Member postings for mickypee

Autosmart "Extra Hands" brilliant at removing grime and doesn't dry your skin. Buy it in 5 litre containers, lasts for ages.

Mike

I have a an M300 and would love to have a clutch on it but I haven't seen the article you refer to. Would it be suitable for my lathe? Could you send a link to the drawings?

Mike

I have the larger brother of your Axminster drill you suggested and it is a lovely bit of kit. Bigger is always better for rigidity and therefore accuracy. I also agree with Bob that a mill can be better still. I probably use my Bridgeport more than the drill but nevertheless I wouldn't be without the Axminster. I think the speed range is perhaps less important on a drilling machine and I rarely change the speed on mine, but the option of course is always there.

Mike

Great idea David, count me in.

Thanks

Mike

Ian SC, When you say Kerosene, do you think I could Jet A1 aviation fuel?

Amazing what folks know on this forum.

Interesting title, the magazine is of course "Model Engineer's Workshop". What about articles that affect/concern us all, that is our workshops. Why not have constructional articles on building our little havens perhaps in brick, wood etc. Damp proofing and insulating, electrics and wiring up, 3ph and 1ph protocol. What about subjects such as types of cabinets, benches, perhaps vices, grinders, drilling machines. Thats before we get on to all the machine tools that we all cherish. An earlier post suggests articles on Bridgeports, great idea as many folk own such a machine, perhaps mods and maintainance of the beast.

Then coming more up to date, installing cap5 cabling for internet, routers for our computers and all the vast programs that are available for our hobby. Even the modest Iphone/Ipad had an enormous amount of Apps that we can all benefit from but perhaps an article on them as they become available. For sure the interest we have has been transformed with modern technology and it is available for all to enjoy.

There are so many exciting articles that can be written that we would all enjoy, not the same old ones that keep appearing.

I'll compose something to get us all started.

Mike

I have had a BP in my home workshop for a few years and I wouldn't look at another machine as long as you have the space. It is very versatile and acurate and most jobs can be done with ease. Mine is a 3PH model and I have installed 3PH from the road down the drive to the workshop, all done at reasonable cost. A much better idea than inverter but obviously not for everyone if cost is an issue.

All the spares can be obtained and like the previous poster suggested it is important to get as good a machine as you can. If the one you are getting is from a racing business, the chances are it's in good condition, but it all can be repaired/upgraded as you go.

I don't think you will regret buying one, certainly the ultimate for home use.

Email me if you need any help.

Mike

Thank you for your kind comments, glad you enjoyed it. A few interesting projects coming up over the next few months.

Mike

You should look on my website, you will see many types of finishes and paint work. To be honest the process is so cheap it probably not worth the investment in either the media or the cabinets/compressor etc. For the jobs you are doing perhaps £5 at the most. You can email me directly throught the site, on my profile.

Glad to help if I can.

Mike

Ramon,

You are correct, the media used is Bi Carb of Soda. It comes in many grades and the finish can be as perfect as you want. A coarse grade would be better for a rough surface to accept a painted finish whereas a fine media for a metal component that is seff coloured. If using it over a chilled iron or glass media tha best advantage is the part can be washed in a hot tank and the soda desolves leaving a perfect part ready for assembly. Sometimes trying to get the grit out can be a tricky process and always a small risk that a small piece of media ends up on a bearing surface and causes damage. Recently I soda blasted a TVR front crankcase casting which has the oil pump included in it. In the past I have blanked and masked the openings to stop the ingress of glass madia as they get vapour blasted but with soda, no masking is necessary and the finish is better than new.

Here are a couple of shots of a 92 Fireblade I am doing, the finish is amazing. And it's dead cheap!!

Mike

Why not have the crankcase soda blasted? I do this on most of the engine builds I do including cylinder heads. Leaves a beautiful vapour blasted finish, all corrosion is removed and it just hot tank washes away leaving a perfect casting ready for painting or assembly.

Can help if you want me to.

mike

Harrison M300, you will never look back.

Tri-ard.co.uk

Ask for Craig. I use them for every fastener and I use a lot. Brilliant company, they will obtain them for you.

Cheers

Mike

Just a thought but if you are going to the trouble to restore your machine to the level you sugest, then why not replate the hand wheels and associated parts. I bought a set of new hand wheels for my Bridgeport as they were damaged when I got the machine. When the new ones arrived they were untreated steel. With the moisture in the air and on your hands, I expected to all these parts to corrode in no time. So I had everything bright nickel plated. The result is lovely and here we are two years later and they are still good as new. It's not very expensive and most chrome platers will offer nickel as an option. The other plus with nickel over chrome is that the plating gets into all the corners which can be a problem sometime with chrome.

Well worth the effort.

I take your point Steve, mine too is a home work shop.

I would be interested in a 3-3 inverter with variable speed etc. Would you have a link so I could look at one?

This is my first posting on this forum and I am delighted with all your help, thank you. I had a look on the RS link which is exactly the thing I'm looking for. There is even an identical light to the one fitted to my Bridgeport, so I might buy one for that as well. All at much more reasonable prices.

Ian SC, the fasteners are all cosmetic rather than anything internal or stress loaded, makes an enormous difference to the overall appearance of the machine. I have ordered a piece of stainless sheet to go on the cabinet tray under the bed so when cleaning away the swarf it doesn't take all the paint with it. I'll need to cut around the mounting points of the bed to the cabinet so as not to disturb the accuracy of the machine. I shall seal it with Sikoflex so any oil or swarf doesn't work it's way underneath.

With regard to the 240V light, what about a transformer 415V to 240V instead of the low volts one fitted? Or would it be better with a low volt bulb? Can't see that it would be a problem, but welcome your input.

Mickypee

Edited By mickypee on 16/06/2012 15:50:49

I have a lovely M300 lathe that I purchased a short while ago. It's a 3ph model and I have gradually been making it as near perfect as I can. I came from a colleage and has had very little use, so no wear on the bed at all. However, It had suffered damage to handles etc which I have replaced or repaired.

I have just finished replacing most of the fasteners with new stainless items and want to replace the work light as the final thing to do. I spoke to Harrison and they want £214+VAT which is £257. Now I don't mind digging in my pocket but this is extortionate for what is no more than an anglepoise light. I then thought that it is unlikely they make the light and it will be a third part manufacturer.

Does anyone know the name of the manufacturer or where I could get on from at a reasonable price?

I also have a Myford ML7 but It's fair to say that I don't know how I managed with the smaller lathe all these years. A fabulous bit of kit.