Member postings for Peter Love 1

Thank you Mark I have bought various from Tacey tools in the past.

Peter.

Update.

I have just phoned Tracey Tools and they have no knowledge of the the reduction box and d'not stock it.

Peter.

Edited By Peter Love 1 on 17/02/2022 10:05:51

Hi all , a while ago Graham Meek produce a reduction gearbox for the carriage hand wheel on a Myford super 7, I am not keen on making one and they were available made ready to go from someone producing the (pos' in Holland ?), I would very much like to lay my hands on one, can anyone help ?.

Peter

I was watching Abom 79 on Utube and saw this, one way of machining small items on a very large lathe.

Peter.

Thanks Jason, I think I will wait until all the sections have been published in subsequent ME editions and make a decision, that way any other mistakes will have been spotted and pointed out, I do have quite a lot of material I can use already.

Peter.

Hi all, I am not a steam person myself I come from the land of Internal Combustion, however, after seeing the start of a series from Rodney Oldfield building the Middleton Double Beam Engine ME4628 I thought I would give it a go, I have started to gather the materials, however, one part that surprised me was aluminium for the cylinders, really !!!! in an IC engine that would be pluming smoke before you could get back from your next shopping trip, perhaps I am being ignorant here and missing something and as the article says "do your own thing".

Your comments would be welcomed whilst I consider cast iron or stainless steel.

Peter Amateur Radio op' G0KOK, Garage Proprietor Volkswagen Tech' retired.

Hi I have just sent back to a supplier on Ebay a set of 4 1/2" jaws for my No 4 Record, they were 4 1/2" long but not 1 inch wide Record/Irwin, so I need the original type before Irwin came on the scene anyone know were I can obtain a pair ?.

Peter.

Hi all I have just purchased an Axminster ZX30M mill to replace my old 1982 Alpine although it is a lot beefier and bigger, I am hoping to find a right angled head to fit this machine can anyone point to one ? or plans to make one, really looking forward to its arrival in two days time I got a real deal of just over £1000.000 my local Axminster store decided to have a clear out of slow moving equipment, I believe it is a Sieg variant.

Peter G0KOK

Hi all I have a Jones iambic Morse paddle in my collection, it was manufactured in the USA until 1998, the screw threads are 3/16" NF 50 (very fine) I am unable to track down a tap and die of that size, does anyone know were I might find a set, I would even consider a complete set that contains this size if there was no other alternative.

Peter Love ( Amateur Radio call G0KOK )

Hi all, once again thank you all for the replies I have had so far re the ER32 collet chuck, I can say definitely that the problem with the chuck initially not reaching the register was that the thread on my S7 had been cut slightly too short at the register end, this caused the thread in the chuck to reach its limit before hitting the register, so, removing a tad of the chuck thread fixed the problem perfectly.

I have picked up on John's post about a thread that referred to the tightening of the collet collar nut and how it might influence the collet position, I am after all now only looking for 2 thou', so, before I proceed with the chuck I have started to make I will unscrew the 4 jaw complete with the workpiece and give the problem collet chuck one last chance by giving it a damn good tightening and report back.

Kindest regards all, Peter.

I have added a couple of pictures of the chuck, you can just see the serrated mark where I removed about one thread for the chuck to hit the register.

Peter.

Hello Tony thanks for your reply just what I was hoping for someone to suggest something I may not have thought about, you may well be correct the set I have were about £130.00 from RDG, however, turning a collet to all points 360 deg’ makes no difference what I am thinking is the thread for the collar nut will not be in the centre of the tapers and therefore not be pulling down square to the tapers.

Hello someone may be able to pick the bones out of this.

Not wanting to buy a cheap Chinese ER32 collet chuck for my S7 I bought one from Luxembourg with postage about 85 Euro's, very disappointed it did not screw down to the register by about 2mm, after fixing the problem by boring the hole back a bit more the run out was 3 thou' on the body and the collet taper, ( My lathe I will add has a zero run out on the spindle) with the collet chuck screwed in place I retouched the the taper to a perfect zero and also the taper in the retaining collar nut, however, the chucks body is still running out and there is not much I can do about that, when a collet is fitted the run out is 2 thou' so I can only assume that the collet is being pulled by the non concentric body. Any thoughts would be welcome while I carry on producing my own and with any luck as it is being produced in place on the lathe should be perfect.

This is and old thread but here goes, I have a S7 that came with a buggered MT2 taper in the tail stock, it won't hold MT2 tails without slipping, I gave it a bash with an MT2 reamer but still no good, too many low points where it has been abused, I also have a ML7 almost complete, I note that the ML7 tailstock is hollow will it work with a draw bar I wonder so that I can use a Coventry die head without it moving. Peter.

Thank you all for the replies and advise re the indexer, my mill is an old Alpine MT3 I have had it for some years and it works very well, I have just acquired an Elliott progress No 1 bench mount pillar drill, I have a compound table waiting in the wings to use on it, so I will be able to use the indexer on either device, I wanted a good old English drill and found this one, the one feature I liked when hunting for the drill was the quill lock, the machine is in very good overall condition with no holes in the table, however, the 5 groove belt pulley on the quill is falling apart, the aluminium has degraded, I have lifted the pulley off the machine and although it could be reproduced in my workshop (I have S7 also) I am not sure I want to try, has anyone information for a spare part ?.

Peter.

Thanks Jason, I must have missed that article, I let my sub's lapse then found myself hunting the paper shops for the latest issue, I will reinstate my subscription, to be honest I felt a bit of a prat asking the question, retired Volkswagen engineer with a mill and a Myford S7 I should have figured that one out but was concerned I had missed something, hey ho.

Peter.

Hi all, on the Gloster tooling 5C indexer it has to be held down with clamps, if I cut slots one each side and use T bolts what difference would it make if any, I should say I have not yet bought one but will shortly.

Peter

Thank you all for the replies, a lot of interesting info' and advise, I have a box with about fifty various 1" threaded end mills and slots and a Clarkson Autolock type 'S' MT4 holder I can't use, my mill is an old Alpine MT3, I am in the process of making the second of my Harold Hall Myford super seven carriage stops, using a length of 20 mm steel that I have available, it would have been quicker with a larger cutter, no worries nearly there now I can then get back to the real job in hand of building the Malcom Stride Bobcat engine.

Peter Love

Most likely a very daft question but here goes, I have a MT3 mill, I also have a large collection of 1 inch mill bits and an MT4 holder for them, the steel on the MT4 as one would expect is pretty hard, however, on testing I can mark it with a file, is it possible to machine the MT4 holder down to MT3 as I have not seen an upside down converter ?.

Peter

Hi all, I am new to this forum, my question has by the looks of it been toughched on already.

Firstly I do subscribe to MEW but not ME, I buy that off the shelf as and when, however, that has caused a problem, I have cut ready the crankcase for the Malcom Stride Bobcat and Nemett engine and have all the issues of ME from the start of the project to No. issue 4443, the latter I have just recieved (4443) from My Hobby Store, still it says "to be continued", I can't seem to lay my hands on No. 4444, what was the concluding issue No. for the project ?.

Peter Love