rest of Britain. Although SNP are currently in power, they would not have been successful had Labour not been so fragmented at the time, they took their votes. Worrying times.

Steve

Hello folks,

I have won my case, we are now back in zone 1, no longer in the Highlands and the courier coming here does not charge extra based on the huge amount of business conducted here.I am now back in the free delivery zone without having to pay for rent in London, although I don't know how that got into the conversation..

Speaking to someone who can make a difference rather than being fobbed off by a sales person is recommended here, a lesson learned for me.

Apologies for being grumpy, I can beat the best when it comes to being grumpy!. All sorted, at least for the time being until I learn that we no longer live in the vibrant North East, and now have to pay a charge comparable for Alaska by the next courier with an out of date atlas.

Till then, thanks for reading and keep all the debates and news rolling.

Steve

Edited By Steve G on 01/08/2016 15:34:57

Correct, but I need the tool so have to pay, my issue or rant is, I am not in zone 2, I do not live in the Highlands, but am classed as living there. In this day and age, conciseness would be nice but based on legal tort, I might have an legal advantage, but I can not be honestly bothered for the sake of £12. The T&Cs were obviously not authored by someone in the legal profession as I know it as it appears to have some holes in it.

I have had my rant, thanks for reading, I will go and climb a mountain in the Highlands now to cool down... Oh wait, they are over an hours drive away.

Steve.

Thanks Neil,

Disregard the customer completely, we have no obligations to anyone!, Brilliant never thought of that one.

Steve.

John,

That's all very plausible and quite understandable. My issue is with what is stated within the dealers T&Cs where geographically positioned within the 'Highlands and islands' is not correct. The demarcation is determined from a couriers perspective and not RM / parcel force. As RM is used for all packages below a certain weight, the implication is usage of RM. Where the weight exceeds this, then packages over £60 are exempt postage costs, it does not state otherwise. I have taken this up with the dealer but continued custom vs accurate postage is not for discussion. Whether or not the courier collects or the dealer has to make the effort to go to a Parcel Force location - their convenience or my cost.

The postage to some destinations is wholly considered by the courier network and based on not having adequate infrastructure and charges go accordingly, If the dealer uses RM, as stated in the dealers T&Cs then it would be accepted that this service should be used in these circumstances. Clearly I have a choice, to only use dealers who operate the postage tariff as per the RM system. I still say the system is based on limited competition within this type of hobby and leaves few choices for us to shop around to get a fair deal. I live in zone 1, but have to pay for zone 2 with some dealers. I bought a large Yaesu radio, weighing over 10 KGs in a large box from a UK source that came via a courier free of charge, why do tool dealers treat us differently?

Before this sounds like all tool dealers treat us this way, many treat us fairly and abide by the RM rates, this one does not and will only be used as a last resort for my requirements and having spent in excess of £15k in the last two years in this area perhaps I am meagre in their eyes, I look forward to being treated as a valued customer and not some one who resides in an 'inconvenient area'.

I live beside a main trunk route, A96, and hardly a back road meandering up a hill somewhere.

Steve

Hello folks,

I ordered a nice tool from a certain tool dealer in the UK and as the sum exceeded that for free postage, I felt I had a reasonable deal, not great, but the dealer has to make a reasonable profit so the price was accepted. That was until they told me that I do not live where I have been living for 30 years!

You see, I live in a AB51 postcode, and many couriers think this is in the Highlands, well it's not. Checking the Parcel Force guide, it is firmly within the bastions of Zone 1, which is the same zone as London, Manchester, Birmingham etc.Oh no it's not, said the dealer, it's in the Highlands because Sid the white van man tariff rate states it. Well, who can argue with Sid the white van man, I tried to explain that the Royal Mail network, whilst not being cheaper in some areas, have the largest network and can, through Parcel Force, give a better than courier rate. The response was, 'oh we don't use them, now you have to pay the postage'. I then stated that if orders are over £60 then it's free delivery, as per their T&Cs, They responded by'Never mind that you are in the Highlands', so to those few who live in the Highlands (and all zone 1's too, yes that's London Manchester etc) the spend over £60 free postage does not apply to you either, they just like to hide the fact as it's not defined in the T&Cs.

