Member postings for GarryC

Yes we set the trend down here for others to follow Diane..!

Sorry Jason couldn't resist putting up these couple of photos of my Grandad with the real thing...

No probs if you want to delete of course!

Cheers

Garry

Cheers

Garry

Started the Big End Bearing this morning, not much progress yet..

The Big End Bearing Drawing and the Phosphor bronze Bar supplied.

The bar cut to a close approx size to minimise the interrupted cut later - the foot is still slightly oversize here and the little end is not to any size or symmetrical yet....

The mating surfaces of the Bearing are skimmed ready for sweating together. When I first started I had a problem - my formula that I use for cutting speeds said rpm 800 and I used a slow feed - I assumed the phosphor bronze was a brass type material - but the surface finish was terrible and felt like a file to the touch, I've never had anything like that before and thought at first it was because of holes in the material it was that bad - but dropping the speed to 300rpm and all was then immediately very good..

Both surfaces skimmed ready to be sweated together and machined as one.

The two bearing halts being sweated together after the solder paint had been applied to the surfaces - the flame was not held on constantly but moved to and from across - I've no idea really how much to heat and so just waited for the solder to start bubbling out of the joint and then a bit more..Hoping it will be ok

After sweating together and the Solder Paint used.

Then the two halts starting to be machined as one to size ready fro marking out..

Cheers.

Garry

Edited By Gary on 03/06/2015 10:36:14

Edited By Gary on 03/06/2015 10:37:54

Edited By Gary on 03/06/2015 10:38:58

Hi Neil

Its very good to hear you say that, reassuring in fact because it comes from someone who obviously knows - it will serve to lesson my 'cringe' factor quite a bit when I'm having to do it..! There are of course different levels here though - some materials and situations I've found are no problem whatsoever..

I would always try to minimise mechanical impact when I can though, that's all I've been trying to say - if its not possible to do that then ok the job has to be done but if there's an easier route for my machinery I would always take it - as I've always done with all the other types of machinery I've used - and its served me well..

I must have a very sensitive mechanical soul..! Good to have your thoughts though...

Cheers

Garry

Interrupted cuts are of course sometimes / often necessary - I have already learned that decisions can be made to minimise them though - it makes sense to do so when you can Peter. This sounds an obvious example of being able to do that..

Having one bit of metal banging into another not good on any precision machine - why do it when you don't have to!

Garry

Edited By Gary on 02/06/2015 13:58:30

Hi Peter

I know you know I am a beginner like you - so take my comments in that context!

I'm a bit of a mother hen when it comes to my equipment and I like to minimise wear and tear as much as I can. If there is 5mm difference, then I say hacksaw, file and then a light cut in the lathe - probably quicker on a little lathe as well - and its only a tube to cut through..

Banging is not good best to reduce that kind of use to a minimum on your new kit...

Cheers

Garry

Hi Martyn

We were lucky through school to have an ex wales rugby coach for maths teacher, not only did he teach me maths but also how to stay in one piece on the rugby field, great days.. I remember him as one of the best teachers in the school..

If you use an iPhone Martyn you may be interested in the free app that I use **LINK** - although I've found understanding the number theory is one thing - I've not yet been able to put it into practice very well..! .. Soon I think..

Hope it may be of help, I've found it great, very quick and easy to use - you just enter the numbers..

Regards

Garry

I need some decent lathe tools as well as milling cutters, been managing up to now with mainly just 2 basic LH ones a 12mm and 10mm (and been using just the one [upside down sometimes] for most everything except boring so far) - so I've just ordered a set from RDG that will hopefully take things forward a bit more and give some options..

Only sorted the Big End bearing register today and although the real thing looks fine the photo shows again that I really needed a better suited tool at the time (which has finally prompted the above..). I used the mill to get it to depth size today although i'll bet a lot of people would have just filed it..

At least its in the right place! It looks like a step on the register but its just bad tool marking in reality.. The next time it goes on the lathe to size the bearing to the foot it will use a centre on the bottom of the bearing..

Someday soon my photos are going to have nice shiny surfaces to them - I hope!

I can start proper with the bearing now tomorrow..

Cheers

Garry

Hi Jason

I think its ok and the marks are two degrees each by the looks of it - initially when I went out to quickly check I had set the compound dial on 50 and not 45 - that scale is a killer, I'll have to make sure I remember!

I seem to have got up today with only half a brain working - I known what is meant by an included angle (the maths term anyway) but I can't see your meaning to the reference to the dial being calibrated for it? My head just won't get around it!

The photos are with the compound slide set at 45 degrees - it looks ok to my eye..

Hi Roy

This is one of those things that is not sinking in yet, I found setting the tailstock over for the taper (with DTI) very straightforward by comparison. Using the Compound Slide I was starting the taper from the furthest point out and winding in so I thought because that start point was out I got into trouble. Its something I just need to have another go at I think and it will probably go in! I'll certainly do all the tests and checking I can think of next time before starting. I feel it should be the same principle as setting over the tailstock but can't quite see it for some reason -Thanks for the comments they will be a help for next time.

Hi Peter

I see your scale is what I think I would expect to see and how I thought mine was - but no, it should be no problem of course once its known! Thanks very much for the pic.

Cheers

Garry

Jason

Heck now there's a thing I've just checked with my protractor - I'll put some photos up after breakfast, very odd..

I seem to have had everything against me succeeding yesterday!

Cheers

Garry

Thanks Peter, I did rotate the compound slide to do the chamfer on the Gland I've just done - but I just went straight around to the 60 degree mark which was on the dial, the individual marks just didn't register with me at the time..

If this helps remind someone else to double check on their first time then thats great.

Time to have a think about doing the big end bearing now and a break from the SG Iron....

