Member postings for Michael Foden

Despite searching the internet, including eBay, I cannot find 5 & 7 BA small ring spanners.

I have most other sizes. Can anyone point me in the right direction ? Thanks.

Mike.

Thanks for the information -much appreciated.

Mike.

This must seem like a stupid question, but how do I get oil into the cylinder of a small stationary engine,

It will not be run on steam, but the only way In is by removing a cylinder cover, & this can't be right. There are oil grooves in the piston, - does the cylinder retain the oil that is first added or does it need a top up occasionally ?

Any advice will be appreciated. I hope to run it on compressed air.

Many thanks

Mike.

I have several images of completed work both on Flickr, & in my picture folders, but cannot work out how to upload them to the Forum.

I'm sure there must be an easy solution.

Many thanks,

Mike.

I want to run a Stuart S50 on compressed air, but only want a small, quiet compressor, as it will be kept in the house. It will be run at very low speeds, & with no load.

If the engine runs freely when turned by hand, will an aquarium pump give sufficient power, - there is a full Stuart Beam on youTube being operated by this method.

If so, what power of compressor will I need to give 10-20 PSI, as aquarium pumps are rated in litres per hour ?

Any help will be appreciated.

Mike.

Jaws are in the correct slots, & each is marked with same number, but I've no way of telling that these are the jaws that belong to the chuck as there is no ref. number on the chuck body.

Jaws & screws are, of course hardened, but chuck body is not. There are 10 mating surfaces between each jaw & chuck body, so 40 closely machined surfaces have to match to close tolerances. Jaws & screws have been tried separately -sometimes I can slide jaws to & fro without much effort, & if screws are removed these will also tighten up about 3/4 of the way. Jaws have been tried both ways around with similar results.

Finally, there is no evidence of swarf, & everything has been given a good brushing out with a stiff, new round glue brush & plenty of WD40.

Thanks for all comments & suggestions - I'll just keep persevering.

Mike.

I recently got a S/H 4 jaw independent chuck on eBay. It was only £50+, & the only wording on it is 'The Burnerd made in England'. Diam. is 4.5"& it runs perfectly on the ML10 & has no signs of abuse or wear. The screws for the jaws are not captive. The problem is that even after some 10 hours work, I have only managed to make one jaw move to my satisfaction. The remainder start OK, but about half way into the travel they start to seize up. All jaws & screws have been removed & files, diamond files & coarse grinding paste don't seem to solve the problem. Sometimes I remove the screws & work jaws by hand to bed them in, but on replacing jaws & screws,I'm getting tight spots & then near the end of the travel, they are jamming up. Am I expecting too much from an (approx 50 yr old chuck)?. I have a 3 jaw PB bought from new with the lathe( S/C), which is as good as when purchased 30 yrs ago.

Any advice welcome,

Mike.

Thanks, Jason. There is a centre hole at the end of each tap, but I did not think that this method would be accurate enough. I sure did not do it this way a few years ago.

Anyway, thanks for the advice, I'll try it out on some spare material first.

Mike.

Some years ago I made some brass chucks for my woodturning lathe, the spindle size being 3/4" x 16 tpi (unf).

I now wish to use the taps & matching die for another purpose but need to ensure complete accuracy. I have the die holder which is on a # 2 M.T., but can't figure out how I managed to use the taps in my ML 10 tailstock, as they will not fit my drill chucks, & I didn't have any larger chucks when completing the original work.

Apart from the massive tap wrenches (15" long ), there does not appear to be anything on the market to suit this size of tap ( 11mm AF ).

Any suggestions would be welcome. Many thanks.

Mike.

Thanks everyone- comments & advice much appreciated. Also gives me food for thought !

Regards

Mike.

Can I please have some suggestions on the above. I do not intend to do any heavy work & the set up chosen will only be used for a couple of hours every few days.

Many thanks

Mike.

Thanks to all for replies. I did contemplate returning it, but it was not boxed & I was unsure about safe packaging.

