Member postings for OuBallie

Thanks Ian.

Your description of measuring the slack makes more since than some scientific equation that could, no doubt, be produced, and cause all sorts of confusion and miscalculation. I like it!

You have confirmed my initial thoughts about the belt being far too tight. It was so right that you could probably play a tune on it.

Will see how best to get that amount of play, as there isn't enough meat in the motor feet to form a long slot.

Oh well, back to the drilling machine.

A VFD motor on a drilling machine is something that I would not hesitate recommending, as is was so easy getting the speed perfect for drilling into the cast iron of the countershaft.

Geoff - Coffee time, then back to the workshop.

Well, after the usual side track for sorting domestic issues, I'm now ready to join battle in putting the motor and countershaft assembly back.

Before I tackle the job, however, I need advise please on belt tension.

The belt in question is an A29, with pulley dimensions of 210mm and 63mm ø

I measured the centre distance between the pulleys with old motor installed, and that was 169mm.

Now, the original motor had a 5/8" shaft whereas the new motor is 14mm, which meant a new pulley from a well known ME supplier - with the usual prompt delivery. Too lazy to make a sleeve.

I drilled & tapped new holes in the countershaft motor base for the new motor, but only drilled and did not slot the feet for adjustment. Will do that today.

Putting the new V-belt on with either old or new motor, has the belt very tight with no play at all.

It just feels too tight for my liking, but would appreciate expert advise please.

Oh, the motor starts to zing from about 675rpm up to maximum. Should I be worried?

I have taken the rotor out to check bearings, but they appear OK and feel smooth running.

Geoff - Sunshine didn't last.

Guys,

I remember reading somewhere that emery cloth/tape is 'oily', so not recommended for pre-cleaning a solder joint.

Is this correct or nonsense?

Geoff - Blue sky! What's gone wrong!?

Neil,

As you, I've been looking at some of my British Steam Railways DVDs and am quite amazed at the steam being lost via the areas you mentioned.

If I remember correctly, one of the GWR locos had such a bark I was sure it would launch the chimney into orbit - music to the ears, as is a racing BMW 6 or that spine tingling sound from the Mazda quad rotor.

Heard that Mazda for the first time at Silverstone in the late '80s - Wow!

Geoff - Blocked gutter & water tank valve leaking (the rest is censored!)

Stewart,

You won't regret buying it once you've finished the re-habilitation exercise.

Don't make things too tight though, as I remember locos clanking away round the track, but still pulling decent loads, with nary a steaming problem.

My first loco was a Simplex, and remember one Sunday having a full load of two carriages, then coming up behind a Springbox that had lost its fire.

Decided to act as a Banker, even though it also with a full load of passengers.

Must say the bark from the Simplex chimly was glorious when I started the push. About 20 odd people in total was quite a load. The look of surprise from the driver and last passenger was something to behold.

He he I lost my fire when we reached the station though!

Will always remember that Bark though.

Geoff - Video Light Box finished

Thanks Neil.

It's going to be somewhat easier to get the countershaft with lighter motor bolted into position.

Says he.

If the air turns blue in the process, then all will know that wasn't the case

Time to dismantle the countershaft to drill & tap new holes, as its too awkward with the pulleys in place.

At first look it appeared so, but better do a proper assessment first,

Will post more photos as I progress.

Geoff - That big bright thing's in the sky again!

Need more help please.

Photos added.

Whilst clearing up around the shaper to make fitting new motor 'easier', I discovered a TEC motor I forgot I had.

The difference, however, between this one and the BMF motor is striking, but both are 3-phase 1/2 HP.

I'm surprised at such a difference in size & of course weight, so comments on its suitability please, when connected to the VFD..

The weight of the bare countershaft is 6kg, so using the TEC motor will make the c'shaft with motor 5kg lighter compared to using the BMF motor which incidentally fits existing bolt holes.

Now 5kg isn't back breaking, but it WILL make a big difference in getting the thing back in place.

Have experimented with a scissor jack, but without motor attached, and it should help.

As can be seen in the photos, I will need to drill & tap new mounting holes in the c'shaft motor base for the TEC motor, buo great shakes.

Should be finished & running this week, with luck of course.

regards,

Geoff - Video Light Box finished

I agree with your thoughts Bazyle.

Do hope he braces that hole with a centre strut, before he adds those heavy lumps of cast iron!

If it starts to sag then he will be in the doo-doo me thinks.

A smaller opening with roller shelves as per my lathe, however, would be ideal for storing all the cutters, vices, spacers and so on, but only as you point out, if space is at a premium.

Just a little re-organising/tidying up can release a surprising amount of useable space, as I have found out on numerous occasions, and are still doing so

Geoff - Video Light Box finished today (hopefully)

Just been told about this page:

David,

%^*+# you have confirmed something that was nagging at the back of my mind about having to keep the countershaft. Oh well, I will need to psych myself up before diving in, but may have to resort to crowbar to move the machine to gain more access.

