Member postings for SteveI

Here is a list of all the postings SteveI has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Where to source 06, 08 I.C. internal threading lay down inserts
28/09/2017 19:12:30

Hi,

 

Murray -- you are right. I have not correctly defined what I am looking for I think I am getting the IC imperial sizing mixed up with the metric edge length. I want the inserts that are 06mm and 08mm along the edge.

 

Jason -- you have identified a source that sell singles! Thank you. They aren't half pricey though. Does anyone make inserts in these sizes apart from Carmex?

 

Never mind the inserts my workshop gremlin can hide the whole assembly; insert, insert tool holder, QCTP holder all in plane sight. And yes I'm over due a visit to the opticians.

 

Thanks

Steve

Edited for typos

Edited By SteveI on 28/09/2017 19:14:48

28/09/2017 18:20:00

Hi Emgee,

Thanks but I don't see any smaller than 11 I.C. on the rotagriponline website. I am specifically looking for 06 and 08 I.C. as 11 is too big for the intended purpose.

Thanks,

Steve

28/09/2017 11:35:13

Hi,

I am looking for 55° and 60° lay down inserts in the 06 and 08 I.C. sizes. I have found a source (carmex available on the big auction site amongst other sources) but these seem to all be full profile and I would need to get specific inserts for each TPI. Also they are in packs of 5 and I don't need that many and they are not inexpensive.

So I am wondering if there are any sources of partial profile 55° and 60° lay down inserts in 06 and 08 I.C. sizes? Also if there are any sources other than carmex for full profile inserts in these sizes?

Thanks,

Steve

Thread: Looking for a supplier of tool grinding wheels.
18/09/2017 19:33:54

I've also taken to buy CBN for HSS. I source ex USSR new old stock also via an auction site. Affordable and as far as I can tell top quality. I have one new old stock CBN Swiss made wheel and I can't tell any practical difference with that and the Soviet. My aluminium oxide wheels sit in the cupboard. I use diamond for carbide sourced via the usual hobby suppliers, and again I have one new old stock norton diamond wheel and I can't tell any practical difference with that and the hobby suppliers wares. They all work.

Only job is to turn up some bushes as they are metric bore.

Does anyone know which of diamond or CBN is theoretically better for stellite?

Steve

Thread: How can I keep a deeply drilled hole straight?
14/09/2017 22:58:37

At the risk of going a bit OTT for a hobby forum. As above but solid carbide tools are worth considering, and with respect to Andrew's posts and in particular the 4th point. I wonder if this is less certain when using a solid carbide reamer. I am increasingly of a mind that these are somewhat akin to a boring bar. Which means the accurate alignment of e.g. the tailstock would then be even more critical.

Steve

Thread: upgrading to a better lathe
11/09/2017 14:47:11

Larry,

 

Within that wide price range some people get an ex industrial machine rebuilt. I.e. bed ground, re-scrape, motors overhauled/rewound etc etc. Then you get industrial quality without the new price. Not cheap but not new prices either. Most beds have enough depth of hardening for at least 1 regrind possibly 2. Others do the rebuilds themselves (outside of perhaps bed grinding) and that is another area of the hobby alltogther. You get a fantastic machine at a fraction of the price but don't build many models in the mean time.

 

For the record I use the word "rebuild" carefully rather than "renovation". A rebuilt machine tool will meet or exceed the original builders tolerances and potentially include all the steps in a thorough renovation. A renovation could involve a through clean/paint job replacement of broken or worn items. No bed re-grind and no scraping.

 

Steve

Edited By SteveI on 11/09/2017 14:51:37

Thread: J A Radford; Improvements and Accessories For Your Lathe
08/09/2017 18:52:39

Was the relieving attachment written up in ME?

Steve

08/09/2017 12:37:38
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 08/09/2017 08:50:35:

Steve,

A laudable mission, if I may say so yes

Just one comment, to get the ball rolling: Your numbering presumably relates to the current edition of the book.

