Member postings for GarryC

Thanks everyone, some really useful tips again. Hoping the replacement cylinder will turn up soon as I would like to have another go at that next (with the new Keats Angle Plate hopefully making things a bit easier..). Meantime though I will take a look at some of the smaller bits and pieces - the bar guides next...

Regards

Allan.

Day 16.

Drilling the Flywheel Grub Screw.

No problem with this but I have ended up with a bit of a rough edge around the hole. I guess this has something to do with drilling in at an angle (the drawings show to do this) - I think if I was doing it again I would try a slower speed (the drill was set at its highest) also a smaller drill to start (the hole was for 2BA thread and I used two drills, 2.5mm and 4mm), maybe a bit of tape over the boss to start....? It doesn't really show unless you look for it, but that's not the point of course..

Drilling the Flywheel Grub Screw.

Tapping the Hole..

The Grub Screw Fitted.

Regards

Allan.

Thanks Jason, I can see that drilling is going to be awkward - thats a great tip if I get stuck..

Yes I agree the long studs were a bit dangerous, I can see that I need to get some more bits and pieces for workholding....

Cheers

Allan

Day 15.

The Flywheel (7 inch).

No problems so far, need to drill and fit the grubscrew next.. It was a bit awkward not having suitable packing and I was a bit worried of overtightening - but I've managed (I've not accumulated much in the way of offcuts etc yet...)...

The Flywheel faced and bored the 1st side.

Setting up to do the reverse side.

The Flywheel, needing to drill and fit the grubscrew next.

Regards

Allan.

Edited By JasonB on 01/01/2015 08:20:08

Hi Neil

A big thanks for that, it looks like just what I need to make things a bit easier with the cylinder but useful for other things too by what I've read - I'm going to get one...

Regards

Allan

Day 14.

My woes continue..

Failed at the 1st attemp with the Cylinder. After the problems with the blunt tool spoiling the port faces I continued and started to face off the ends and bore the Cylinder on the faceplate. With hindsight I think for me at the moment it would have been better to have put into the 4 jaw - I was stating to feel a little easier with the dti and 4 jaw. I just could not center the bore correctly on the faceplate... But in addition to my own shortcomings there seemed to be something else not quite right as the facing off was not very good - I eventually relised that the top slide had massive free play, loose even as I could see it moving! A slight tighting with the spanner and all was well but not before me having been attacking the end faces with it....

To be honest though I t was always unlikely I would get the through the Cylinder at the 1st attempt - have ordered another one. Meantime as the faceplate is on I can have a go at the flywheel..

Thanks Ian for the boring bar info, I may have a go at that one day....

The Cylinder on the faceplate.

A real shocker all round..

Regards

Allan.

Edited By JasonB on 01/01/2015 08:17:58

Day 13.

Things not going very well lately..

Yesterday I ordered a (cheap) set of boring bars to include the longest one at 4 1/2 inches, but it turns out when it arrived to be 3/12 inches - there won't be much to hold on to in the tool holder when doing the cylinder. Think I may have to reorder..

After more thought I plan to use the faceplate to face the ends and bore the cylinder as per the book 'Building The Victoria' (not used one before). The one suppled with the Lathe has a note to say that the chuck guard has to be removed to use it (bit surprised with that, especially these days..), also the guard mounting bolt catches on the back of the plate, preventing its use. I managed to modify so that it now fits and runs ok (still no guard though.) but not without totally blunting the lathe tool - something I had not realised until spending some time today trying to face the cylinder ports with it, it has left some marks and resulted in my going slightly undersize on the main port face (thats my excuse anyway), so also not so good. The book says to remove 'just over 1/32 inch' from the port face as cast (hadn't noticed that when asking for help on here earlier).....

Its surprising how easy it is to forget the obvious when trying to learn new things.. The main thing is though that I am learning!

Having a go with the faceplate next..

The port faces faced off. (photo is a bit distaughted)..

Regards

Allan.

Edited By JasonB on 01/01/2015 08:16:26

Found all that very interesting, thanks very much Jason and Andrew.

I think I will go with doing the ends and bore first...

Regards

Allan.

The Cylinder and associated bits next..

But first can I ask a question please - The first thing I was going to do is face the port face. The only measurement on the drawings that seems relevant to the amount to face off is a measurement of 7/8 inch to the port face from the centre of the cylinder bore. It seems that with the cylinder port face outwards in the chuck I need to be able to measure from the bore centre to the chuck face and add the 7/8 inch to know how much to face off. Could anyone please suggest the best way to measure this? The only way I can think off is to measure the bore as cast then measure the thickness of the cylinder wall etc but I can see the potential to get this wrong - is this the only method or is there a better way?

Hope that makes sense..

Thanks very much.

Regards

Allan

Day 12.

Just drilled and fitted the Crosspin today.

Used a 2.4mm drill for the 3/32 supplied Crosspin (although 2.3mm may have been a tighter pressfit) -applied some adhesive to the pin (Bondloc B601).

