Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Like many here, I have been having a mega tidy up during lockdown. I found a 4 ton Lake and Elliott bottle jack, last seen some 35 years ago!

I cleaned it up and freed the stuck threaded top section. I checked the oil level (it had been leaking as it was on its side). Topped up with hydraulic fluid and gave it a pump or three. It eventually got to full height and then the awful truth dawned. How do you let it down? I must have known once!

There was no sign of a release valve and the only visible features were the oil filling point and the device to put the pumping handle into (this just drives a horizontal shaft to pump up the jack). Now there is a spring loaded lifting device on this, which needs to be lifted to get the handle out. But this is ALL it does. There is also a floppy lifting handle, but this doesn't do anything else. It is a very heavy brute and the handle is needed.

So, I have an erect jack (no comments please) and no apparent way of collapsing the ram. I have a very red face indeed but I am confessing my sins in the hope that someone can tell me how to retract the ram.

Andrew.

Hello Jerry,

Leveling a round bed Drummond isn't the same as say an ML7. I simply tighten down the two bolts at the headstock end. If either of the two tailstock fixing points are "grounded", then I will put a bolt in that point and tighten it down.

There will probably be howls of anguish from other (non round bed) members. But it has always worked for me, even if there are no fixing bolts at all at the tailstock end!. To be fair I will usually shim one of the tailstock fixing points in the unlikely event that neither touch!!

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 07/06/2020 19:23:21

Looks like a Mobius strip to me.

Andrew.

Thanks you both for that information, it looks as though the doomsayers re older motors may be too pessimistic. The motors are able to be connected in Delta, otherwise, I would not have asked!

Andrew.

Hello Cliff,

You need to tell us a lot more information about the old system . Make, model number etc and about the new display unit (presumably a generic two or three axis Chinese system?

Andrew.

I have some unused Brook Crompton 3 phase motors still in their original boxes. They are probably 40 years old.

For inverter use, I seem to remember that these old style motors are not the best choice. Lower maximum operating temperature and prone to heating with the HF in the inverter supply. Modern motors are better equipped to cope so I am told.

Now I need a motor to power some kit and once installed, it will be very difficult to access. Do I buy a cheap TEC motor or use one of the Brook Crompton motors?

Which is more reliable on inverter power? Indeed are the cheaper TEC motors a good choice? They are Chinese made but with an English sales company

Thanks,

Andrew.

Plus 1 for Purdy.

Andrew.

If you want a cheaper SEBO, go to "Manchester Vacs" They are cheaper than John Lewis and carry all the spares. They also dispense good advice and there is a Vacuum cleaner forum too!

They are also Dyson agents but got fed up of the modern Dyson tat and took on a SEBO agency as well.

Andrew.

Could you use pyrophillite, which is easy to machine. Once made, the item if fired at high temperature and becomes a hard ceramic?

I can't remember the firing temperature, but google pyrophillite and you should get all the necessary data. I have used this material in the past and it is excellent. I suspect that sand blast nozzles are made from this material. The ones I have used have a pink colour typical of pyrophillite.

Andrew.

I have done a little research and a couple of people have used Valspar Satin, which as an exact match for thr colour.

It seems that this can be had in 400 ml rattle cans. So the search is on to find some.

Thanks for every ones help and suggestions.

Andrew.

The DC14 isn't a bad vacuum cleaner compared to the modern junk that Dyson sell. It is instructive to look in the vacuum cleaner skip at your local recycling center. Just count up the large amount of Dyson's in there!

If you want a decent, long lived vacuum cleaner, that has spares back up, for even the first model, then get a SEBO. They are robust, well engineered products that will last and last.

Andrew.

Hello Kwil,

One of my old man's yankees had a black handle, just as you described. Being black, meant it was easy to restore to original condition.

I am not sure that I know why I am doing this. I suppose that I spent a lot of my younger years in the shed with my father. It is the memory of the tools when they were were well cared for. They were in a sorry state, before renovating them. I just get a good feeling when using them.

Now for the final push and get the burgundy handle sorted!

Andrew.

Stan Bray in his book on milling for model engineers, recommends the use of gloves and there is a photo in his book showing them in use. The tops are elasticated so can't flap about in the breeze.

Andrew.

Thanks for that Barrie. I shall check Rustins stains to see if there is one red enough to do the job.

Andrew.

Plus 1 for that!

Andrew.

Hello Barrie a photo of the tool chest would be good. I would like to see the finish before going ahead. I have had to strip down the last painting job twice because of problems and I don't want to start doing it again. Once is bad enough, but twice is purgatory!

Thanks,

Andrew.

Hello Martin,

I did think of mixing woodstains to give the correct colour. but my normal make of stain doesn't do a stain that is red enough. Maybe take a look at other makes.

Thanks,

Andrew.

Thanks Jason,

I think you are correct in it being a lacquer, it doesn't look right for either paint or varnish. I will try a woodworking forum and see what transpires.

Yes you are right Grindstone, I intend to use the yankee screwdrivers, they are not just for show!

Andrew.

I am restoring some of my fathers old tools. The wooden handles of such things as yankee screwdrivers, Brace and bit drills and some of his planes are finished with a burgundy coloured paint, or more probably varnish.

Having done the mechanical sorting, I would like to reproduce the burgundy finish, but I have drawn a complete blank to date on a source of the paint / varnish.

Can anyone suggest a supplier?

Thanks,

Andrew.

Phil and Nick,

Maybe you are correct about the soldering being simply for supports for the cladding. I read it as being a soft soldered boiler.

I am very surprised that a soft soldered boiler is allowable these days. The one I saw self destruct, was soft soldered and riveted. After that incident, I would never want to be near such a device in steam, boiler ticket or not!

Andrew.