The Tee Publishing edition of 1998 actually has 20 Chapters: Its Chapter 19 is "Renovating a Myford Lathe" ... which covers the 'wide guide' conversion that he devised to mitigate the effects of bed wear.

MichaelG.

Thanks to all the comments so far.

Jason -- that MEM thread you linked to was the catalyst for my post.

Michael -- I did not include the myford mod as it is a lathe rebuild task and my interest lies with his designs and tooling solutions. However others may be interested. I'd like to edit the post to include Chapter 19 as the wide guide conversion and Chapter 20 as the snippets but cannot. Perhaps a moderator can assist?

The has been a recent thread about preserving LBSC designs by digitising them. My interests lie in 7.25" gauge and tooling, and I really really like these designs and can find very little online about them. Sometimes drawings for castings are not adequately dimension so I will have to take a proper look at them. Less of a problem for the pattern maker but perhaps a problem to draw it up.

I am very very keen to learn more about the relieving attachment in the snippets chapter it seems to be more flexible than the Eureka. I was thinking to make something based on 22mm shank cutters. Has anyone made one?

Are any of the originals tools whereabouts known?

Thanks,

steve

08/09/2017 08:19:12

Hi,

I recently saw a few projects based on J A Radford's designs. They seem to be extremely well thought out, if I may be so bold perhaps a "giant" of the hobby. Whilst GHT is rightly often referenced and I have his 2 books (and a UPT under construction) I haven't seen much on the forum about J A Radford.

I'm interested for interests sake to find out who offers what of the J A Radford legacy of designs in terms of castings etc and if there are any internet resources with examples of this tooling. From the (excellent book):

1. A milling attachment for the lathe
2. An indexing attachment for the headstock
3. Ball bearing cone centres
4. Gear cutting in the lathe
5. A spherical turning tool --- hemingway kits
6. A lathe slotting attachment
7. Elevating heads for the lathe
8. A quick change tool holder for the lathe and lathe tailstock
9. A Toolpost grinder
10. A tapping attachment for the lathe
11. A six position saddle stop for the lathe
12. A graduating tool for cylindrical, angular and flat surfaces - hemingway kits
13. A quick-change tool holder for the lathe
14. Stop bars and bushes for the lathe mandrels - Hemingway kits
15. An automatic facing and boring head
16. A Worm wheel hobbing attachment
17. An improved top slide - hemingway kits / GLR Kennions
18. A thread milling attachment for the lathe
19. Snippets -- Relieving attachment

Are there others?

Any and all information, projects and links to J A Radford designed tooling welcome, please educate me!

Thanks,

Steve

Thread: Ideal amateur lathe spindle nose?
06/09/2017 18:33:50

Thor,

It is not easy to explain. It is very very simple. The external taper is a 4° degree taper. (Actually it is 3° 59' 30'' which is locking.

There is a locking pin in the chuck/faceplate/collet closer. As you mate the tapers on the e.g. chuck to the spindle nose you rotate the chuck and the pin traverse up a cut out until at the end it stops further rotation. The chuck has to then get pushed more on to the taper (which it can't) for it to be able to work its way out again. I.e. the pin locks the chuck to the spindle nose. All drive is via the friction between the chuck and the spindle nose. The locking pin needs to not fail other wise disaster. To be honest it makes me a bit nervous with a 6" chuck mounted so I always tighten up the pin before turning on and check the pins are in excellent condition. However it has worked for more than 100 years.

To run in reverse the chuck would have to be rotated relative to the spindle nose so that it locks in the other direction. So you can't just change spindle rotation direction on the fly, and you can't stop a chuck instantly in case its momentum causes it to come free. I've been told this is why the "chuckers" which were more production orientated came standard with threaded nose and not taper nose.

