Member postings for GarryC

Hi Steve

Thats really useful thanks, if I get halfway as nice as that I'll be more than happy! I see you have drilled two holes for the fork, that seems like a good idea..

I'm just about to go and make a start...

Cheers.

Allan.

Hi Jason

Brilliant thanks for that, I'll go about it as you suggest and come back to ask about the turning later...

Cheers

Allan.

No more progress over Christmas but just a little update nonetheless as its all part of my little story of the engine build...

I did get about half way through doing the the Piston Crosshead but managed to snap a 2mm drill bit while drilling the tapping hole on the lathe (mild steel). Seemed to go for no reason - I had when first starting out bought a 'cheap' set of drill bits, about 200 various sizes for about £50 I think it was, and I've had several of the smaller sizes go now. The individual sizes I buy seem to be a much better quality and i'll stick to buying this way in future I think... Anyways I couldn't get the snapped bit out and so am waiting on a replacement piece of bar to try again..

Meantime I thought I would have a go at the Con Rod. This looks like a really interesting project all on its own and a bit daunting at the moment if I'm honest - I expect this will likely take several attempts.. Workshop time is going to be difficult for a while as well (my wife had an accident while walking the dog Christmas morning and fractured her leg, in plaster for another two weeks yet - we spent Christmas morning at the hospital!), so I think its going to be a case of lots of little sessions as and when. This may turn out to be not such a bad thing as I thought I would post each little bit of progress on here and hope to get some advice along the way, I think I will need all the help I can get with this part - maybe collate the steps into a single post at the end for easier reading..

I would like to do the turning between centres as I've never tried this before and have ordered a small set of (cheap!) straight leg Lathe Dogs which I hope to run from the faceplate, also a small 2MT Live Centre with an 'extended nose' which I hope will make getting the tool in to workpiece end easier and better than the 'dead' centre I have now. First steps I think will be to face, drill and ream the big and little ends and then setup to centre drill the bar ends, maybe another hole for the internal end of the fork, not sure on this yet? The bar supplied is only 7 inches long so I hope that will be enough to do it this way..

This is the Connecting Rod Drawing. (sorry its a bit fuzzy). There is a separate brass bush to make for the Little End and shown in the drawing.

and the 7" long supplied bar to make it..

Hope to start posting progress again soon..

Cheers and Happy New Year!

Allan.

Edited By Allan. on 31/12/2013 13:23:42

Hi Steve

Ah, I see now, thanks, what a neat idea! I'll add a blank arbor to my shopping list - well worth trying I think. I've lost count of the number of times parallels have slipped out while setting up....

Cheers

Allan.

Hi George.

Roy is correct you can buy direct from Stuart Models (I had to order a replacement myself as I ran out for the last gland..). The link is here http://www.stuartmodels.com/part_cat.cfm?cat=6 and the part code is BX490.

(Don't worry if your confirmation email doesn't specify what you have purchased as you might expect, you just get a reference number - the service has always been 1st class for me..)

Hi Steve

Yes I can see the advantages, it looks very useful. I would like to have a go at making one but wonder if I would be able to get the cast iron to sit exactly square on the thread - may need to up my game a bit first..

Merry Christmas all.

Allan.

Hi Julian

Thanks, its bits of info like this that is really useful, I did use some 3 in 1 oil beforehand but only a tiny amount as I wasn't sure if it was really the thing to be doing (I've not heard of 2 in 1 before..)...

and have not yet had much luck with turning small diameters using the tailstock to steady using the replacement tip tools I have as the the work piece has often been flexing away from the tool resulting in a taper - but intend in future to try with some HSS tools to see if there is any improvement. Also and perhaps the main drawback I have yet found with my little lathe is sometimes a problem getting the tool to the end of the work as the tailstock barrel barely extends over the Cross Slide, unless its me missing something of course...

Cheers

Allan.

A little update to making the Piston and Rod. I thought I would try and see if I could do anything about the slight sticking of the Piston and so removed it once more and with the Rod connected to the Piston and holding by the Rod in the 3 Jaw again I took another two skims off the Piston, only a thou each time - after the second pass the Piston now slides much better, really smoothly with a nice 'soft feel' and with no hint of any sticking. I think it may have been due to having to take apart and removing the O ring to widen the packing groove after the initial 'skimming' - I had simply put them back together, tightened the nut again and fitted to the Cylinder. Anyway maybe someone doing similar and just starting out in the hobby like me may find it useful and something to watch out for etc.

Cheers

Allan.

Day 43 Continued..

The Piston was then drilled 5BA Clearance Size.

A small boring tool was used to do the recess in the Piston to take the locking nut.

After parting off oversize lengthways the piston was reversed in the chuck and faced off to length - photo showing setting up square... The parallels' removed before turning of course.. The Piston still not yet turned to the finished diameter..

The Piston so far.

The Piston and Piston Rod test fitted together but not yet finished.

Holding by the Piston Rod and skimming the Piston to run true with the Rod and to final diameter.

Test fitting the Piston to the Cylinder - no 'O' Ring fitted yet..

