Member postings for Stuart Bridger

Agreed, also many happy memories of the 7 years I spent with BAe. Very strange to think that my first workplace is now a museum. The museum is fantastic and well worth a visit. Every time I do go it is a bit gut wrenching as to what the site used to be.

Just starting out with the "hot stuff" and was wondering what people use for eye protection when silver soldering. Standard clear safety specs or a green tint?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Gets my vote.

433MHz radio would seem to be the answer to this. The TX and RX modules are readily available at low cost and typically have a range of about 300m. I know nothing about railway signaling but use these modules (built into a solution from a commercial vendor) for remote control of clay pigeon traps. The cable free solution is a real boon to having to run 100's of metres of cable across muddy fields. It would need someone with good electronics skills to convert the raw modules into a solution though.

I notice RS have just launched a new 3D printer @ £599 +VAT

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/3d-printers/8286356

It's not just model engineering shows that are in decline. I work in the IT industry and we are facing similar issues.
Very high stand costs, very high commitment in the form of time to man the booth and dwindling attendances with difficult to quantify return on investment. I didn't go to Sandown this year, I went last year and found the journey (from Oxford) didn't really justify it. The exhibits were great and I had some good conversations on some of the club stands. I came away very inspired. A couple of guys described as the youngest person there, which was flattering (I was 49 at the time). I would do Harrogate again though, as although a trek, I could drop the wife shopping and have a nice weekend in the Dales.

Thanks all , looks like Celotex is the answer then.

Edited By Stuart Bridger on 13/12/2014 11:39:36

My workshop is an a single garage with a single skin aluminium up and over door. Any ideas for the best way to insulate? I don't want to add too much weight or additional thickness to the door, and it still needs to function. 50mm Celotex seems one option, or perhaps bubble foil secured with battens. Another slightly off the wall solution would be to panel the door with a thin sheet and then fill the gap with expanding foam? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Are you sure it is a single phase motor?
The connections sound a bit like how you would wire a 3 phase motor to run off single phase using a motor run cap?

While no one like to pay "extra" charges, it does show a transparency on behalf of the vendor about what you are getting and the true cost. Nothing is for free in this world. Charges are generally hidden in the product cost. Use of Credit card costs the vendor, so why not pass the charge on?

While I feel the Hi-Fi debate should be confined to Hi-Fi forums, I just had to comment.

Hi-Fi is one area where UK manufacturers still reign, Naim, Michell, SME to name just a few.
I do have a foot in both ME and Hi-Fi camps. I have a reasonable Vinyl and CD/digital system. Good vinyl on a decent system will blow away CD any day. CD was a seriously compromised format. The higher resolution digital downloads are getting much closer. I agree vinyl is not perfect, but it delivers a really enjoyable sound.. As for the comment "I will leave this now as you are obviously convinced that your expensive set up is the bee's knees and who am I to disillusion you?" Anyone who comes around to our house and has a listen on my system is completely blown away by the sound quality. I have also had a very enjoyable day at Naim Audio's HQ in Salisbury where after touring their factory we spent the afternoon listening to music on a £100K system. Outrageous cost - yes( but not the most expensive available), enjoyable - immensely. Would I spend that money, no. But I will spend £20 on new vinyl rather than £10 on a new CD, because it is much more enjoyable. Pure nostalgia absolutely not. I also enjoy the vinyl I bought 30 years ago, still going strong and sound much better with the newer kit I am playing it.

Chipmaster 5' x 2'6" based on their foundation plan. This doesn't allow for the end cover swing, which adds significantly more. I have mine with the tailstock end against the wall and the headstock about 2' 6" out from the wall, so I have some access behind. Chippie electrics are on the back of the headstock and every time I have to retrieve a part/spanner. etc from behind, it is a royal PITA So access needs to be considered.

A set of Actetal replacement handles for some saucepans did the trick for me

My Stuart 10V drawing are covered in pencil conversions from fractions to decimal. An annoyance yes, major issue not really. As for metric, don't see the need. I can quite happily work in either metric or imperial. Have to say that I am happier with the latter. I learned metric at School in the '70s only have to learn imperial when I started in the aircraft industry in the '80s.

It's interesting to compare this forum, with that associated with Military Modelling (link at the bottom of the page).
I drift over there from time to time for a bit of nostalgia, as it was my primary hobby in my teens. Their forum is completely dominated by build threads. which are completely open. You do sometimes get whole pages of "nice work", etc. but it doesn't seem to detract from the main topic. My personal view would be to leave as is.

A bit more information on what I did with my Chipmaster.

I stripped out the original control gear, this was not necessary, but I wanted to retain the original lever FWD-OFF-REV control. The Inverter 3 phase outputs were wired directly to to the motor.

The control lever and interlock switches for the covers were wired into the DC control inputs on the VFD.

I was lucky that the Colchester suds pump was dual voltage, so this was re-set for 240V operation and wired into a fused outlet. via a new front mounted switch As it is a low power motor, I added a motor run capacitor to give the 3rd phase. No need to purchase an inverter for such a small motor.

The 29Hz technique I posted above will result in lower torque at higher speeds, but that is not an issue for me in my home workshop scenario.

BTW I retained the mechanical variator and also added a speed control pot to the inverter. this results in coarse and fine speed controls.

yep, still got my Zeus from 1980, bought it as an apprentice

No need to reconfigure the motor.

If you set the inverter base frequency to 29Hz you can run a 440V motor from a 240V VFD.

Colin Gibson @ Inverter Drive Supermarket (no connection other than a satisfied customer) has a good article on this. https://www.inverterdrive.com/HowTo/240V-Supply-to-a-400V-AC-Motor/

I run my Colchester Chipmaster using this technique and it runs fine. Colin was also very helpful in helping me specify the kit required

Stuart

Clickable link added.

Edited By John Stevenson on 12/07/2014 00:34:41

I use a Glanze indexable parting tool from Chronos. Works a dream. I have also used HSS with no issues.

I would recommend flood coolant. I must admit I have never really worried too much about speed. I have a VFD and tend to ramp up the speed as the cutting diameter reduces, which just "feels" better.

I have a chipmaster which was exhibiting similar problems. I can't help with the specifics of the screw jack adjusting arrangements. But the chippy also has four allen bolts holding the headstock down. Getting these loose on a 50 year old lathe was no mean feat, in the end i think I only got three undone. Instead of tapping on the chuck, I just used a rubber mallet gently on the headstock casting, which would eliminate any possible issue with the spindle bearings. It worked fine..

Regards

Stuart