Member postings for sparky mike

I have bought a Myford lathe which looks much like an ML4 but has V pulleys, not flat belt pulleys. Were the ML4 lathes modified late in production to take a V belt, or would this lathe be another model? The motor and stepped pulleys are on a seperate framework at the rear of the lathe which looks to be original.

Mike.

If there are valves, there will probably be a transformer in the box. It could be that, or one of the valves could have developed a short. What are on the valves re. numbers or letters?

How do I locate all my old messages now that the site has changed. I can't access my own profile either?

Any clues?

Mike.

Hi Dave, thanks for your reply, I had thought that the dial indicator would not be needed when the gearbox was used, hence the interest in Gray's reversing attatchment ? However, if that device is engaged constantly, would that cause the same amount of wear that you mention with my trial efforts?

Mike.

Well after a year of trials and tribulations, I have finally got the gearbox fitted to the lathe and better still, it works. Many thanks for all the help on this matter especially Dennis, who provided me with a great deal of help and some parts as well.

Now I would like to get proficient in the art of screw-cutting, but there is not much information on how to use the gearbox in the Myford gearbox manual.

Am I correct in the following. Select thread pitch to be cut on gearbox and then engage drive. Retract tool at end of pass and stop motor. Reverse motor and go back to start of thread. Revert to forward drive on motor and increase depth of cut, etc etc. I am assuming that if I reverse the gearbox on the tumbler gears I could perhaps be out of sync. with the thread cutting, or am I incorrect in that respect?

Mike.

Do any companies in the UK supply imperial threading inserts to fit the Glanze holders ?

Mike.

The rubber mixture for casting is probably the best idea although the 8 minutes curing time is a bit daunting as I have around 30 of these buffers to make. Many years ago I used to make plaster moulds for moulding plastic in so have some experience in that field. I would think that the best method of pouring the mixture in would be from the mushroom end so that the stem gets filled first.

There is an alternative material on the market, Sikoflex, which is in a tube that you can fit in the normal DIY glue gun dispensers. It is a very tough material and sets like rubber and is available in black and white to my knowledge and probably other colours. I would not need to turn up a pattern as I have a few of the original buffers that have no wear, so one of them could be used. (or more, so I could make a mould that would do several at a time).

A two part mould would I think be used, unless I just drilled a block of a suitable material to the same profile as the mushroom and then shape the head later in the lathe.

My minds working overtime now !! So many options which way to go !!

MIke.

I have a Dremel drill so will probably go down that road for starters and try grinding it first. It is semi hard rubber so I can probably hold the mushroom shaped head in the lathe and then grind the stem. I have 10 to play with and can get more, so will see how we go !! The buffer is for a classic car I am restoring and the bonnet rests on the buffers.. I could of course just drill out the fixing holes in the car, but as these are all in painted parts , I will not be doing that and will keep to originality.

.

Thanks for all the tips,

MIke.

I did try freezing rubber on another job but it did not seem to make any difference to the rubber hardness. What temperature should it be frozen at and for how long? Can a domestic fridge be used?

Mike.

The job in question is a small quantity of mushroom shaped rubber buffers. At the moment the stem of the buffer is around 8mm, and I wish to reduce it to 6mm. I had considered if a hole punch of the type used for making holes in leather / gaskets etc. could be placed in a vice with the buffer and then the vice tightened to pare away the unwanted excess. It might help if the punch is heated up somewhat ?

I am open to any sugestions.

MIke.

Hi Does anyone out there know how to machine rubber.

Can it be turned in any way on a lathe?

Mike.

Edited By sparky mike on 14/06/2013 17:27:37

I have now found that one of the jaws can be fully tightened without the scroll locking up ,so seems like the other two jaws will have to be hand scraped on the flat side of the milled rebate.

Cigarette paper is a good idea also Chris.

Hi Chris,

It seems to me that the milled slot in the jaws needs to be a fraction deeper, or perhaps it has minute burrs on it. I will have to examine it closer.

Re. the picture, I realised after I posted that it needed to be smaller in size, but when I tried to delete it and replace with smaller one I could not seem to fix it.

Any tips here welcome.

Mike.

Hi,

I have a Bernerd 60mm chuck which is used on a watchmakers lathe. If the three screws that hold the jaws in place, are fully tightened the chuck adjustment, which is done by a knurled ring locks up. Should these screws be left a fraction loose, or should the jaws be stoned to prevent the above happening.?

Original Bernerd instructions would be handy if anyone had them.

Edited By sparky mike on 25/04/2013 20:32:56

Thanks for all the input.

I did try a Sumitomo tool and tip some time ago and found it was very good, so may well settle for those. Seems to be a lack of suppliers in UK, but I do have a good friend in Japan who could cut out the middle man. I will have to email him re prices..

Mike.

I would like to know other lathe owners their comments for or against Glanze

replaceable tip lathe tools.

Mike.

Hi Kwil,

Did a search but could not find the article . Any idea of the heading to put in the search box?

Mike.

As a matter of interest, could the angular contact bearings (ball type) be substituted for Timken taper bearings (taper roller type.) on the Super 7 ? Are there pros and cons for or against this.

The Timken tapers would I assume have more drag than the ball type.

Mike.

Edited By sparky mike on 29/03/2013 15:16:34

Hi Eddy,

I think I found your grey Myford lathe on Ebay. (very nice too.) The photo of the gears is nice and sharp and is a great help. I was thinking I needed a third intermediate gear, but now it looks like I can buy a few beers instead !!

Many thanks for all replies so far.

Mike.

Edited By sparky mike on 03/03/2013 16:46:26

Hi John,

On my gearbox, being the early type ,what takes the drive from the reverse tumbler gears on the headstock to the gearbox external gears? I would assume that there is a gear located on a keyway which locks on to one of the 19/57 T gears.? Or does it just mate with the first gear on the quick change gearbox quadrant. If anyone could post a photo showing the correct set-up it would be a great help. (or PM me for my email address.) I have obtained the with the 12 T / 30T slow feed gear so things are progressing.