The finished Piston with 'O' Ring fitted.

Test fitting the Piston in the engine and checking the movement.. No slop but with the 'O'' Ring fitted it sticks a bit sometimes...

(The guide bars are parallel to each other, just an optical effect in the photo making them looking bowed!..)

Regards

Allan.

Happy Christmas and New Year to you all and thanks again for all the advice..

Day 43. ( This was too long to put in one post so have had to split..)

The Piston and Piston Rod.

Haven't done a brilliant job again with this but have learnt quite a bit I think, which was great.....

The main 'mistake' was not having any material to make a split bush with which to hold the Piston Rod (various sizes of bar 'stock' material now been added to my ever growing shopping list..). I think this was essential really and would have been simple and quick to make.... The result in not having the bush was that the Rod was easily marked in the chuck, despite holding lightly and soon losing the 'ground' finish - all not good for future wearing etc.. The other was not quite getting the 'packing groove' to correct width and having to remove the 'O' Ring and resize, not easy without damaging it...

It all seems to slide and fit ok though, although the rubber 'O' Ring seems to stick slightly sometimes, I guess making steel piston rings would have been too advanced....

The Piston assembly Drawing.

The material supplied for the Piston and Piston Rod. Stainless Steel for the Rod and Cast Iron for the Piston.

Turning the Piston end of the Rod for threading 5BA.

Threading the Piston Rod 5BA.

Half of the Turned length was threaded with the 5BA thread.

One end of the Piston Rod done.

The 'Crosshead' end of the Piston Rod was threaded 2BA in the same way as above.

After facing, the piston was lightly centre drilled and turned to about 1/32 oversize.

A parting tool was used to do the 'Packing Groove'.

continued...

Edited By Allan. on 23/12/2013 18:40:33

That's interesting, and will do - thanks Jason.

Cheers.

Allan.

Cheers Julian and Andrew. Julian would you mind explaining the need for the "small flat" on the Spindle? Many thanks.

and just another small update..

Day 42.

The Valve Crosshead.

The Valve Crosshead and Spindle Drawing, (including the sliding Valve).

Centering ready to drill the 'Stud" hole in the Valve Crosshead. (ignore the existing hole which is just a left over from an earlier failed attempt at the Levers and is to be cut off..)

Center drilling the Valve Crosshead.

Test fitting the Stud in the Valve Crosshead. There are to be two 'Links' either side sitting on the Stud..

Drilling the Spindle end of the Valve Crosshead.

Turning the Diameter on the Valve Crosshead.

Tapping the Valve Crosshead.

Test fitting the Finished Valve Crosshead to the Spindle 1.

Test fitting the Finished Valve Crosshead to the Spindle 2.

Regards

Allan.

Thanks to you too Allan - and just a small update.....

Day 41.

The Valve Spindle.

This again I guess should be a very easy and quick job - but I have been struggling in turning very small diameters due to the work flexing and this was no exception, made worse maybe as this time it was in Stainless Steel. Think maybe I need to try turning these small sizes with a sharp ground steel tool, at least for comparison to the replacement 'indexable' tips I have been using (seems a strange name, I have no idea why they are so called) - these do seem to have a very round profile to the cutting edge and it seems to me (I'm only guessing though) that they would exert more force to make a cut, perhaps causing more flexing? Anyways I could not get the small diameter to turn parallel again 3/32" and ended up with an almost 6 thou taper this time - so a few 'ground steel tools are on my shopping list to get in before the next project.... I don't think this is all down to the Lathe setup as large diameters seem to turn fine...

The Valve Crosshead and Spindle Drawing, (including the sliding Valve).

The materials supplied for the Valve Crosshead and Spindle - the Crosshead being Mild Steel and the Spindle Stainless Steel. The Crosshead material is what was left over from my many attempts at making the Levers previously, there is just enough left I hope....

Initial Facing Off of the Valve Spindle - showing the small diameter to work with...

Included this as I have been caught out before - checking the Die is sitting square in the holder before starting to thread, it is so easy for it not to be and not notice until too late...... My 'budget' kit may be to blame here as well I guess.

Threading the Valve Spindle and here again pulled the chuck around by hand.

The Valve Spindle with 5BA thread and small diameter turned.

The finished Valve Spindle.

The Steam Chest Cover removed and test fitting the Valve Spindle in the Sliding Valve inside the Steam Chest. It all seems to slide nicely..

Regards

Allan.

Edited By Allan. on 16/12/2013 15:30:15

Edited By Allan. on 16/12/2013 15:31:48

Thanks very much Martin, its good to hear someone else has also been following - sounds like we may be on the same learning curve..

Cheers.

Allan.

Day 40.

The Eccentric Sheave.

I found this quite difficult - not having a suitable 'grooving' tool when I did the Eccentric Strap resulted in the internal recess being slightly off centre and made doing the Sheave more awkward. The overall finished size came out at 10 thou over, so hoping I can at least skim a little if it helps with alignment when it comes to assembly..

The Eccentric Sheave Drawing.