Cheers.

Garry.

Gone to clean down the lathe this morning and discovered I was in double trouble yesterday, i was lucky I didn't end up with a dart rather than a Con Rod..!

Yesterday was the first time i had rotated the compound slide to turn a taper (thats my excuse) - noticed this morning the divisions are at 2 degree intervals not 1 as I assumed, the scale is kind of almost hidden as the photo shows so my cross slide error was compounded by this one as well - what a wally!

Sometimes with so much new stuff to think about I don't seem to see whats right in front of me..

Ah well I won't make that mistake again and it totally explains yesterdays woes now - which is good..

Cheers

Garry

Edited By Gary on 31/05/2015 08:38:41

Edited By Gary on 31/05/2015 08:39:59

Jason, you would not believe how pleased I am to hear you say that! Gordon Banks would have been proud of that save today! Showing my age a bit there..

Cheers

Garry

Managed a bit of mess up this morning - and its been bugging me all day as I couldn't understand why, but its just sunk in now I think - or at least I hope I'm understanding correctly.

Its come down to me missing the fact that my cross slide dial is one that takes off exactly what is says on the dial 0.04mm (ie. you don't need to half it, as I did on my last lathe) - its meant that I was starting the taper too far in (25 marks on the dial instead of as it I should have 50 marks on the dial - idiot! I thought I had simply worked out the wrong angle but no I think the 1 degree on the compound slide was correct and it should have taken me from 10mm diameter down to 8mm over 2.1/4 inches - if I had realised I needed to account for the cross slide dial being as it is..

Sorry to waffle on I bet I'm not explaining that very clearly. Anyway the upshot is that my taper looks not too good, it was too late before I realised the mistake to sort out properly! I hope though that I can still use it, I've gone about 14 thou undersize on the little end (Big End is ok) - hopefully not weekend it too much, and to me the real thing still looks just about ok and again better than the photo, but thats only because I don't know what it should look like I guess. Does anyone think I need to start over with it?

The figures that I used..

The Con Rod so far 1.

The Con Rod so far 2.

Cheers

Garry

Just a quick session today..

It was definitely much easier and quicker to use a normal tool for most of the bar and then to switch back to the round nose to sort out the rest and then with just a light cut to the entire length. I didn't have a 'straight' tool so couldn't get very close in to the shoulders.

Only had chance to do the one corner but at least the radius is beginning to show. Still finding it difficult to stop the tool digging in and so went at it very slowly and lightly. Once the other corner is done I can try the taper. My compound slide is a bit stiff to use so no idea how that will turn out yet! it felt like it was good practice today though as most of it was done manually (i.e. not auto feed).

Cheers.

Garry.

Edited By Gary on 29/05/2015 18:38:45

Hi Andrew

Thanks for the warning (and info), I have a few cobalt drills but i've been tending to use my cheaper ones in between those sizes [in Cobalt] when working up through to enlarge holes - I need to fill in the gaps and get some more - need to use my slot drills at the first sign of any problems by the sound of it then and be very wary of the cheap ones, thanks again Andrew... Hope I can make a better job this time of soldering the half bearings together for machining as one - I'll be glad to move on from this SG Iron thats for sure..

Hi Clive

Its been a bit of a busy one today, not much chance to be at the bench either but time to sit down and have a good look over the weekend, they do sound like a bargain. I quite like the idea as far as cutters and drills go to find a particular make and supplier and stick with them - might help to develop more of a feel for using I thought. This engine has been quite a big step up from my last one with much bigger parts and seemingly harder / difficult materials, I seem to need upgrades all over the place!

Just having a cuppa and finishing my very short (later than usual) session in the workshop and I'll put a few more photos up shortly.. Difficult time again but great learning practice - and all good fun though..!

Cheers

Garry

Thanks for that Clive, I'll have a look..

Cheers

Garry

Ah very good to hear that Jason, thanks. I was in two minds this morning as to whether it was done like that but didn't try in case it was wrong and ended up making things worse - makes such a difference to hear from someone who knows! Thats what I'll do tomorrow..

Ta very much.

Garry

Just a quick photo of progress this morning.

I haven't got much further, been very enjoyable (and challenging) today and to be honest I've been struggling! Biggest problem is using the round nose tool in order to get the radius's on the shoulders and to turn between them - I'm using a piece of tool steel I rounded myself and its not very good! I have got an indexable button tool that I put away somewhere after having trouble with it digging in last time I used it - can't find it now of course. I'm getting the same problem with the one I'm using as well, this one is much smaller so I thought it would be less of a problem..

I have done the Bearing register and foot and almost have the rod diameter parallel - and my compound slide does at least have enough travel so that I can use it to do the taper..

At the moment though I'm having real trouble though just getting the tool into the material to put even a tiny cut on to finish getting it parallel before starting the taper..

I hadn't released the material to come off for sizing the foot would need to be off the top otherwise I wouldn't yesterday have put in the small flat on the diameter, thinking I needed to for the fillet - should have left it alone it would have sorted itself out in sizing the foot.. So my fillet is going to be a big one I think!

Cheers.

Garry

Edited By Gary on 28/05/2015 14:37:36

Thanks Bob that's interesting to hear and something I'll remember as changing over to better cutters. The sheer number of different types is a bit of a minefield when starting I'm finding. Buying the cheap sets of drills and milling cutters that I initially did was a mistake, no way I could have known at the time had to start somewhere - I would have been better off just buying a small number of good quality ones even just one or two.. I've been way too slow releasing it and.been guilty of putting lots down to not expecting much from the small machinery - truth is its a case of bad operator great machinery!

(I've just re-done the faceplate driver and about to make todays start...)

Cheers

Garry