So whilst living 'not in the Highlands' or even perhaps in Brixton Town, London, you might not know that you actually live in the Highlands too, especially if Sid the white van man courier thinks so. I live in postal Zone 1, not 2 which is highlands and Islands, or Zone 3 which is Northern Island. So the tools dealer, who has a big advertisement here on this site, is a bit of a self centered business type who portrays a dodgy shape changing allegiance to us hobby machinists and would trick you into paying more rather than using a fair and just system for us all.

Caveat Emptor, I say, I will not be purchasing any more from this bunch as their website is not truthful and accurate, you need to be aware of some of the devious little practises they get up to to wring a bit more brass out of us.

Now, the Royal mail network can be more expensive in some areas that are easily accessable and due to the competition from various couriers, not be the cheapest option, however, when you start getting to the extremities of the UK, couriers are no longer the best option as they have not built up their infrastructure effectively so be sure to check that cheeky little tool dealers are not ripping you off on postage rates whist working at their commission rates from the couriers.

Have a nice day...

Thanks Mark and Jason.

If I was making both sets of gears from scratch then I would have used Module sizes and 20 pa, however, or unfortunately, the gear I need to make has to mesh with a 32DP, 14.5 pa, which then meshes with more gears so I am stuck for a simple solution.

I have had some success and would like to share this with others who have similar resourcing issues. I contacted a Company called CR Tools in Sheffield who make various tools and they may be able to help, speaking with the chap there, I might get a 40mm OD with 16mm ID with the 32DP 14.5 pa made for a very reasonable sum. (here we go, mixing imperial with metric again- the model makers conundrum!)

If I get a cutter from CR I will post here to advise others on the forum.

Many Thanks

Steve

Edited By Makila on 01/12/2014 10:54:20

Hi all,

I am looking for a involute #7 gear cutter;

14.5 PA

32 DP

14 -16 Teeth

Anyone have one for sale or know of a UK supplier, I have tried a number of options but losing heart with the UK, it all seems to be in the US, but not all suppliers deliver small items overseas. I have kept an eye on Ebay but no luck yet.

Many thanks

Steve

Ah yes Ducati, I rebuilt a 900ss for a friend. Once completed and the engine running in the frame, the kick starter spring broke after a weeks worth of use. Now, the Ducati 900 ss engine is built around that spring, so other than a nice looking bike, the bungee on the kick starter lever was norm!

It also had a rubbish oil filter system that caused a rapid demise of the crank bearings if not spotted early, and the bevel gear shimming, no-one in the UK supplied shims at the time or even knew what they were for, was done a treat if you made them yourself. Now Italian electrics, that's another story, but I did like the Desmo valve gear... So I stick to Nortons.

But I digress from turning an milling.

John,

Thanks for the info, the head was simple to remove using the timber method.

There is no illustrated parts assembly (or manual) for this precise mill and during removal of the column I discovered a large gas strut! All these mills do not reference the gas strut at all and care needs to be taken when working on these heavy components. I had to carefully replace the column and disassemble the column internals so I could remove the strut. This meant raising the head attachment as far up as it would go to release the gas strut compression to make it safe to disconnect.

There was a lot of moulding sand and rough casting edges within so leather gloves prevented shredded hands. A clean and regrease is next and I will set the mill's head for perpendicular and tramming when it all goes together. It is quite a basic design but all parts are very heavy even though it has been reduced to manageable bits, it takes two to lift each of the parts. Here is what it looks like. Will update next week when it all goes back together.

Sorry the picture is on it's side... its easier to work on with the world turned 90 degrees

Steve

Thanks for the info John,

I will have a look tomorrow to see if it is straight forward.

Steve

Well today should have seen the mill mounted to the stand and a start made on the clean up, unfortunately the tray was for a 25 sized mill so too small. I will have to wait until the right tray arrives next week.

The stand is bolted to the floor and is level so at least that is done, see the pictures.

Has anyone the process for removing the head unit? I will need to remove it to reduce lifting weight and I will clean it at the same time.

Cheers, Steve.