Member postings for Russ B

Just a question regarding copyright.

I've picked up a set of castings for the Jacobs Hobber (CES version + drawings).

If I create my own drawings to metric standards - is that copyright infringement, CES own the copyright of their drawings, but I guess the Jacobs machine isn't copyrighted or patented in itself.

- just to add to the above, I'd want to share my work freely/however I like if that's possible.

Edited By Russ B on 05/12/2018 13:53:57

Thanks for these suggestions, they're going on my list of things to do!

Brian G's video hits the nail on the head, I want to make a small differential, for an RC truck although not that small!! I'm looking around 1/10th scale - however....... I'd love to make a torson differential on day. I'm sure by the time I actually get to the stage where I've enough knowledge and the skills equipment required to give it a shot, I'll have other interests, but for now, this is good.

I'm holding off on buying anything, this is purely academic for now, I have an 19 week old baby so I'm out of the workshop and into books now, although I do still get 2 or more hours to myself most nights during the week as both mum and baby go to bed early!!

I do not know how small a gear/worm I could make on something as big as that Koepfer (althoguh it looks very compact) I would guess, I might want to make my own miniature hobber, I've a slight inclination towards horology too, some of the things I've seen online are incredible pieces of engineering, and then when you realize the scale, it's just mind blowing!

again, thanks for these suggestions, things are becoming clearer, it's a very in depth niche though!

Can anyone recommend any literature on gear hobbing. Its something that's always fascinated me, I'd love to get a little hobbing machine and have a go but I'm afraid it would just be overly complicated to setup and wrap my head around.

I'd love to be able to cut the gears to make a small differential gear one day.

Regards,

Russ

For Charlie, and anyone else missing their spindle speed sticker - it isn't actually in the manual, perhaps it depends on your motor?

I haven't verified that my motor is original, or that these are the actual speeds, my RDM is still in a shipping crate on my to do list at work.

Here's a link incase the below ever stops working - as they eventually tend to.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/unui0l9uomeo5u6/Photo%2007-03-2018%2C%2016%2002%2008.jpg?dl=0

Edited By Russ B on 07/03/2018 16:16:15

I'd much rather shop locally, and don't mind paying a little bit more to do so, but when they can only offer sub par goods that's a problem, and when they then want to charge the same or more as online shops charge for good or average quality goods, that's a moral line crossed and my opinion becomes that they can now go and fornicate with themselves.......

I think there is a demand for a place like Maplin's on the high street and hopefully if they vanish, it will leave an opening for someone who's not stupid enough to light both ends of a candle.

Good riddance to bad rubbish.

I'll have to give these a go!

I've always been a fan of good old plastic erasers, I use a Staedtler brand "Mars Plastic" - marks and grot on painted walls, computer cases etc etc vanish (so does the paint on soft matt emulsion if you keep going at it so its just a gentle job, dont go ballistic)

I clean the eraser by putting it in inside a sock in the washing machine with my smalls, comes out like new! (I'm sure many of the pencil draftsman will know that trick)

Edited By Russ B on 16/02/2018 14:41:42

Bill, I think you'll find these are two very different types of shredder.

The one from homebase uses a sort of gear wheel rotating slowly at 45rpm to hog lumps out of branches, you set the choke width using a hand wheel on the ouside, it's kind of like a thickness planer. They chuck about 5 or 10 lumps out a second.

The Titan one you linked is a rotating flywheel spinning at ultra high RPM, they're kind of like a lawnmower upside down, personally, I don't like these, it seems like you have to force everything in to them, more of a mulching effect than a chipping effect, I find the blades dull easily especially with harder wood.

Ady1 how are you finding it, I'm very tempted since I have the flywheel type, and these slow gear type things make it looks so much easier!

IanSC, I was disappointed with the R8 spindle, I thought it was MT3 which would have made for nice cross compatibility with existing machinery/lathe etc but never mind, it's still a superb machine for our little odd jobs and modifications. I think they were sold with MT3 or R8.

We have a Pinnacle drill press at work, and that's made by Naerok, I think I've seen a Rexon and that looked the same too, I'm guessing they're all made by Naerok (now out of business I think, no doubt lost the price war against Rong-Fu)

John, I've sent you a private message regarding the mods. What model Grizzly has this type of column raise/lowering arrangement.

I recently purchased this on behalf of my employer and as we keep our manuals digitally, I thought I'd share a copy here as there are none online. Hopefully once enough people have it it will be easier to find once the inevitable digital decay renders the below link dead! I will keep a copy obviously so if you cant get it below, get in touch.

**LINK**

The Naerok mill/drill is quite significantly different from today's Mill/Drills.

The most notable difference is the mill head does not slide up and down the column, instead it is fixed and the column slides through the base.

Having purchased and serviced/refurbished 5 or 6 of these round column mill/drill machines of all sizes, I can tell you this one is of a good solid quality similar to the original Rong-Fu machines of the 80's, the leadscrews have roller bearings and overall are of nice solid quality, the castings are much finer than found today. Another example is the belt tension system which is the same, but rather than just pushing the motor with one hand, (which makes it a fumble to then hold it and tighten the motor mount) a lever on the side operates a piston that pushes the motor mount out and tabbed screws make it a simple operation. This is just one example of little luxuries that you don't see anymore, no doubt due to over competitive pricing.