One reason it is obsolete is that theoretically you can have a bit to much force which may cause movement once the cut goes on to deform/tighten the pin in as far as it will go. For an indexer in the mill this movement could ruin your part. This is why all the modern indexers use the threaded nose. Once that registers and is tightened it wont move more.

The internal taper of the spindle is for a 5C collet which is retained via a collet draw tube.

I am told in later years Hardinge offered a D1-3 spindle for the HLV-H. So that tells you something, but what is right for the amateur on a budget is not always what is right for industry.

Thanks,

Steve

06/09/2017 16:25:23

Neil/Jason, thanks for clearing that up I'd like to read up on that short parallel spigot design. Do you have any reference?

Thanks,

Steve

06/09/2017 10:20:38

Jason,

I was thinking about the "amateurs" workshop comments and putting this into context in that Niels is taking on a job at home whereas others may have used their wallet to solve the problem. So with that in mind he needs an affordable solution. I.e. able to use the same spindle tooling in the home workshop on the mill. Second hand the threaded nose indexers and dividing heads are cheaper than the taper, as are the step chuck closers and faceplates. The are also easier to make. New, cheap Asian origin indexers are only available in the threaded nose type. Also if he has deeper pockets the servo/stepper motor indexers are also all threaded nose.

Steve

06/09/2017 08:03:29
Posted by Thor on 06/09/2017 06:18:34:

Hi Niels,

Unfortunately I don't have a Hardinge lathe, but here is a photo of the pindle nose. Better photos here.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 06/09/2017 06:25:33

Those are photos of the No.5 4° taper nose, not the No. 5 threaded nose. They have over the years offered both types. I would not recommend to Niels to use that taper nose type at all.

I only suggested the No.5 threaded nose because it and chuck backplates are easy enough to make at home and it is very common on indexers, both old and cutting edge new. As I said a little bit like the original Boxford nose but approximately the right size for Niels planned spindle.

Steve

05/09/2017 23:23:01

Neil, are these flange designs not short taper and face like the camlock?

Nick, where do you source 30mm ER40 collets? The largest I've seen are 1-1/8" and 27mm and these are special oversized with reduce wall thickness and lower clamping, not that I need the max clamping force.

Steve

Thread: Multifix - Myford S7
05/09/2017 23:13:01

Hi,

Whilst I have not got a myford lathe I have seen a few in the flesh, including one running an Aa, and do run an A size on my lathe. I can tell you an A size is completely wrong for a S7. Much too big. It would not be optimal. The original manufacturar(s) sizes from smallest to large are Aa, A, E, B, C, D1, D2 etc. So you have 1 mainstream choice really Aa or choose a different type of QCTP. (I have heard a German company supplies a chinese made size in between Aa and A but I have no details and besides this would limit you to one supplier and again it may well be too big for the S7 anyhow.). I know a chap that switched to Tripan after deciding the Aa was too small and the A too big for a Schuablin 102, but tripan stopped production earlier this year and I don't know if anyone has started making copies.

The AaJ type with ID of Ø15mm is I agree a seemingly strange choice. For the AJ it is 30mm again a strange choice when it could have been 32mm. By the time you get to the EJ it is 40mm which is standard. Clive has described the original tooling which I have seen in A size and it is nice.

In practice the bore size doesn't matter. You would make a split sleeve or similar to match the size of your tool to the 15mm. I've found it to be a superior way of mounting boring and threading bars than the H type and if you use solid carbide bars it is recommend to hold them this way rather than with screws bearing down on them.

It would be a nice simple project to knock up a 6,8,10,12mm set of split sleeves for the Ø15mm holder . For my A size I've made more than a dozen sleeves from 30mm to 6,8,10,12,16,20,25mm and have a plan for a few more to cater for imperial sizes.

