Member postings for Martin Botting 2

Thanks Bill and Jason I looked at the mating gear and that drawing has the same annotation but with the numbers 45 so problem is sol-ved.

I am now reaching for the S H Muffet catalog to see if they have such items or bracing myself for the horrors of making them!

while I have my question head on would some kind person give me some help with this part of the project. its the drive gear (bevel gear) the annotation to the left i am presuming is the number of teeth? the module type and the ratio with its mate of 3 to 1.

Dear all.

Thank you for your help I knew I could count on many heads to solve this problem. I have recently invested in digital callipers and mic so will try the push button cure first. Zero the calliper or mic and then switch between mm and imp…the fixtures will be metric as per drawing and the division work needed is bi-lingual.

The project is in fact a model marine one a voith propulsion unit the builder of the prototype propellors have produced some model drawing which I think is very good of them in these days of industrial secrets its nice that a big company like Voith have gone to the trouble of making up drawings for us miniature makers. Mr Ashley Best in his recent articles stated that his fantastic trams were not model engineering but merely models I disagree his work is engineering in the truest sense but just on a small scale.

If any other marine modellers or come to that engineers fancy having a go at this interesting mode of propulsion here is the link:

http://observethebanana.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/06/modelvsp.pdf

From personal experience these units in a 12" - 1 foot version are incredible to use you can literally make a boat dance.

thanks to everyone that posted a reply I might be bold and do a blog on the build as its a bit outside what I have done in the past, it will be a challenge. And like my usual method I am sure I will built at least 4, one that works and the other 3 in the scrap pile.

Forum posters,

I have a project on the bench in it's infancy i.e. in my head. I have got some drawings that are annotated in german and my knowledge of that is as good as my knowledge of rocket science I would like to ask for some pointers from the brains trust would it be wise/ fool hardy, or downright brain damage if I convert the dimensions using a conversion app into Thou and attempt to machine to that. I would not like to think that the conversion of my lathe and mill to imperial lead screws and dials etc would cost so some recommendations please.

Many thanks.

The Port of London authority (PLA) and its predecessor the Thames conservancy used to mark plying places with the same mark as the broad arrow. Plying places were like wapping stairs, Mill stairs and Chiswick causeway that Watermen were allowed to pick up fares in much the same way as cabbies. (boring fact No 3976!)

Thank you all for your help, I have just got home from work with two bits of 2" round BMS that just happened to get caught in my work bag and will go through all your suggestions and blow the dust off the mangle handle I made a long while back and sit down the workshop and give the leadscrew a looking at and a talking to.

Again many thanks to you all, to be able put it into words that I can follow is a great help, for someone that only had a secondary education with engineering as a 1 hour lesson a week trying to recall all the terms and phrases to try and describe something is hard, and your suggestions will be followed thanks again all!

My thoughts were going down the same route with the use of the mandrel handle (nice ring to that) and winding it backwards keeping the half nuts engaged, theoretically the tool, which is set over to the prescribed angle will stay in the same grove, yes?

The slop (understatement) in the lead screw must need taking up, is there a suggested maximum slop for a lead screw?

I should have said I was attempting to cut the internal spindle nose thread 1 ⅛th" X 12tpi of the Whitworth form (please forgive me Mr Whitworth for i know not what I do)

The lathe is imperial and the job was being held in the four jaw chuck. I was taking it all very slow and made sure the overhang of the screw cutting tool was at the bare minimum.

Hi all.

As a daily new bodger I have run into a problem thats vexing, namely screw cutting on my ML7. I was trying to make an ER32 chuck for my lathe and using a mixture of words and music of Mr H Hall and the step by step video guide of John aka doubleboost on Youtube and I have so far messed up two billets.

The problem I have is after boring out and putting the relief groove then the trouble starts, I do the scratch cut fine, cross slide out wind back cross slide back in, cut on. wait for the number to come round on the tread dial,Clunk in with the half nut off we go again… on the 3rd pass I notice I am making a second thread! D*$n n blast ( better than that in reality)…..

Now I found the apron was moving and on closer inspection the caps screws were rocking! threads buggered, Hellicoil got it clamped down tight, I renewed the bronze bushes as well while it was off so no more floppy hand wheel…

Next thing I noticed was the lead screw does have some slop in the horizontal plane could this be the problem? If so would some kind soul tell me roughly how much slack there should be in the lead screw, if none how best to cure it. Or am i best suited to needle work…. PLEASE HELP!

The firm I work for might notice the bright mild bar stock is shrinking, but the steel making industry will be giving me man of the year award.

Many thanks in advance…

"Liquorice" anywhere in the item description? I do feel for you as I have done the self same thing but never had the "bottle" to publicly admit my foolhardiness. Years ago when we had the "oil shop" where you could get everything from step ladders to dolly blue bags and you could feel/look at the item you could have some comeback and more than likely the drills would be made in the UK. Would you care to name and shame to stop other folk falling for the same thing. ME FOR ONE! (Love a bargain me, and MUG is the tattoo on my forehead) and if the vendor gets the hump for bad mouthing him so be it… send em back and name and shame. this is the price we pay for modern communication, lets face it the whole world is opened up by the internet, this forum being one, otherwise we would still be writing dear sirs, and the ME would be 50 pages of letters of shipwrecked wanna-be engineers craving help.

Good luck and thanks for sharing!

Happy new year to all posters and subscribers to ME! Does anyone know if there have ever been any drawings for a 3 ½" southern M7 tank loco's done?

Or perhaps anyone has built one?

I fancied building a loco in the "handbag" size and I have a liking for southern motive power and am thinking of what to have a bash at. The list of possibles are a 'charlie', southern'd simplex.

Would there be any hints at the "well known supplier" I would like to fit a DRO to my warco mill as the hand wheel dials are a pain and when calibrated with a couple of clocks the wheels seem to tell fibs.