Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Up to now I have used square section HSS tools on my shaper. Looking at a few books, I see that a tool holder was often used. This seems to consist of a square or oblong holder in the clapperbox. At the bottom of this holder is a second holder which is pivoted on the bottom of the first holder. This second holder has provision for a piece of HSS to do the cutting

These tools seem to be a very rare bird these days, I would like to make one, but the illustrations are not particularly clear. It seems that a bolt (?) is used as a pivot, but I can't see if the joint is one piece on another, or whether there is some sort of dovetail (castellated?) joint involved.

Some pictures show a nut and bolt fixing and others show what appears to be a (threaded?) disc as the means of tightening, The disc looks neat but how one can tighten it sufficient for shaper work is a bit of a mystery

Such a tool would be excellent for cutting dovetails and the like, so has anyone any experience of them and their construction. Details of shaper work are few and far between on the net and I already have copies of most of the more important contributions.

Can anyone advise?

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 01/03/2022 13:26:15

I am a firm believer in good quality carbon steel taps. (note the "good quality"!) I find that carbon taps are sharper than HSS. Sure they blunt quicker than HSS, but for the average model engineer that doesn't matter. A different case for industrial full time use.

Tempting fate, I have never snapped a carbon steel tap, although I have plenty of broken HSS taps. At least the latter can be ground and used as cutting tools. Good carbon steel taps are around half the price of HSS equivalents.

I am told that it is easier to remove a broken carbon steel tap, but never having broken one, this may not be true.

Andrew.

Sorry, the Rocal was £16.99, then the 5% discount, but still cheap!

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 01/03/2022 10:44:41

Right now Zoro have the 12" Starrett high speed blades at 0.95. each in 18, 24 and 32 tpi Using the discount code FHQA05, you get an extra 5% off.

Postage is free above £20, I added a 500 gm tub of Rocal RTD for a few pence over £15. Most other sellers charge £19 to £25 for this.

If you want hacksaw blades or Rocol RTD, then buy now, as the special offer won't last too long!

Andrew

Hopper,

Re your observation that the Eclipse tubular hacksaw of old, holds the blade at about 5 degrees from the vertical. Mine is exactly as you describe it. I was also given a brand new Eclipse hacksaw (same type) and this also holds the blade at approx 5 degrees re the frame.

From this I infer that the 5 degree offset is deliberate, for the reasons that you give.

Andrew.

There is no doubt in my mind that many old tools are better than their modern counterparts. I have a liking and the know how, to keep wood working planes in good order. There is a marked difference between good modern planes and the older variety and that isn't in favour of the modern stuff!

It isn't user bias, even the uninitiated can tell the difference when using them.

Andrew.

Thanks everyone,

I have just ordered the precision W/O Pryor number stamps.

Regards,

Andrew.

Thanks Nick.

It looks as though the Arc set are better than the ones I have. I use a tool based on a Tapping jig and can hold the square section of the punch very accurately. However this is no good if the punches are not accurate!

I will take a look at JHS modelmark's offering too. Thanks for that ega.

Engraving sounds even worse than punching and I certainly won't pay for a professional to do it. We are supposed to be model engineers after all.

Thanks everyone,

Andrew.

Thanks Thor,

The sets I have, are from well known sources and I am surprised how poor they are. Have you actually tried Arc's offering and were they accurate? I don't want to buy yet another set that are dodgy! So can anyone recommend a set from experience, that give good results?

Regards,

Andrew.

I need to stamp the numbers on some dials that I have engraved. The sets of number stamps that I have (No name on them) are very poor at getting each number in the same place! Even the individual numbers are not upright and vary in degree of list!

So can anyone recommend a set of number stamps that always put the number in a standard place? I would be looking for 2 or 3 mm size height.for thr numbers.

Thanks,

Andrew.

Hello Diognes,

There seem to be a few new Sandvik bow saw blades on Ebay. So maybe all is not lost.

Andrew.

I say again, that you will NOT be able to run a single phase motor from a VFD.

All that a VFD will give you is the motor speed. Your spindle does not run at motor speed and the VFD doesn't have a clue as to the gearing ratio between spindle and motor!

If you are convinced that a VFD will run a single phase motor and give a reading of spindle speed, then I suggest you demonstrate this. I for one will be most interested in the results.

Andrew.

As your mill will be geared, the VFD cannot measure the spindle speed. All it will do is to tell you what speed the motor is running at. You will need to work out the spindle speed from that. Much better to get an electronic tachometer fitted to the spindle for speed readings.

Andrew.

You cannot get a VFD that outputs single phase as a general rule. So you will need to change your single phase motor for a 3 phase one.

As to which one to get, there simply isn't a realistic answer. They range from cheap and cheerful Chinese ones to very expensive industrial ones with all the bells and whistles. At least the latter have a comprehensive instruction manual.

To reverse the question, how much do you want to spend and what power 3 phase motor are you going to get? Answer that and people will give you a less wide range of answers!!

I tend to buy well known units second hand or even new.

Andrew.

As far as I know, JB Tools are taking a few months break. They said that they will be back later in the year. I hope so as Jenny Blackwell was an excellent supplier.

Andrew

I have been using an Arc eurotrade Parting off blade with a GTN2 tip This is mounted in a QCP holder. So far it has done all I have asked of it on my Myford. I also have an HSS parting off tool, which I can use in a front and rear parting off block.

Now I would assume that a GTN2 tip in a QCP would be a good candidate for chatter and digging in. The QCP holder on my Myford is certainly not as rigid as a tool in a 4 way holder or indeed one clamped in the time honoured Myford way. So far both the traditional parting off blade and the insert blade have worked faultlessly.

Maybe it is something to do with locking everything that can move or maybe I have just been lucky?

Andrew.

Re the motor failure on 3 port zone valves. I have never had a failure of a motor in nigh on 50 years. BUT I have had frequent failure of the microswitch limit switches. So if you have a dud 3 port valve and the motor still works, then check the microswitches!

I have two motor heads in stock with new microswitches fitted so that I am ready to change the motor head when the next microswitch fails.

Andrew.

I enjoyed his posts. I will miss him.

Andrew.

Hoovers made lots of induction motors, many more than their universal motors. Might pay to ascertain which type of Hoover motor you have.

Andrew.

Plus one for the above. I sometimes think that I live in the USA and not the UK. Plus "cut" is shorter than "outage" so keep it simple.

Andrew.