Steve

Thread: Ideal amateur lathe spindle nose?
05/09/2017 20:35:09

Niels,

 

Thanks for posting this interesting project. Now given your constraints and the scope being for the "ideal amateur lathe spindle nose" here are my thoughts:

 

Why have a big spindle and then ruin it with only ER40 collet nose? Why not go for ER50 (max 32mm) if you want ER? Having said that for the hobby user I am a big fan of the cheap 5C collets in round, hex, square and rectangular sizes.

 

I always think its best to use a standard spindle where you can as there is always great tooling about. If you can do it I would go for a D1-3 camlock and bore for MT4.5 and if you can, go for MT5. MT4.5 so you can use a reduction bush and MT3 centers and 5C collets as that is the smallest Morse taper with enough space for a 5C. 5C are cheap and are very nice to use with a draw tube. Now I know that the taper and face is non trivial to get right and in addition making the backplates for it is also not trivial and there are no D1-3 native dividing heads, indexers or rotary tables.

 

One of the advantages to the amateur is to use the same spindle tooling on an indexer, dividing head etc as you do on the lathe. So how about the Hardinge 2 3/16-10 threaded nose with an internal bore for 5C collets? Easy enough to machine yourself and also to make or source backplates. The specs are "published" and the perfect gauge available via commercial tooling. Every type of spindle tooling is available and it is still in production and lots of it is available second hand. It is robust enough to put a 6" 3 or 6 jaw chuck on it. You can put 30mm bar up the spindle. The only downside is running in reverse and I do not know how common it was in Denmark. Not unlike the original boxford nose but on steroids.

 

Good luck with the project.

 

Steve

 

 

 

Edited By SteveI on 05/09/2017 20:39:40

Thread: Help with this milling tool holder
05/09/2017 07:28:47

Hi,

I think it is probably the case you can easily find tooling, my initial guess is its BT30. However it would be nice to get a picture with a different angle as I can not make out the drive dog cut outs, or the profile of the area which the tool changer clamps on and off. If you have the tool to hand and do a web search you can check the basic dimensions to be 100%.

 

SK -- roughly translates as Short Taper which is a European description for the self releasing milling machine spindle taper standard that we know as NMTB (National Machine Tool Builders) taper family. Basically it is a 24/7 taper defined in the USA in the 1920's.

 

The number 30 denotes the size of the tooling. There are various standards and 30 40 and 50 are the most common. 30 is very common and getting 30 taper tooling in all its variations is not a problem. 40 taper seems to be the cheapest new as I suspect it is the most commonly made these days.

 

There are many variations of this basic 24/7 taper tooling and you need to get the correct variation to ensure compatibility. In your picture the tool has a pull stud which is common in CNC machines for tool retention in the spindle and the flange is suited to a tool changer carousel so from that we can infer it is probably either BT30 or CAT30. BT is common in Europe and is defined using metric, i.e. the thread for the pull stud is M12 on BT30 metric.BT30 spindles have symmetric drive dog arrangement so the cut outs in the tool flange are symmetric.

 

http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Tapers.html

 

Good luck

Steve

 

EDIT Jason beat me to it.

Edited By SteveI on 05/09/2017 07:29:53

Edited By SteveI on 05/09/2017 07:40:11

Thread: Something exciting on its way...
30/08/2017 11:42:30

Neil,

If this is related to MEW then why not place updates here? Not everyone wants to be on twitter/facebook/etc etc.

Steve

Thread: UK or chinese source for ER20 collet nut "hook/c" spanner
29/08/2017 22:27:22

Arthur,

Thanks for the offer. Perhaps someone else is more deserving.

Steve

29/08/2017 12:56:49
Posted by Iain Downs on 29/08/2017 07:44:10:

I also made my own which just requires a decent piece of bar and some basic skills.

 

Iain

You forgot the other requirement, the one which is my major constraint; time. I have limited workshop time and I prefer to spend it doing something interesting. Making a spanner which I can get delivered for less than £6 is not high up my projects list. My order is placed.

 

Edited By SteveI on 29/08/2017 12:57:19

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