Thanks for the parting off suggestions, I will stop using the cloth!

Setting the depth stop and lining up to fit the Crosspin.

The Crosspin fitted.

Regards

Allan.

Edited By JasonB on 01/01/2015 08:15:33

Hi Norman

Thanks for the comments, I agree the cloth is far from ideal / dangerous - I do only place when parting off, the tray is a neat idea - I assume there must be a 'correct' procedure for protecting the bed when parting off, especially larger heavier items?

Regards

Allan

Day 11.

Getting on with the Crankshaft. Need to drill and fit the crosspin next..

Parting off the Crankpin. First time I have used the Glanze Tool. Much easier and a far better job than the 'ordinary' parting blades that I struggled with before, not even a hint of binding or having to wind out..

The Crosspin cut to approx length.

The finished Crankpin.

The Crankshaft. No Crosspin yet..

Regards

Allan.

Edited By JasonB on 01/01/2015 08:13:33

Hi Steve

Yes I did too on my first attempt (although I simply filed it away), but after Ian mentioned it I took a closer look at the Photo of Victoria in the current Stuart Catalog (76th edition) and the rib is visable in the photo. Don't know why it's not shown on the drawings though.

Your model looks terrific and runs superbly, far above what I can expect myself at the moment - but I hope to improve on future projects...

Regards

Allan

Day 10.

So far so good with the Crankpin. Just need to face the threaded section to length and Part Off..

Turning down the Crankpin.

Threading the Crankpin.

The Crankpin Thread. Had to remove an annoying small burr 'blob' at the end of the thread which prevented the Crank from fitting again after I had threaded, used a needle file and magnifying glass...You can see it in the photo..

Testing the 2BA Thread. Nut fits very well..

Regards

Allan.

Edited By JasonB on 31/12/2014 15:14:20

Day 9.

Replacement Crank arrived - its good to be able to get back on track..

2nd attempt at the crankweb. I stupidly turned into the 'rib', silly mistake but not crucial and once painted I can live with it (the photo makes it look worse than it is).. Just need to clean up the scratch marks from the parralles another lesson learned..

This time done on the Lathe and the bores should be parrallel.

Regards

Allan.

Edited By JasonB on 31/12/2014 15:11:10

Hi Ian

They look very similar, not sure my eyes would be up to doing one that size though..

Regards

Allan

Just to say that I've been waiting for a new crank to arrive, after being made aware on here how important it is to get the bores parrallel I was not confident I had done so at my first attempt - I had done it on the drill - although it looked ok to the eye (mine anyway). I can see that I would have been better to have set it up properly on the Lathe and done it there. Hoping it may arrive today or very soon as it's been ordered a few days now....

Regards

Allan

Hi Norman and Roy

Thanks for the info, I have been converting all measurements into metric since what little drills etc I have are all in metric, but I am beginning to see that sometimes it pays to think and stay in imperial...

Roy you are quite right I am a complete novice to model engineering, but have had a lifelong interest / passion for the 'old' mechanical world, especially steam - I've never had the chance to attempt Model Engineering until recently - all my working life I (like all too many nowadays) I have always worked all the hours going with no time for anything else..

I did about 35 or so years ago have an apprenticeship as a fitter / turner with British Steel and spent a couple of years training on the Lathe etc - but apart from remembering that I loved it I have forgotton all the info (but not the people) - I had to leave to find better paid work at the time.. Every now and then I come across or do something that I can remember and it brings back some great memories.. There were a lot of very skilled men there then (all over the country in those days..) - can't help but feel sad they and the skills have mostly dissappeared. There are many extremely skilled people on here of course - I dont know how much longer they will put up with my endless simple questions!

This is my first real project although about a year ago I did complete a 'simple oscillating steam engine' from bar stock and plans that I found on the internet - this is my first to include any castings and fittings etc... At the risk of it lowering the tone of the site there is a pic below, a simple thing I know and not very well done, but I absolutely loved doing it. A house move has come between now and then..

Thanks everyone for all your help so far..

Regards

Allan.

Edited By JasonB on 31/12/2014 15:09:56

Hi Jason

Yes I agree, I can see that now after doing it, it would have been easier I think - I must get a selection of boring tools..

Hi Norman

Thats interesting, I have wondered about how easy they would be to get right. I'll steer clear for a while and remember Jason's advice next time..

Cheers

Allan

Hi Roy

Sorry, the description for that photo is misleading - I had to turn down the entire length. The supplied bar for the shaft was I think 11.1+mm, I only had an 11mm reamer for the bearings so I had to cleanup a little. I could maybe do with an adjustable reamer set..

The tailstock is extended to reach over the saddle in order to get the tool to the end of the bar - the Lathe is very small and sometimes a bit short on space. Although that being said I am very very pleased with it - SIEG SC4.

Regards

Allan