I understand it came from the Myford stores, but was dispatched by RDG ( Myford being their sister company ). Incidentally it is Polish & has threaded body, so is only 42mm thick. However the HBM chuck, although slightly larger, has same specs.

Mike.

Just bought a Toolmex independent 4 jaw from Myford. I was tempted to go for the HBM chuck from RDG tools. But decided on Myford even though it was double the price of the HBM.

I have owned & used many chucks over the past 25 yrs.- 3 jaw S.C. 4 jaw S.C. and a 4 jaw independent which I sold many years ago.

The chuck runs fine on the ML10, but I have so far spent almost 3 hours trying to move the jaws. They are gradually becoming easier after much filing of the jaw ways & the jaws themselves. But then I have to reverse them & bed them in again.

I can't recall these problems with my previous 4 jaw independent.

I know that Myford is famous for working to close tolerances, but is this normal ?

Any assistance will be appreciated.

Mike.

P.S.  I did post this under workshop tools & tooling, but it seems to have migrated of its own accord.

Edited By Michael Foden on 30/11/2012 20:10:29

If you're not going to use your credit card on the Internet, what are you going to use it for ?

Each time you use it in a store , restaurant etc. they have all your details. I've used mine on the 'Net for 15 years, & have had no problems whatsoever. My purchases run into many hundreds of items.

Mike.

Think I may be on track to answering my parting problems.

For years I've used an inserted Eclipse HSS blade in a very sturdy rear toolpost, & this has coped with non ferrous very well, even though blade is 1.5mm thick.

I have now actually measured my 12mm parting tool at the tip, & find it is 4.5mm thick at the cutting edge, not 3mm as mentioned in previous post.

So I've concluded, rightly or wrongly, that one blade is too thin & one too thick. Have ordered a Glanze carbide indexable tipped tool with a 2mm thickness. This is supported underneath , so I am hoping for good results.

Watch this space.

Mike.

I bought some phos. Bronze many years ago, (the Rolls Royce of bronzes ), & as far as I can recall it behaved no differently than brass. I did not have anything better than HSS tools in those days.

Maybe there are different grades of it, but I am no expert in these matters.

Mike.

Hi Russell

My lathe is a Myford ML10 in first class working order. As noted in my original post, I suspect that a 1/16" thick blade will not tackle larger diam. mild steel.

I note that the Glanze type tools will operate from the front, & the advange with the design, as far as I can see, is that the blade is supported from underneath whilst cutting. This is not the case with the inserted blade tool which I have been using - OK for brass & alloys, but not for steel.

But, since posting, I have also tried a 12mm sq, parting tool ,tip about 3mm wide( used from the front of the lathe ), could be HSS or carbide, I'm unsure. It is razor sharp, & cut beautifully when a portion of the tip was in use, but started to chatter when the full 3mm made contact. This leads me to suspect that the problems maybe with the mounting of the work.

Mike.

Thanks to all for replies. Obviously some of these tools are beyond my price range, but the answers give me something to ponder.

I did do a search on this forum for parting tools, but nothing came to light.

Mike.

P.S. Have sent P.M. to Versaboss as I have some Magnesium.

Edited By Michael Foden on 16/08/2012 13:20:38

Can someone recommend a reasonably priced indexable parting tool ( £20 -£25 ) that will tackle 1.5" diam mild steel without problems.

In the past I have used a rear toolpost with 1/16" x1/2" blade inserted in a holder (Eclipse ). There have been no problems with brass or Magnesium, but these are the only metals I have worked .

However, with the mild steel, It very quickly starts to chatter, no doubt due to the blade flexing, even though there is minimal blade projection.

I have been looking at Glanze (from Chronos ), & a similar tool from RDG ( make unknown )- both within this price range. Tool will be for ML10.

Thanks

Mike.

Did I say 5 parts ? It's in 10 parts averaging 4 pages to each part.

Has anyone got some spare printer cartridges?