The bar supplied for the Eccentric Sheave.

The Eccentric Sheave faced and turned to the overall maximum diameter.

Turning the Eccentric Sheave raised 'lip'.

Test fitting the strap to check for the recess alignment.

Finding the Eccentric Sheave bar centre to mark out for the off centre bore.

Starting the Eccentric Sheave bore 9/64" off centre with a Centre Drill.

Reaming the Eccentric Sheave bore.

The Eccentric Sheave so far.

Turning the other side of the Eccentric Sheave with a parting tool.

Finding the centre to drill for the Eccentric Sheave grubscrew.

Tapping the grubscrew hole in the Eccentric Sheave.

The finished Eccentric Sheave.

The Eccentric Sheave in the strap 1.

The Eccentric Sheave in the strap 2.

Regards

Allan.

Day 39.

The Last of the 4 Glands.

After not doing a very good job with the first three glands I was hoping to do better with this one after now having a bit more practice, and a with slightly different approach...

First time around I did the central hole on the Lathe and the fixing holes on the drill not marking out the fixing holes until after parting off in the Lathe ( mistake I think and didn't manage to get the holes lined up as a result..) - this time around as Jason suggested I marked out the three holes first, and then did all three on the lathe, a much better way I think..

( As I haven't filed the Gland boss profiles on the Cylinder Covers / Valve Chest I flattened off the Elliptical shape on this one slightly as for me it looks better ).

The Gland drawing.

After facing off the bar in the Lathe the holes marked out first.

Drilling all three Gland holes on the Lathe. The fixing holes done first and then the central hole, outside diameter and another light facing cut done on the same and final 'chuck setting' before parting off...

The Cylinder Cover without the Gland.

Test fitting the Gland to the Cylinder Cover.

The Gland after parting off in the Lathe.

Setting the depth stop on the drill before spotting through the 7BA holes from the Gland to the Cylinder Cover.

Tapping the Gland fixing holes in the Cylinder Cover.

Test fitting the Gland with the bolts to the Cylinder Cover.

The Gland fitted to the engine.

Regards

Allan.

Hi Norman

Yes thanks, I have some and always use them when using the Lathe, Mill and Drill - think I would likely use a full face mask though when using a grinder...

and cheers Andrew, can but give it a try! My Lathe tools are all very small so not sure if that will make things more awkward..

Regards

Allan.

Hi Norman

Thanks very much for that, it sounds a perfect solution for me - and I do already have a workmate!

That's exactly what I'll do then!

Cheers.

Allan.

Thanks everyone, thats really useful. I don't have a grinder at the moment but I'm beginning to see that I should maybe get one, I can remember grinding is a very skilled task but It would be good to at least have a go at some of the 'simpler' looking jobs - although I don't have room on the bench for a fixed one so have to see if I can find a portable bench type. I guess one with an integral work piece / tool steel holder would be too much to hope for?

Cheers

Allan.

Day 38.

The Eccentric Strap.

The main problem here was not having a suitable tool to do the recess on the internal diameter. I did look on the internet and expected to find something like a parting tool set at 90 degrees but couldn't see anything. Could someone please tell me what I should have used and possibly where to get one (10mm shank) - I used the boring tool which was definitely not the thing to have done.... thanks.

The Eccentric Strap, Rod and Clevis Drawing.

The Eccentric Strap Gunmetal casting as supplied.

Facing the Eccentric Strap.

Drilling the bolt holes in the Eccentric Strap, starting with the Centre Drill.

The Eccentric Strap cut into two. My saw cut was not too good and so had to mill the joins back flat - resulting in loosing some excess material... I have a small slitting saw which I think I will try for doing this next time around.

Tapping the Eccentric Strap bolt holes.

Had to extend the 7BA bolts thread because of the lost material in the casting in having to mill flat the poor saw cut..

(the left one as supplied).

The two half's of the Eccentric Strap bolted back together.

Initial drilling of the Eccentric Strap bore, started at 3mm and used a drill bit up to 10mm.

then over to boring to the final diameter..

Checking the Eccentric Strap bore size 1.

Doing the internal diameter recess on the Eccentric Strap. Used the boring tool which was a big mistake..

Milling down the fixing arm for Eccentric Rod.

Tidying up the Eccentric Strap on the mill.

Drilling the Eccentric Strap Rod fixing holes.

The finished Eccentric Strap.

Regards

Allan.

Day 37.

Stud.

Just another very small update - all the smaller studs are ready supplied with just this one to make. No problems with this although it would have been good to have had a smaller parting tool to have cleaned the unthreaded 'shoulder' to allow the nuts to travel fully. The thread lengths will likely need to be shortened slightly when it comes to assembly. The central unthreaded section is 11 thou oversize, don't know if that was a bit too much, have to see when it comes to assembly..

My shopping list is growing but hopefully will start the next project slightly better equipped - long way from that yet though..

The Stud Drawing.

Turning the Stud.

Threading the Stud 5BA. Pulled the chuck around by hand to thread.

The finished Stud 1.

The finished Stud 2.

Regards.

Allan.