Kwil,

The motors are the same HP. If they where different, I realise that I would have to be carefull in not stalling/overloading the smaller one.

Will see how I get on switching before buying a separate VFD, unless a good one at reasonable price slaps me in the mush of course..

Must say that the VFDs on lathe and drilling machine have transformed both machines.

No doubt when I fit a DRO to the mill &/or lathe, I will wonder how I managed beforehand.

Thanks for the responses chaps.

Progress reports as and when will follow.

Geoff - That bright round thing is back in the sky!

Thanks for reply Clive. Food for thought.

Bazyle,

The pin mods are on my To-Do list plus I will add the others as well.

Didn't cross my mind about a QC style stop. Nothing has come up in my searches.

The basic designs appear to be pretty robust, so the QC feature shouldn't be to difficult to incorporate, but it all depends on how complicated one wants it to be.

I need to do a design incorporating what I've seen anyway, so may as well see if I can add this feature, even if not needed straight away.

I do see a turret type for the cross-slide being a usefull addition as well.

Neil,

Don't see why the stop/s cannot be interchangeable between machines, but may need some thought on mounting. Could use them on my mills.

This is going to be an interesting exercise.

Don't hold your collective breaths though, as getting the shaper running is a priority.

Geoff - Bolognese time.

Me again, needing more help/advise please.

This is my no.1 project. (the others will have to be patient)

The shaper came with a 380v 3-phase motor.

Don't have 3-phase, so will fit a new motor and run it off of the drilling machine VFD, but not at the same time of course.

Now, do I retain the existing pulley system with the countershaft, or not?

Getting the original motor out was a real real pain in the watsit, so not looking forward to the reverse procedure, as access is really tight.

It would be easier to design and make a new motor mount, rather than the grief of using the existing one. Maybe I had an off day when I removed the motor, but the experience has burned into the noggin.

Wouldn't the ease of speed control negate having to use the countershaft?

Any learned help appreciated.

Geoff - Back from dentist & mush numb.

Greetings all,

I need to make a bunch of die holders as per the Geo.H. Thomas tailstock design, but trying to decide if I should make a turret type carriage stop.

Stupid me I sold the first set I made in the '70s and regret it as usual.

My first set was made on my V10P that had a simple carriage stop as well as a clutch on the carriage feed shaft, both making the machining pretty easy.

Should mention that the clutch was only used as an emergency 'stop going into the chuck' facility.

I have found some nifty turret designs, both bed & carriage mounted, but can't decide which would be best/most convenient though. No doubt they could be made interchangable quite easily.

Also thinking of a cross-slide stop as well for this exercise.

No DRO fitted yet, but may go for a Newall system.

Advise please.

Cheers,

Geoff - Snow flurries in South Norfolk.

Yes I have Paul, thanks.

Photocopied the whole series from my magazines.

That's where I found out about the extra T-slot.

Was going to do the clutch, but fitted the VFD instead, with absolutely no regret.

Don't know yet what other mods I will do, but one thing I must sort out is the oil weeping from the headstock oil sight glasses.

They loose all the oil over a 10 day period, but the previous owner did warn me about that, but haven't removed them yet to check why.

I will see how I get on with the lathe before making any further changes.

Geoff - Trying to decide what to do next

.

Thanks Gray.

The ML7 title meant I didn't bother looking there, but have now done so.

Geoff - Snow flurries

Clive,

Thanks for reminding me about the card trick, something I had completely forgotten about.

My first use of a Dickson was with my V10P and was converted, hence fitting one on the BH600.

Bazyl,

i will be holding on to the 4-way for the time being, but will let you know if I change my mind.

Geoff - Light snow, well it is still March

Good pointer Bazyle, thanks!

Will attach a red note to the spring assembly with a red streamer ala aircraft practice.

Decided to make a new T nut and not use the sleeve, so that the stud can be thicker as you mentioned.

The QC is hardened, so won't be putting slots in it.

Not too worried about aligning, as I intend milling a new T-slot in the rear of the cross-slide and fitting another QC there, for parting & chamfering etc

Geoff - There's that big bright thing in the sky again!

Clive & Bazyle

More photos added with descriptions.

Hope they make sense, but shout if not.

Will have another think about the nut.

Good points raised

Cheers guys.

Geoff - Relaxing today

Edited By OuBallie on 28/03/2013 16:14:26

Graeme,

I've put more photos up in another folder - Garage Door Conversion

Sorry everyone, it should be Dickson not Dixon - Duh

Three score plus nine and a half years is my excuse, today at least.

After after further thought havee decided to make a new T-nut and stud

Geoff - 13months of winter so far, Radio 4 yesterday!