Member postings for wavering

Hi I have been sitting back and watching this one, looking at the pics the 2 large bits of kit in what would look like a old school workshop, would also say that they are 3 phase. why the travel steady lying on the floor.

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How come people own Audi's and can't drive ?

How come people answer questions on this forum and can't sort thier own problems out ?

Answers on the back of a £20 note please.

John S.

Posted by David Littlewood on 15/08/2012 20:00:38:

Two things that haven't been mentioned are the type of tool you are using and the depth of cut.

If you face off the end of a bar do you get a pip left in the centre - if so your tool is set low - the diameter of the pip being twice the distance that your tool is below centre.

Hi Bob, If you need a handbook/partslist go to www.lathes.co.uk. Tony has quite a bit of info onsite and sells a handbook for the L5.

Thank you - it seems I do have an L5

It sounds to me like you are cutting below centre and light cuts.

Yes, I did mention that I added a shim and now is dead centre. Yes, re light cuts, I assumed that a light cut would give a better finish?! Presumably the answer to that is "no"

The age shouldn't be a problem I started with a lathe about 100 years old. If it's knackered you can fix it/get round it.

OK

Try rubbing the cutting edge across the back of your fingernail. If it won't produce fine shavings sharpen it.

Pased that test

Make sure there isn't any play in the headstock bearings they should be tight enough so that without the drive connected if you spin the chuck by hand it won't do more than one or two revolutions before stopping.

Feels OK on that test too

Make sure the gibs are tight enough.

Er ... waht are gibs?

Is there any possibility of the tool movine in the toolpost or vibrating?

No but I think the tool was too low - have added a shim and now a bit better

Keep the tool tip as close to the toolpost as you can.

Noted

Does the lathe vibrate much when in drive?

No, it is fine