Rong-Fu are still going strong and make their version of the mill/drill machines and a whole load of others but I'm not sure if they're the same quality or perhaps if other copies are on the market too.

Perko7 beat me to it.

I would try a small 4 stroke engine of around 100-200cc with a large flywheel and self regulating throttle so it can increase torque without increasing engine speed too much.

**LINK**

I must admit, I’m looking for a QCTP for my second lathe, it’s a nice to have item.

Because I have two different size lathes, I like to swap tooling between them, and then the rapid height adjustment is great.

If you’ve only got the one lathe, 2 or 3 well laid out 4-way tool posts is probably quicker than a QCTP!

I can't remove the "wrong" drawing in the original post, despite removing it from my album.

Here is the correct image.... I hope....

dwg fixed at that link - I'll change the one in my album now

That was a hell of a headache, not as simple as I first thought. The way I'd constrained the sheet metal in the 3D software led to a wonky box who's edges didn't align!!

Small, but very very important changes to almost every dimension on the drawing pulls everything in to perfect alignment.

Edited By Russ B on 05/01/2018 15:27:51

The angles on the sheet metal are wrong, I'm just trying to get my head around it....

If you look at the Top notation, it doesn't feature a folded edge, so the standard 17cm card targets are slid in from the top.

I have silenced a larger catcher which has 5 knock down targets inside by hanging a piece of rubber about an inch from the back of the catcher - you just get a muffled dud when the pellet hits.

I've never really been a target shooter or hunter, I just know I enjoy shooting. Lately I've found I get bored of shooting paper targets wrapped around fence posts etc pretty quickly and there's no continuity between sessions which could be weeks or months apart.

I plan to set out a small range out of the back of one the old stables at my Dads. Even if it's raining we can still sit/stand/kneel and have a pop and a cuppa in the dry.

I'll have something like 10, 20 and 30 yard targets for my scoped gas ram, and also 10, 15 and 20 yard targets for my dads iron sighted springer BSA Airsporter mk1. Each will be fitted with 17cm "Bisley 5 target" cards. We'll take one shot at each of the 5 target at each distance on one range, inbetween we'll score, and put 8mm white stickers over the holes, and then swap to scope/iron and go again. We can then date and keep the card and perhaps scribble a few notes on the back, wind/weather conditions etc.

The idea is to just make things a bit more fun and provide measurable results/continuity between sessions. I hope to extend the ranges to 50 yards scoped and 30 yards iron sights. I want plenty of target boxes so once each target on the scope and iron sight range has a fresh card, no one has to walk up and down between shots blocking the lane.

I hope that makes sense =)

Edited By Russ B on 05/01/2018 13:40:28

Here is a link to the drawing, it looks to have lost quality above. Note, you don't need to sign up for a Dropbox account to get the file, but the might try steering you in to it as it is free.

If you print this carefully at A3, it might just come out 1:1 as this is how I drew it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t46vbb9iz5tjimo/DGA.jpg?dl=0

Edited By Russ B on 05/01/2018 12:02:06

The plan is to mark out the steel and then cut out the full trapezoid, then the clip the corners off as show and then get busy with the box/pan folding, finishing off the +90° angles by hand unless I can machine a new "thing" for my 3-in-1 machine that will help me do it, since I'll have a lot of them to do. The tac weld them together and tack the assembly to a vertical piece of 50 or 60mm box or U channel or something I can easily attach to 2" wooden pegs.

I want 6 to 10 17cm pellet traps and at £10-15 each, it soon adds up!

I've got a load of cold roll 0.7mm steel pre cut to 12" wide and a 3-in-1 12" sheet metal machine, so I've decided to just make my own. Here are the drawings if anyone's interested.

This drawing is for the top, bottom and sides. These can be spot/tack welded or riveted together and are designed to be attached to a vertical piece of steel or wood if you like. I'll be using whatever I have to hand, likely a bit of angle iron. Note the angles are beyond 90° so I guess I'll be finishing off the fold by hammering over a piece of metal or something (I'm not a sheet metal worker, I'll just keep hitting it till it makes sense)

Edited By Russ B on 05/01/2018 11:46:07

The Honda EU10i, EU20i and EU30i were always astounding quiet in the pits and paddock area - but your not going to pick one of those up anytime soon for a few hundred quid! (1kw, 2kw and 3kw respectively)

You could walk past an EU30i onload with a set of tyre warmers on and not even realise it was on. They’ve got enough power to run the warmers and the microwave at the same time, but not warmers and the kettle.

The inverter regulates the engine rpm, so when output is low, the engine rpm drops, unlike a traditional vacuum controlled genny. The inverter corrects the frequncy and the fancier the inverter, the higher/lower range the generator can operate at. An expensive Honda might be 5% more efficient, that’s 5% less load on the engine.

Neil,

This is on my "to try" list for lost casting. I like that it has such a low print temperature (70°C) - I hope to be able to easily smooth the surface with flame.

https://www.imakr.com/en/home/611-emate-low-temperature-filament.html

Edited By Russ B on 21/12/2017 14:07:57