Member postings for Victor francis

Phil, just gave it another go, the centrifugal switch is not coming out. It appears to be slipped over the end of the spindle.

The only option is some fiddly messing around to use small connectors in order to extend the wires which have broken off.

I am hoping the broken wire was the cause of the centrifugal switch not working properly, either that or there is something wrong with it and I broke the wire after the issue.

Ohil, thanks for the suggestion.

I have removed all screws, but thought the centrifugal switch could not be removed unless the motor was split. I will have a look at it again.

To be honest that switch covers up the remaining bits of wire, with it removed it would be much easier to splice or add connectors to whatever wire is left.

When the coil wires were extended copious amounts of solder was used, this made the connection brittle and so the wire just broke. The same issue is on all the three wires,

Noel, that's very kind of you. I would love to come to the MMEX but unfortunately can't.

I am in London, actually close to Alexandra Palace. Shame I never visited when it was on there as I understand it won't return.

The bearings in the motor are fairly okay, but noisy enough to be replaced. It would be ideal to sort the lot out in one go.

Next week I am picking up an Unimat SL, hopefully it is complete enough to be used straight away and I can resume making turntable parts.

Again, thank you.

Victor.

Seeing as the wires are too short, and the casing won't budge, I wonder whether some sort of mini wire connector could be used.

Soldering another wire to what is left visible would be impossible, but the connectors I am looking at seem to have a mechanical connection not needing soldering.

Dave, thank you.

I did think the bearings were holding everything together and planned a visit to a local mechanic for a puller.

The issue now seems to be the two run wires, looks like they have come apart where spiced together. It's either happened due to me messing around with the casing or that was the original issue causing an intermittent contact.

The bearings are probably pressed on hard to begin with and got tighter when the last owner attempted to hammer the spindle deforming it in the process.

When I first bought the lathe I intended replacing the motor's bearings, I gave up when I realized the interference fit was too tight for the tools I have.

The start wire is too short, nothing can be done without the motor splitting apart. So far the gap between parts is around 5mm, no amount of tapping ( quite forcefully) around the edge of either shell increases the gap.

It's turned into a mechanical puzzle.

The brown start wire, which showed intermittent continuity with the brown run wire, has come undone where it was spliced. I removed the heatshrink and it just came off. Maybe it was me messing around with it or maybe it just happened due to vibration and crap soldering.

Might have been the reason for the attempted starts, maybe it was not receiving constant power and kept going back to the start phase.

Biggest problem is that the wire is too short to allow for it to be spliced on again without taking the motor apart.

I am useless with a multi-meter but have a cheap one here. Not sure whether this means anything, there is continuity between the yellow run wire and the post where the brown start wire attaches with brown wire removed.

There is no continuity between the brown run wire and the start post, but there seem to be continuity between the brown run wire and the brown start wire. The continuity is intermittent and wiggling the brown run wire seems to affect it.

Still trying to split the b.... thing apart.

Phil, you are right, that is the centrifugal switch. Unfortunately the only visible part is its top. No contacts are visible.

Thank for giving me hope, Duncan. The problem is now getting into it in order to check that switch.

The strangest part of it all is the lack of any information about old Parvalux motors online. There must have been enough people taking these things apart.

This happens more and more often with vintage turntables and tonearms, years ago there was a wealth of information online, now just a mass of commercial entities trying to flog something.

Is there a way to split to motor apart which is eluding me?

Try as I might, the motor won't split. Maybe the shaft is deformed.

The starting and attempt to run is cyclical, the motor kicks in, fails to run and kicks in again. This happens every 5 seconds or so. It happened under load and with load removed. It basically does this as long as power is going through it on a continuous loop.

After reading about the centrifugal switch I thought that might be the issue, but would the motor start at all if that was the problem.

The connection "plate" is marked, start on the left wire and run on the two right ones.

Not been able to get into the motor is frustrating, with the bolts removed there is nothing else which would hold the parts together.

Looking at the protruding part of the spindle visible with the bearing cover removed, I can see some marring to its edge. Someone has obviously been there before and might have deformed it.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I have given it the sniff test as soon as things went south, couldn't smell anything.

I just need to get in the motor to have a look at its innards.

Emgee,

I will have to crack the thing open to do that. The spindle is quite soft and even using some wood to protect it from the hammer, it mushroomed slightly.

Tomorrow I shall try a local mechanic for a puller, hopefully that will split the thing up.

I am now wondering whether the running coil is burned out or there is some mechanical part which has failed.

Emgee, thanks for your efforts. It's greatly appreciated.

As far as the motor being different than you have seen before, it would be. Nothing in my life is straight forward.

Emgee,

No, no type, just a reference number: Ref n-SD 18/003696

I was reading about start and running windings, could it be that what I am hearing is the start winding kicking in over and over again?

This motor has been running really well for so long, but I have never been able to take it apart to service it.

If there is no internal capacitor I am buggered. Here are some photos of the wiring connector, no capacitor in sight.

Yes, contacting Parvalux might be the next step.

Michael, so there is a capacitor in the motor? It's frustrating because these days online information mostly consists of someone trying to sell you something, rather than folk taking things apart.

Michael, I should have said Condenser motor. That's what it says on the label. No, there is no capacitor on the exterior.

This is the motor, the cover on the rear of the motor just covers the connection block. No capacitor visible there.

Emgee and Noel, thank you both. I do hope it's just a capacitor and not burned windings.

I am trying to split the motor now in order to look inside, unfortunately it's not playing the game and won't open. Tried some hammer persuasion, with a block of wood between it and the spindle, but still no luck.